65 327/350HP by-pass hose
06-04-2010, 08:44 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
65 327/350HP by-pass hose
Does the 65 require the by-pass hose from the water pump to the manifold?? My car did not have them before restoration and looked like it never did?? Dave
06-04-2010, 08:50 AM
#2
Race Director
Check that you have the correct water pump and manifold....the connections should be there. Many cars have the water pump and/or intake manifold replaced sometime in their life, and the bypass hose gets deleted.
Larry
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marshal135 (08-27-2022)
06-04-2010, 09:33 AM
#3
Tech Contributor
If you are doing a full restoration, then the bypass hose should be in place.
On the other hand, my 65 327/350 is missing the bypass and I have not experienced overheating issues, even in traffic in August in Houston. I've chosen not to try to add the bypass, because I don't want to risk damaging the intake when removing the plug that has been in the intake for who-knows how many years.
06-04-2010, 10:06 AM
#4
Race Director
I'm focusing on the word "require".
If you are doing a full restoration, then the bypass hose should be in place.
On the other hand, my 65 327/350 is missing the bypass and I have not experienced overheating issues, even in traffic in August in Houston. I've chosen not to try to add the bypass, because I don't want to risk damaging the intake when removing the plug that has been in the intake for who-knows how many years.
If you are doing a full restoration, then the bypass hose should be in place.
On the other hand, my 65 327/350 is missing the bypass and I have not experienced overheating issues, even in traffic in August in Houston. I've chosen not to try to add the bypass, because I don't want to risk damaging the intake when removing the plug that has been in the intake for who-knows how many years.
Agree........it is not REQUIRED. But it should improve WARM-UP and COOLANT CIRCULATION through the engine. It probably was done (by GM) for the iron engine block and the aluminum manifold due to the differences in thermal expansion for the two metals.
But it shouldn't have an impact on engine COOLING since no additional water flow goes through the radiator.
Larry
06-04-2010, 10:09 AM
#5
Tech Contributor
Jeff:
Agree........it is not REQUIRED. But it should improve WARM-UP and COOLANT CIRCULATION through the engine. It probably was done (by GM) for the iron engine block and the aluminum manifold due to the differences in thermal expansion for the two metals.
But it shouldn't have an impact on engine COOLING since no additional water flow goes through the radiator.
Larry
Agree........it is not REQUIRED. But it should improve WARM-UP and COOLANT CIRCULATION through the engine. It probably was done (by GM) for the iron engine block and the aluminum manifold due to the differences in thermal expansion for the two metals.
But it shouldn't have an impact on engine COOLING since no additional water flow goes through the radiator.
Larry
I have all the parts I need to put it back on my 65, but I fear that trying to remove that pipe plug from my aluminum intake after 20+ years (I know the car history back to 89) will crack the intake. So for now I'm leaving mine off, but wishing it were in place.
Jeff
06-04-2010, 10:15 AM
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Correct water pump in place. I heated the area around the plug with a heat gun. It softened the sealer and plug came right out. DO NOT over tighten.
Thanks Dave
Thanks Dave
06-04-2010, 10:23 AM
#7
Melting Slicks
The bypass is good because it circulates water through the block, helping the block to warm evenly and allowing the thermostat to see the average temperature.
With aftermarket intake manifold installations that don't have a bypass hole in the left front manifold boss, I drill and tap for 3/8 or 1/2 NPT so that I can add a bypass; I restrict the passage in the bypass nipple to 3/8", Also, when you do this, it is a good idea to block the lower (3/8th dia) bypass hole in the pass side leg of the water pump as it performs a similar function, but only to the pass side of the block.
With aftermarket intake manifold installations that don't have a bypass hole in the left front manifold boss, I drill and tap for 3/8 or 1/2 NPT so that I can add a bypass; I restrict the passage in the bypass nipple to 3/8", Also, when you do this, it is a good idea to block the lower (3/8th dia) bypass hole in the pass side leg of the water pump as it performs a similar function, but only to the pass side of the block.
08-27-2022, 06:54 PM
#8
Intermediate
How long did you heat around the plug and at what temperature? I am having the hardest time getting this out.
