Martz Chassis C1 front suspension
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Howdy Bob...
Sounds like you've got a handle on it...good to hear you are making headway. I'm with you...I'd bet it'll definitely be better than before, even if it isn't just perfect. From what I can tell they wern't perfect, fresh off the assembly line.....
Good luck...
Stan...
Sounds like you've got a handle on it...good to hear you are making headway. I'm with you...I'd bet it'll definitely be better than before, even if it isn't just perfect. From what I can tell they wern't perfect, fresh off the assembly line.....
Good luck...
Stan...
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I will be calling Martz today about this issue to see if they made any improvements in the location of the holes. I ll let you know what they say. If i have to do some nip and tucking i will also keep you updated on what i do to "make it fit"
So much for the "bolt in" aspect of it right ?
Joe
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Joe
how is your installation going?
Bill
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TTT,
Any status updates or pictures of fitting the crossmember to your frame. Anybody else taken the plunge for the Martz front suspension??
Any status updates or pictures of fitting the crossmember to your frame. Anybody else taken the plunge for the Martz front suspension??
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More driving experiences?
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Ok, so this is where I am at this point. The suspension is painted and bolted on with new grade 8 hardware. I also cleaned up the frame and painted it. I don't know how it is going to function but it looks really cool! Now all I have to do is install the new master cylinder, run new brake lines, put the engine together and install it, purchase a new steering column and install it, and I'm ready to cruise. The fact that I don't really know what I am doing makes things go pretty slowly but I am somewhat encouraged by the fact that I am finally into the "putting back together" phase. This has been a real learning experience for me and will continue to be. Up until now this hasn't really been too complicated once I quit stressing about the fact that it wasn't quite a straight "bolt on" deal. I bought a die grinder and a carbide bit and got the holes lined up fairly easily. I'm glad that I joined this forum because there is so much knowledge and experience here. I am doing all this by myself but I am encouraged by the support that I get here.
I will try to email a picture to Bill (wmf62) and maybe he can post it.
Bob
I will try to email a picture to Bill (wmf62) and maybe he can post it.
Bob
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Ok, so this is where I am at this point. The suspension is painted and bolted on with new grade 8 hardware. I also cleaned up the frame and painted it. I don't know how it is going to function but it looks really cool! Now all I have to do is install the new master cylinder, run new brake lines, put the engine together and install it, purchase a new steering column and install it, and I'm ready to cruise. The fact that I don't really know what I am doing makes things go pretty slowly but I am somewhat encouraged by the fact that I am finally into the "putting back together" phase. This has been a real learning experience for me and will continue to be. Up until now this hasn't really been too complicated once I quit stressing about the fact that it wasn't quite a straight "bolt on" deal. I bought a die grinder and a carbide bit and got the holes lined up fairly easily. I'm glad that I joined this forum because there is so much knowledge and experience here. I am doing all this by myself but I am encouraged by the support that I get here.
I will try to email a picture to Bill (wmf62) and maybe he can post it.
Bob
I will try to email a picture to Bill (wmf62) and maybe he can post it.
Bob
Looking at the picture that wmf62 posted of your front end, I was trying to figure out how Camber and Caster are adjusted. Can you explain how they are adjusted? I see what appears to may be an adjusting cam bolt at the upper inner "A" frame bushing? If so, I assume there is another on the rear of the upper "A" frame as well?
Also, the wheel studs look a little longer than "normal". Are these standard? They may be an illision from the angle the picture was taken. And have you confirmed they Chevy 4-3/4" bolt pattern?
Thanks.
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; 10-07-2007 at 09:46 AM.
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Wheel studs do look awful long. So, what are the large hex fitting, are they threaded into the end of the a-arm tubes?? Is there adjustment there also, if not, how do those get tightened, some appear to be tight against the tube, others may not be?
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Bob,
Looking at the picture that wmf62 posted of your front end, I was trying to figure out how Camber and Caster are adjusted. Can you explain how they are adjusted? I see what appears to may be an adjusting cam bolt at the upper inner "A" frame bushing? If so, I assume there is another on the rear of the upper "A" frame as well?
Also, the wheel studs look a little longer than "normal". Are these standard? They may be an illision from the angle the picture was taken. And have you confirmed they Chevy 4-3/4" bolt pattern?
Thanks.
Plasticman
Looking at the picture that wmf62 posted of your front end, I was trying to figure out how Camber and Caster are adjusted. Can you explain how they are adjusted? I see what appears to may be an adjusting cam bolt at the upper inner "A" frame bushing? If so, I assume there is another on the rear of the upper "A" frame as well?
Also, the wheel studs look a little longer than "normal". Are these standard? They may be an illision from the angle the picture was taken. And have you confirmed they Chevy 4-3/4" bolt pattern?
Thanks.
Plasticman
Bill already answered your adjustment question and yes the studs were swapped out of my old brake drums because the Centerline wheels currently on the car take the long studs. I bolted the front wheels on and the pattern appears correct. I set the a arm adjustments about center until I can get it aligned.
