Swept57

I thought this info would be easy to find but I can't seem to locate it. I am considering buying a 63 convertible that does not have its original engine. How do I tell which 327 it came with originally? Thanks, Dave

gbvette62

There is no way to know. Nothing on the car, or in the VIN, will identify what engine originally came in it. You can make a guess based on the tach's redline, but that is all it would be, a guess since the tach's are easily changed.

1972, was the first year that the VIN included a code that identified the engine.

TheSaint

There is a stamp on the pad on the engine located in front of the right head just above the water pump
The stamp should include the 6 last digits in the VIN and a single letter for which year
So if you have the correct engine for your car the first letter would be 3(for 1963)and the last 6 digits in the VIN of the car

Have a look at the picture below

Swept57

Thanks guys. The engine in it now is a later model 350. I will check the tach to see what it is just because I am curious. This particular 63 is unrestored with a number of minor body mods such as shaved body, modified hood, and six tail-lights. It also has headers and Torque-Thrust wheels. The heavily oxidized paint indicates the body mods were made long ago. It just came out of a 15 year indoor storage, but runs really well. If I buy it, I would probably enjoy it as is. Too far gone (for me) to consider a proper restoration.

Swept57

Well the tach redline is 6500 and if the tach was changed it was done a long time ago. Somewhere on this forum I read something about a steering damper, or lack of for the 340 and 360 engines. Is this something that can be used to determine engine?

Rich Yanulis

If the car has a 6500 redline tach it came with a 340 or 360.
If the car does not have a steering stabilizer it came with a 340 or 360.
If there is a very large hole in the left side of the radiator support it was a 360.

Keep in mind this is a general guide
ANY of the above parts could have been changed from original over the last 50 years.

TC233

Hmmm okay check the tachometer. If its redline is at the end of the tack then it was a 340 or a 360HP FI.
If it was a 360HP FI you should see holes in the fender where the FI insignia was. Also there should be a cut out for the air injection near the radiator.

If a 300HP or 250HP then the redline will be 5300ish

I think thats the best you can do with identifying it.

Swept57

Tach is 6500 red line. The body is shaved, so all the emblems were removed and the holes were filled. I would have to look for filled holes for the FI emblems. Tomorrow I will look for air intake hole. Everything on this car is weathered so i really don't think anything was changed to mimic a more valuable configuration. Others are interested in this car, so I am going to have to make a decision soon. From the above comments and other threads, it sounds like once the original engine is gone and even if it has all the indicators of a 340 or 360 engine, it's value is completely independent of what engine it might have had. Well that is the position I will take when I make my offer.

Rich Yanulis

You are correct.
The car you are describing is now highly modified.
Which engine it was originally equipped with no longer has any bearing on it's current market value.

gbvette62

These are all indicators of what the original engine, might have been.

The OP has to keep in mind that tachs are often changed, the steering stabilizer is easily removed, and the GM service replacement core supports, came with the FI air cleaner hole.

Swept57

Does $20K sound like a reasonable offer? Aside from the mods mentioned above, it has power steering, 4-speed, and both tops. The car is complete and runs great. There is no body damage beyond minor nicks and scrapes but the red paint is oxidized. Interior is complete and in pretty good shape. All lights and gauges work. Headlights operate smoothly. The car came from the south; there is no rust on the frame. The price guides I looked at put it at around $25K but I am new to Corvettes and I don't know if the guides are considered accurate.

63split63

It is hard to say what any car is worth from a brief description , but I will guess at a value .
If what you mean by the body being shaved is just the corvette insignia and fender flags are gone and the holes filled in , that is easy to put back. If the door handles are gone, fenders flared and the headlight doors are gone that is a different deal.
I would say any midyear in running condition ( complete car not too customised ) would be a safe bet at 20 g .

Bill

ifitgoesfast

I think everyone covered the areas. Only thing to add is talk to the current owner about previous owner history. It sounds like that vette has been raced. Check to see if there was a roll bar welded to the frame at one point (cut off), mine has an inch left (4 point). Reason is, you might be able to go to the Corvette club where the car spent its life and ask the older guys if they know anything about the car.

That's cool, didn't know that.

Swept57

Just emblems removed. Door handles intact, no flares, no ducktails, etc. It does have 6 taillights though and a small "bubble" added to the hood. Otherwise stock body. I am going to start at $18K and see what happens.

gbvette62

Pictures would help. It's tough to say what it's worth without actually seeing it, but if your description is accurate, $20,000 could be about right.

What are your ultimate plans for the car? If your looking at this car, as something to fix up, and sell for a profit, it's probably not going to happen. If you have to pay someone to strip and professionally paint it, you could be looking at over $10,000.

How much on the car is original? Many 63 parts are one year only, and more expensive than similar parts on 64-67's. If the console's beat up, or missing, they cost about $750-$800 to restore, and $1,200 for repros. A repro 63 glove box door, is over $400. All of this adds up pretty quick.

When it comes to determining the original engine, in the car. The difference in value between a 250, 300 or 340 horse car, is probably minimal. Only a true fuelie (360hp), would be worth significantly more, than other available engines.

As an FYI, if it has power steering, it probably wasn't a 340 or 360. Neither engine was originally available, with power steering. Power steering could be added to a 340 or 360, but it required changing the oil pan.

ifitgoesfast

If the power steering wasn't added, it wasn't an L76 or fuelie. The 5 quart oil pan's long sump didn't allow for power steering. But that could've been added.

I think since the body is shaved, that car enters a whole other market. It's worth is what you're willing to pay, and it's price is whatever deal is worked out between asking and offer. It'll probably be more difficult to sell later to the regular market, due to the mods, but I think it sounds like a really cool car you wouldn't have to worry about except having fun.

Which rear end differential does it have? Might be a clue

TheSaint

Have you had a good look at the birdcage and checked it for rust?
The most important thing in my book is to have a rust free birdcage

Swept57

I wondered about the power steering as the brackets are definitely aftermarket. I am going back to take a final look tonight. I'll grab some pictures.

As to what I would do with it? Nothing really. I was just going to drive it. I wasn't even planning to paint it. It is complete and everything works. Outside the purchase price, replacement of belts, hoses etc., and general maintenance, I wasn't planning on investing another dime. There is actually some new trim (not sure if NOS or reproduction) that is included (rocker moldings, taillights). I would just sell that stuff. The entire car is evenly aged so I can't see putting a few new shiny parts on an otherwise well-patina'd body. Current owner bought it with intent to restore, but other than collecting a few pieces, it sat in his garage. He had other higher priorty projects. He doesn't know any other history on the car. Issue date of current title is 1987 so any mods to the car were done prior to that date. And based on the even aging of everthing, I think the mods were done very early in the cars life. I kind of want to preserve it as is.

When you say which differential, you mean gearing? Or were there optional types?

Swept57

I don't see anything but light surface rust anywhere.

TC233

I think the guy will look at you funny lol But like my dad always told me
"you can always raise your price, but can never lower it" so insult first, and if they guy is still standing in front of you, you are already ahead lol