Spun a wheel bearing.
#1
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I spun a wheel bearing yesterday about 100 miles from home. Rode home in a flatbed.
Thank you AAA!
I dismantled what I could, and the outer race is welded to the spindle.
So now it looks like it's time to replace it. I suppose "while I'm at it" I can replace ball joints and bushings too. Anyone have any recommendations as far as vendors for a spindle and a suspension rebuild kit?
Thanks
Gerry
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I dismantled what I could, and the outer race is welded to the spindle.
So now it looks like it's time to replace it. I suppose "while I'm at it" I can replace ball joints and bushings too. Anyone have any recommendations as far as vendors for a spindle and a suspension rebuild kit?
Thanks
Gerry
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Gerry, plenty of good used spindles around if you need one. Rebuild kits will vary greatly depending on how original you want the Ball Joints to look.
Just curious, when was the last time your spun front bearing was serviced prior to this event??
Pilot Dan
Just curious, when was the last time your spun front bearing was serviced prior to this event??
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Sorry, the inner race of the outer bearing is welded to the spindle.
There were no rollers from the outer bearing to be found. Even the washer was welded in there. Inner bearing looks like no damage, but of course will be replaced
Boy did it pull hard to the left when it all seized up.
There were no rollers from the outer bearing to be found. Even the washer was welded in there. Inner bearing looks like no damage, but of course will be replaced
Boy did it pull hard to the left when it all seized up.
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I was hoping that nobody would ask. :o I noticed last week that it was loose, so I tightened it to spec without inspecting it. It looked like it had plenty of grease, and they were new 2 years ago. I remember thinking to myself, "Should I just replace it to be sure?" Man do I feel like an idiot now! Damn!
#8
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Use a compression packer and avoid packing by hand. Works like a dream and you know every roller is packed with grease
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...le&kw=LIS34550
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...le&kw=LIS34550
#9
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Sorry, the inner race of the outer bearing is welded to the spindle.
There were no rollers from the outer bearing to be found. Even the washer was welded in there. Inner bearing looks like no damage, but of course will be replaced
Boy did it pull hard to the left when it all seized up.
There were no rollers from the outer bearing to be found. Even the washer was welded in there. Inner bearing looks like no damage, but of course will be replaced
Boy did it pull hard to the left when it all seized up.
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The second time on another car, I backed out of the garage, got about 50 feet, and locked severely. I was able to get back into the garage, but only by revving the engine and forcing it to turn. Fortunately, I didn't damage the spindle either time.
Hope it all works out well for you!!
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Last edited by Ron Miller; 08-03-2009 at 07:47 PM. Reason: Learning to spell "bearing" lol
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Guess I've been lucky...the 5-6 wheel bearings that have failed on me over the years always gave me a warning....like a growl when turning one way or the other...
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Try Bairs Corvette for a replacement spindle. I always had good luck with them and used them to get a replacement for a bent spindle I had. Highly recommended.
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Another option, depending on how original you want to stay, the 69 up spindles are the same except they used larger bearings and hubs and the backing plate is larger in the hub area. Everything else will bolt up.
You also can find the later spindle and hub for about 1/4 of what the midyear unit will run and have a stronger bearing system.
Sure is nice it happened close to home and not out on the coast.
Good luck
Jeff
You also can find the later spindle and hub for about 1/4 of what the midyear unit will run and have a stronger bearing system.
Sure is nice it happened close to home and not out on the coast.
Good luck
Jeff
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Another option, depending on how original you want to stay, the 69 up spindles are the same except they used larger bearings and hubs and the backing plate is larger in the hub area. Everything else will bolt up.
You also can find the later spindle and hub for about 1/4 of what the midyear unit will run and have a stronger bearing system.
Sure is nice it happened close to home and not out on the coast.
Good luck
Jeff
You also can find the later spindle and hub for about 1/4 of what the midyear unit will run and have a stronger bearing system.
Sure is nice it happened close to home and not out on the coast.
Good luck
Jeff
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Gerry
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The most efficient way to repair, but not the least expensive, is to change the whole trailing arm complete. And do both sides.
Check with Bair's, Van Steel or Ikerds.
Thought I got a good deal through Paragon for a set from Ikerd's in just one week for my 67, after I burned a wheel bearing on the road like yours.
Just thnk, you have a rear end set of wheels lubed for another 50 K miles, and your parking brake problems are over with.
Check with Bair's, Van Steel or Ikerds.
Thought I got a good deal through Paragon for a set from Ikerd's in just one week for my 67, after I burned a wheel bearing on the road like yours.
Just thnk, you have a rear end set of wheels lubed for another 50 K miles, and your parking brake problems are over with.
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If you can find a good used left spindle, it won't be too expensive a repair as long as the project creep truck does not back over you while you are down there. Labor won't be too bad either if you are just doing R&R of the spindle with new bearings. If you spun the race, chances are probable that you will need a new hub too sorry to say.
Pilot Dan
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Last edited by Pilot Dan; 08-04-2009 at 01:10 AM.