I put a duel master cyl. on my 63
04-27-2011, 01:20 PM
#21
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
Posts: 38,899
Received 1,862 Likes
on
1,104 Posts
80% of midyear production had manual brakes, including my '67; don't confuse the extremely low pedal effort on your modern daily driver with power brakes with the pedal effort on an old manual-brake Corvette. If someone who had never driven anything but a modern car drove my manual-brake '67, they'd probably say my brake pedal effort was WAY too high, and there must be something wrong with it. Modern cars with low pedal effort have spoiled us. 
04-27-2011, 01:46 PM
#22
Le Mans Master
Let me describe the "effort."
The pedal is nice and high from the floor. You push the pedal and the effort seems fairly normal at first, though a bit hard.
As the pedal is depressed the effort gets harder, as expected.
When you get to the point where you would expect the brakes to lock up, they don't. You find yourself squeezing extremely hard for that last bit, but the lock-up never really seems to come.
Of course this is unnerving as you are getting closer and closer to the midyear bumper in front of you.
The pedal is nice and high from the floor. You push the pedal and the effort seems fairly normal at first, though a bit hard.
As the pedal is depressed the effort gets harder, as expected.
When you get to the point where you would expect the brakes to lock up, they don't. You find yourself squeezing extremely hard for that last bit, but the lock-up never really seems to come.
Of course this is unnerving as you are getting closer and closer to the midyear bumper in front of you.
04-27-2011, 06:31 PM
#23
Drifting
as John Z says the 63/64s have a 7/8th bore all later C2s are 1". a 7/8 master is very unusual. i switched to a duel master with drum brakes all around on my 64. i used a 77 monza master, it has a 7/8th bore on both sides, thus no increased pedal pressure. the 77 monza is non powered, it works like a charm. the monzas were front discs, so you either have to install a check valve in the master or a check valve in the front brake line. it works great. i did a write up on the mod in detail in 2007 or 2008 on the C2 forum, do a search...
04-27-2011, 07:22 PM
#24
Drifting
Let me describe the "effort."
The pedal is nice and high from the floor. You push the pedal and the effort seems fairly normal at first, though a bit hard.
As the pedal is depressed the effort gets harder, as expected.
When you get to the point where you would expect the brakes to lock up, they don't. You find yourself squeezing extremely hard for that last bit, but the lock-up never really seems to come.
Of course this is unnerving as you are getting closer and closer to the midyear bumper in front of you.
The pedal is nice and high from the floor. You push the pedal and the effort seems fairly normal at first, though a bit hard.
As the pedal is depressed the effort gets harder, as expected.
When you get to the point where you would expect the brakes to lock up, they don't. You find yourself squeezing extremely hard for that last bit, but the lock-up never really seems to come.
Of course this is unnerving as you are getting closer and closer to the midyear bumper in front of you.
go with the monza master, and if you ever follow to close to any of my cars, expepte a beat down
04-27-2011, 07:53 PM
#25
Le Mans Master
so you drive behind other midyears too closely, where does that ever happen. in my pantera i would just blast off and leave you behind. but if you crashed into my vette. you were following to closly so it is your fault.
go with the monza master, and if you ever follow to close to any of my cars, expepte a beat down
go with the monza master, and if you ever follow to close to any of my cars, expepte a beat down
My research on the Monza has only turned up M/Cs for use with a "flush" pushrod, as is done on the power brake Corvettes. I've even posted a link to a Monza M/C here and will do it again. They are fairly cheap to obtain rebuilts.
The non-power Corvette needs approximately 1.65" of pushrod depth. I've not seen a depth listed for the non-power Monzas. Perhaps you have a reference?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wagne...Q5fAccessories
Last edited by toddalin; 04-27-2011 at 07:56 PM.
04-28-2011, 01:24 AM
#26
Drifting
Not a matter of following too close. Its a matter of not getting the most out of the brakes.
My research on the Monza has only turned up M/Cs for use with a "flush" pushrod, as is done on the power brake Corvettes. I've even posted a link to a Monza M/C here and will do it again. They are fairly cheap to obtain rebuilts.
The non-power Corvette needs approximately 1.65" of pushrod depth. I've not seen a depth listed for the non-power Monzas. Perhaps you have a reference?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wagne...Q5fAccessories
My research on the Monza has only turned up M/Cs for use with a "flush" pushrod, as is done on the power brake Corvettes. I've even posted a link to a Monza M/C here and will do it again. They are fairly cheap to obtain rebuilts.
The non-power Corvette needs approximately 1.65" of pushrod depth. I've not seen a depth listed for the non-power Monzas. Perhaps you have a reference?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wagne...Q5fAccessories
04-28-2011, 01:56 AM
#27
Le Mans Master
TOD. just adjust the pushrod to fit the master. i built a flat firewall for my car, with the monza master i had to make a one inch spacer and install it with corresponding longer bolts welded to the pedal bracket that goes under the dash. i then sawed the head off a 2 inch grade 8 bolt and gound it so it looked like this U on the end. adjusted it to fit with 1/32 clearance, you do know that the monza master has different sized brake lines. a doulble flairing tool and a tube bender is needed for the install...
Great. Sounds like a simple "bolt on," "screw-up" that will look near stock.
Actually, the brake lines look like they should fit fine and the only thing necessary in that respect may be some adapters.
Last edited by toddalin; 04-28-2011 at 01:27 PM.
