Throttle Cable Help
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Throttle Cable Help
I just figured out that when i push the pedal, the cable only open the carb half way. I pulled the cable back from the bracket by hand (and Held it while someone pushed the pedal) and it allows me to open the carb much wider. How do i replace this cable? I assume i need a new one. Carb side looks easy, how do i do it from the pedal side? on line, it looks like there is a retainer? Is the cable screwed onto the floor?
Any assistance would be great. I have attached a pic from the carb side.
Any assistance would be great. I have attached a pic from the carb side.
#2
before you mess with the cable I would change that homemade brkt,it looks like it isn't holding the cable in the right spot.Look for a repo holley brkt off an lt-1. Wilcox or Paragon sells them,about $35.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
I just figured out that when i push the pedal, the cable only open the carb half way. I pulled the cable back from the bracket by hand (and Held it while someone pushed the pedal) and it allows me to open the carb much wider. How do i replace this cable? I assume i need a new one. Carb side looks easy, how do i do it from the pedal side? on line, it looks like there is a retainer? Is the cable screwed onto the floor?
Any assistance would be great. I have attached a pic from the carb side.
Any assistance would be great. I have attached a pic from the carb side.
#4
Le Mans Master
At the top of the linkage on the pedal inside the car, the cable runs thru a hole with a plastic grommet, Remove that grommet and pull the cable out of it thru the split. The cable housing bolts to the firewall. All done.
That said, the cable rarely goes bad.
Looking at your picture, the carb looks like it has a Ford kickdown link on the side of it. That aside, move the throttle cable attach ball forward to the next hole and readjust the cable attachment at the rear of the carb. It's allowed to slightly bend the cable mount too. I wouldn't make it look like a pretzel, but a little bend might help..
That said, the cable rarely goes bad.
Looking at your picture, the carb looks like it has a Ford kickdown link on the side of it. That aside, move the throttle cable attach ball forward to the next hole and readjust the cable attachment at the rear of the carb. It's allowed to slightly bend the cable mount too. I wouldn't make it look like a pretzel, but a little bend might help..
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
At the top of the linkage on the pedal inside the car, the cable runs thru a hole with a plastic grommet, Remove that grommet and pull the cable out of it thru the split. The cable housing bolts to the firewall. All done.
That said, the cable rarely goes bad.
Looking at your picture, the carb looks like it has a Ford kickdown link on the side of it. That aside, move the throttle cable attach ball forward to the next hole and readjust the cable attachment at the rear of the carb. It's allowed to slightly bend the cable mount too. I wouldn't make it look like a pretzel, but a little bend might help..
That said, the cable rarely goes bad.
Looking at your picture, the carb looks like it has a Ford kickdown link on the side of it. That aside, move the throttle cable attach ball forward to the next hole and readjust the cable attachment at the rear of the carb. It's allowed to slightly bend the cable mount too. I wouldn't make it look like a pretzel, but a little bend might help..
#6
For me it looks like your cable bracket is too much forward towards the carb. So the cable cannot be pulled towards WOT enough. Furthermore, obviously your throttle pedal does not support the required cable travel. So, I would recommend to put the right bracket on first to ensure that if you move the cable by hand it still is fixed in the right position in the bracket and then adjust the cable length as described by wowed777.
Much success!
Much success!
#7
Le Mans Master
I'm running into the same issue. I think my cable has stretched. It shouldn't but I think it has since it has all the stock original brackets in place. I've been moving the sheathing and the metal collar further and further back to try to get it to open fully, but it seems to get worse.
So yes, yours could be, too.
So yes, yours could be, too.
#8
Le Mans Master
IT's also not against the rules to bend the upper part of the pedal arm away from the firewall a bit to get more travel. Just make sure it's not going to catch on anything.
#9
Safety Car
the cable is Not the problem
common problem is the gas pedal arm gets bend from being stomped on.
remove pedal assemble bend straight, I added reinforcement steel pin on this section.
to prevent future bending.
also that is not how the carb. bracket mounts,
it need to turn sideways and use the missing clamp to hold the accelrator cable.
your cable is in the wrong position creating problems.
common problem is the gas pedal arm gets bend from being stomped on.
remove pedal assemble bend straight, I added reinforcement steel pin on this section.
to prevent future bending.
also that is not how the carb. bracket mounts,
it need to turn sideways and use the missing clamp to hold the accelrator cable.
your cable is in the wrong position creating problems.
Last edited by 69Vett; 03-20-2017 at 10:36 AM.
#10
Instructor
i had this issue also, pulled the cable and saw it was frayed and on on its way out, i ended up getting a lokar cable and aa aluminum cable mount. works quite well now but if you are going to try and remain stock not so much
#11
Safety Car
I've been fighting a similar problem on mine as well... it's very difficult to work on the pedal and bracket with the dash in place, it's possible, but not easy.
Mine still is not opening the carb all they way. Maybe about 75% but I just finally had to get away from it for a while... very frustrating.
mardyn
Mine still is not opening the carb all they way. Maybe about 75% but I just finally had to get away from it for a while... very frustrating.
mardyn
#12
Safety Car
you see the hex shaped end of the metal tip.
that is what the oem clamp assemble grabs and holds with a clamp.
that is what the oem clamp assemble grabs and holds with a clamp.
#13
Instructor