VinceP

This winter I am getting the car ready to shoot.I am looking at either single stage or bc cc.It will be black Any suggestions...Vince

66BlkBB

It depends on what you want to do with the car afterwards. I went with BC/CC as I was never going to have the judged NCRS. The BC/CC is a lot easier to work with. I have wet sanded my car on about 3 or 4 occasions to smooth out some imperfections and I still haven't gone through the CC. JMO

Scott Marzahl

I think you will get more depth with a single stage black, something like PPG Concept or Spies Hecker High Solids 275.

VinceP

Do you know how many coats of base and clear? vince

Scott Marzahl

Depends upon the material. If you are shooting this in the garage, and depending upon mil thickness you might do 2-3 coats of base, IF needed, sand out any trash and apply more base coat, then shoot 3 coats of clear, depending upon the clear you may want to sand and then shoot two more, sand and buff if the material allows it. Just depends on what look you are after and if the material allows it.

1snake

Have you ever shot BC/CC? If you sand the base you MUST shoot more base before you clear the car.

Jim

csherman

Depends...
depends on the quality of the material and how it hides
Basecoat 2-3 coats - I nomally shoot 3 - 4 coats of base
Clear 2 - 3 coats - 3 coats if your going to do alot of wetsanding
and optional
after the car is based and cleared
wetsand the car again with 800 to 1000 - 2 more coats of clear - the wetsand that with 1000 1500 2000 3000 and wear your sun glasses

1snake

The number of coats of base depends on the paint. All you need is total coverage. What may take 2 coats with one brand may take 4 with another. As far as the clear goes, it depends on the clear, your gun and the application. With a good quality clear, 3 coats usually is enough to allow you cut and buff.

Jim

csherman

Yep
Any marks you put in/on the base coat - will show up when you clear....
if you sand out trash or hose marks or.....
you will have will apply more base

Vega$Vette

I heard recently the they are not going to deduct any points for 2 stage anymore?

John McGraw

While the depth of gloss is probably a little higher with BC/CC, I am a big fan on single stage for all non-metallic colors. It can be color sanded and buffed just like clear coat, and is way easier to touch up. A properly cut and polished Single stage job will have a depth of gloss that is comparable to a BC/CC job.
About the only time I shoot BC/CC is for metallic colors. It is probably more expensive for most colors in single stage, especially red, but it is worth it to me. With BC, you do not have to put as much of the expensive red pigment down as you do with the single stage, and the clear is WAY less expensive. Touching up nicks and chips is tougher my cars is a annual event, and it is just so easy with single stage urethane.


Regards, John McGraw

John McGraw

They do not deduct points for any paint job that is consistent with the appearance of typical factory paint, period. BC/CC jobs can take zero point hits, if it does not look like BC/CC. Likewise, Lacquer paint can take major point hits if it is too slick and shiny. Almost any paint can be made to look like original lacquer paint, if the painter is skilled enough. I am not sufficiently skilled to make BC/CC look like original paint, but there are people who are. Hell. even my lacquer paint jobs usually take some points because they are too slick! I just can't bring myself to not color sand and buff.

Regards, John McGraw

Scott Marzahl

Thanks for catching that, yes, after sanding BC with 1200, I would shoot another coat of base. Should have proof read that closer

mrtexas

No one has suggested single stage color sanded and clear coated. I shot single stage on my 29 Ford and then decided to clear coat it. The clear is much harder to sand thru. On a few parts I didn't spray clear like the louvered hood. On the top irons I left the single stage uncleared. I cleared all the major body panels.

When I ordered my PPG Concepts a couple years ago I really didn't know what I was doing, Model A forum members suggested the single stage. I changed my mind when I painted recently and shot clear as well.

My 63 has base/clear put on by a pro shop.

65tripleblack

I can't, for the life of me, understand why anyone would paint a car using modern materials..............especially in BLACK..................and then fu*k it up by making it try to look like lackey!

Paint the damn thing in BC/CC, enjoy the deep, mirror, "wet black glass" finish. Enjoy the oooohs and aaaaahs of admirers, and don't look back.

There is NOTHING like a BLACK car in BC/CC!
Nothing.


If you wanta make your car nice and ugly for the NCRS, then paint it in lackey.

John McGraw

I disagree with your assessment of single stage Urethane. PPG clear and PPG concept (DCC) are basically the same formulation. One has pigment and the other does not. They are both very similar in hardness and durability. If you are going to clear anyway, do not waste the money on using DCC for a color coat. You can shoot DBC basecoat for a lot less money. As you can see in the pic below, DCC looks very good without any clear coat on it. This is my 65 that I painted 4 years ago With DCC and no clear.

http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1318978887



Regards, John McGraw

DansYellow66

Scratches show up white in CC/BC black. They show up black in SS black. If it's a garage queen it might not matter. If it gets some regular use and is exposed to some daily grind and wear it might make a difference when washed up.

Over in the Paint and Body area under General Corvette you can do an advanced search for threads on "black paint" and get a number of discussions on this subject. I was impressed by the nearly universal agreement of the body and paint experts that inhabit that forum (Dub and Porchdog) in addition to prior posts by John McGraw to use single stage (PPG Concept) on the black car I just painted. I wish I could say it's just about the shiniest and clearest black finish you have ever seen but I'm still color sanding in preparation for buffing.

John McGraw

Dan,

The other real advantage of the single stage urethane is, if you should sand through when color sanding, you can mix up a little more black and just spot paint the area. By the next day, you can sand and buff that area, and you will never see the repair. If you do this with BC/CC, you will have to shoot some more base, followed by clear blended out on the panel, and there is still a chance that you will see the edge of the clear when you buff it out. The only sure-fire way not to see clear edges, is to clear the entire panel from edge to edge. This can be quite a problem on Corvettes where the panels are not individual panels like they are on steel cars.


Regards, John McGraw

DansYellow66

You know I had this come up on my car I just painted when I found a thin area on a fender lip that I managed to hit lightly on all 4 passes arond the car and exposed sealer in color sanding. I got so many varying opinions on the Paint and Body forum about trying to spot it and blend it in - I looked at blending thinner, etc - that I finally just feathered in a couple coats over the area and then re-shot the entire body with two more complete coats of black. But, I'm glad to hear from experience that it can be touched up and blended in to be virtually invisible.

Thanks

John McGraw

Yep, I touch up nicks and rock chips all the time on my cars, and you can never see the repair. The only time this is not true is when you are using a metallic.


Regards, John McGraw