Big Block rear main seal replacement
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I've done a lot of searching and have got conflicting reports on whether you can remove your original main seal on a corvette with a big block with the engine still in the car.
Can someone confirm that it can be done while the engine is in the car or not?
I asked my local shop about it and they were saying they would have to take the entire engine out the car to do it for 100$/hour labor.
Taking an engine out of a car seems to me a lot more labor work than just doing this with engine still intact.
According to this write-up for small blocks, it seems relatively straight forward. Would it be any different for a big block?
http://www.corvettehacks.com/article5.html
thanks
jim
Can someone confirm that it can be done while the engine is in the car or not?
I asked my local shop about it and they were saying they would have to take the entire engine out the car to do it for 100$/hour labor.
Taking an engine out of a car seems to me a lot more labor work than just doing this with engine still intact.
According to this write-up for small blocks, it seems relatively straight forward. Would it be any different for a big block?
http://www.corvettehacks.com/article5.html
thanks
jim
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It most certainly can be done.....
For years there was a tool that Lisle made called the "sneaky pete"...I find they work some of the time as a young guy...been years since I have tried it.....
I would recommend loosening the main caps and getting some slack between the crank and the bearing/block to make it more accessible....the timing cover and all of that will have to be removed as well.
Make sure you use a quality seal such as the Fel-Pro viton type....and "stagger" it....parting lines not perpendicular to the main cap/block parting line.
Jebby
For years there was a tool that Lisle made called the "sneaky pete"...I find they work some of the time as a young guy...been years since I have tried it.....
I would recommend loosening the main caps and getting some slack between the crank and the bearing/block to make it more accessible....the timing cover and all of that will have to be removed as well.
Make sure you use a quality seal such as the Fel-Pro viton type....and "stagger" it....parting lines not perpendicular to the main cap/block parting line.
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; 03-01-2016 at 02:28 PM.
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It makes me wonder if their first response was due to lack of experience, ignorance or something more shadier.
jim
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New shop needs to make LOTS of money. You'd best keep on looking. Try to find an older more experienced fellow, one who's HONEST. BTW, how bad is it leaking ?
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Difficult to stay in business for a long time when not honest. One can only screw so many people before the word gets out.
After rebuild, mine leaks a little. Then again, I am running 20W50 at 75 psi with a high flow pump. Seems to happen after pushing it hard, when more oil goes to the back of the stock pan? Wondering it this is a basic flaw in the design, sorta like my old AMF Harley. It left a stain everywhere it went.
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The shop will need to guarantee their work. When changing the seal with the engine in the car, there's always a chance that it will still leak. I don't blame them for not wanting to do it.
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After rebuild, mine leaks a little. Then again, I am running 20W50 at 75 psi with a high flow pump. Seems to happen after pushing it hard, when more oil goes to the back of the stock pan? Wondering it this is a basic flaw in the design, sorta like my old AMF Harley. It left a stain everywhere it went.
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It has a pretty slow leak on mine, mostly while sitting in one place for a long time. I put something under my car cause after a month it will maybe make a a circle about 10 inches wide. This is a fix I would like to put on my list of things to do but not urgent.
It appears to be leaking right between the vertical plate that separates the engine from transmission.
I cleaned the oil pan and general area to make sure I can pinpoint the slow leak. The only thing is I haven't been able to start up the engine due to current projects on car and I am not sure if that will slow down the dripping.
It appears to be leaking right between the vertical plate that separates the engine from transmission.
I cleaned the oil pan and general area to make sure I can pinpoint the slow leak. The only thing is I haven't been able to start up the engine due to current projects on car and I am not sure if that will slow down the dripping.
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If you have an early block (changeover was about 1969) without dowel pins in the front of the block and corresponding holes in the timing cover, you need to use a particular technique (and tool if you can find one) to get the timing cover located correctly or the new seal may well blow out quickly. You can either use the centering tool on the crankshaft nose and then tighten the timing cover, or you can partially install the balancer (so the end of the balancer snout passes through the oil seal on the cover) with the cover bolts loose, and then snug the cover bolts. The balancer can then be installed the rest of the way. This can be done with the motor in the car. Worst case you may have to pull the motor mount bolts and lift the motor a bit for clearance.
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If you have an early block (changeover was about 1969) without dowel pins in the front of the block and corresponding holes in the timing cover, you need to use a particular technique (and tool if you can find one) to get the timing cover located correctly or the new seal may well blow out quickly. You can either use the centering tool on the crankshaft nose and then tighten the timing cover, or you can partially install the balancer (so the end of the balancer snout passes through the oil seal on the cover) with the cover bolts loose, and then snug the cover bolts. The balancer can then be installed the rest of the way. This can be done with the motor in the car. Worst case you may have to pull the motor mount bolts and lift the motor a bit for clearance.
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