Bob
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Hello,
Just found the forum a couple days ago and am the newbie so will try and make this as short as possible.First just want to say thanks for all the info I got my 62 Jan.07 after a few years trying to buy it and because it will see Cecil County Dragway Friday night shootouts and special meet bracket races as well as street duty the brakes were first priority,after delving under the C1 it became apparent the complete R&P kit is the only way to go for me.Stan has been reading my mind for the last 9 months with his questions and Bill,Plasticman,and all the rest have been feeding my brain and still havn't short circuited my brain(yet) but close.I was close to being the guinea pig on the Mac as I don't see a problem with retro fitting the sway bar it's pretty straight forward,and I have lots of frame experience but the bulk being with Chevelles and none with Corvettes but math and geometery applied correctly are the same.So the only thing stopping me is the drilled Grenada rotors in favor of going to the Meyers and the Camaro rotors.I am currently in Albania but returning to the States on the 13th of this month ready to take the plunge.Any advice is greatly appreciated even if it is leave us alone new guy, because I have learned so much in the past few days reading this thread I am light years ahead of where I was a week ago.
Sincerely,
Duff
Just found the forum a couple days ago and am the newbie so will try and make this as short as possible.First just want to say thanks for all the info I got my 62 Jan.07 after a few years trying to buy it and because it will see Cecil County Dragway Friday night shootouts and special meet bracket races as well as street duty the brakes were first priority,after delving under the C1 it became apparent the complete R&P kit is the only way to go for me.Stan has been reading my mind for the last 9 months with his questions and Bill,Plasticman,and all the rest have been feeding my brain and still havn't short circuited my brain(yet) but close.I was close to being the guinea pig on the Mac as I don't see a problem with retro fitting the sway bar it's pretty straight forward,and I have lots of frame experience but the bulk being with Chevelles and none with Corvettes but math and geometery applied correctly are the same.So the only thing stopping me is the drilled Grenada rotors in favor of going to the Meyers and the Camaro rotors.I am currently in Albania but returning to the States on the 13th of this month ready to take the plunge.Any advice is greatly appreciated even if it is leave us alone new guy, because I have learned so much in the past few days reading this thread I am light years ahead of where I was a week ago.
Sincerely,
Duff
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Hello,
Just found the forum a couple days ago and am the newbie so will try and make this as short as possible.First just want to say thanks for all the info I got my 62 Jan.07 after a few years trying to buy it and because it will see Cecil County Dragway Friday night shootouts and special meet bracket races as well as street duty the brakes were first priority,after delving under the C1 it became apparent the complete R&P kit is the only way to go for me.Stan has been reading my mind for the last 9 months with his questions and Bill,Plasticman,and all the rest have been feeding my brain and still havn't short circuited my brain(yet) but close.I was close to being the guinea pig on the Mac as I don't see a problem with retro fitting the sway bar it's pretty straight forward,and I have lots of frame experience but the bulk being with Chevelles and none with Corvettes but math and geometery applied correctly are the same.So the only thing stopping me is the drilled Grenada rotors in favor of going to the Meyers and the Camaro rotors.I am currently in Albania but returning to the States on the 13th of this month ready to take the plunge.Any advice is greatly appreciated even if it is leave us alone new guy, because I have learned so much in the past few days reading this thread I am light years ahead of where I was a week ago.
Sincerely,
Duff
Just found the forum a couple days ago and am the newbie so will try and make this as short as possible.First just want to say thanks for all the info I got my 62 Jan.07 after a few years trying to buy it and because it will see Cecil County Dragway Friday night shootouts and special meet bracket races as well as street duty the brakes were first priority,after delving under the C1 it became apparent the complete R&P kit is the only way to go for me.Stan has been reading my mind for the last 9 months with his questions and Bill,Plasticman,and all the rest have been feeding my brain and still havn't short circuited my brain(yet) but close.I was close to being the guinea pig on the Mac as I don't see a problem with retro fitting the sway bar it's pretty straight forward,and I have lots of frame experience but the bulk being with Chevelles and none with Corvettes but math and geometery applied correctly are the same.So the only thing stopping me is the drilled Grenada rotors in favor of going to the Meyers and the Camaro rotors.I am currently in Albania but returning to the States on the 13th of this month ready to take the plunge.Any advice is greatly appreciated even if it is leave us alone new guy, because I have learned so much in the past few days reading this thread I am light years ahead of where I was a week ago.
Sincerely,
Duff
welcome to the fray...
i can only say that i 'guess' that my rotors are Granada rotor as i ordered the 11" brakes rather than the standard ones. the whole spindle assembly came fully assembled in a box. just had to paint it and put it on.....
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i don't have the foggiest idea of what Martz, Mac or Meyer provide or whether they are preassembled. but i am satisfied with how mine work (i also have rear discs...). the biggest thing i was unhappy with about the TCI IFS was the front track width, and i solved that with wheel spacers.
Bill
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i don't have the foggiest idea of what Meyer provide or whether they are preassembled. but i am satisfied with how mine work (i also have rear discs...). the biggest thing i was unhappy with about the TCI IFS was the front track width, and i solved that with wheel spacers.
Bill
Bill
Herb