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68 HotWheels vette gets some minor upgrades

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Old 02-03-2024, 06:41 PM
  #941  
Arg0413
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Congrats!!
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Rescue Rogers (02-03-2024)
Old 02-04-2024, 12:04 AM
  #942  
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Congratulations Rescue!
It sounds awesome!
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Old 02-06-2024, 07:21 PM
  #943  
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not super excited about the fuel line running over the pulleys. Its fine for what it is but it looks ugly and its just there...I need to either make a hard line and mount it to the engine or figure a different banjo fitting...

Any pics of a different solution or ideas?

Last edited by Rescue Rogers; 02-06-2024 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 02-06-2024, 08:10 PM
  #944  
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prosystemsracing.com. Maybe Patrick James would have fuel bowls that would have lines on the other side.
or
make a hard right ar the end of your line to a stand at the right front intake bolts. Then a flex line to the filter.
Old 02-06-2024, 08:29 PM
  #945  
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I like the fuel bowl idea but i think the electric choke is in the way. I was thinking about trying to get closer like you said. I had an idea about the catch can ....
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Old 02-06-2024, 08:30 PM
  #946  
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I also thought breifly about going around behind but i want to keep the fuel cool
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Old 02-06-2024, 08:56 PM
  #947  
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Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
I like the fuel bowl idea but i think the electric choke is in the way. I was thinking about trying to get closer like you said. I had an idea about the catch can ....
loose the choke. I had the air horn milled off the 4 barrel on my big block. Accelerator pump is the choke. Then hold at 1800 till things calm down & it stays running when I put it in gear.

Old 02-06-2024, 10:14 PM
  #948  
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Set the electric choke full lean/0 tension. When the weather warms up, drive it that way and see what you think.
Old 02-07-2024, 05:23 AM
  #949  
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Not in new england thanks
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Old 02-07-2024, 07:14 AM
  #950  
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Looks good! Perhaps a bracket to hold the fuel line as it crosses over? There's a lot of mass there to be flung around and vibrate loose.

Is there a fuel cooler in front of the radiator that it is passing through, too?
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Old 02-07-2024, 03:22 PM
  #951  
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Yes. The line comes up from the frame to a regulator, through a shut off, then the filter. From there through the radiator support to the fuel cooler and backbto that big loop
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Old 02-07-2024, 05:09 PM
  #952  
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What if you eliminate the short piece of hose between the 90 and the carb and just connect the 90 right to the carb? the line can come up over the valve cover and would be closer to the carb/air cleaner and maybe not look like it was hanging out in front . . . .

Pat
Old 02-07-2024, 07:13 PM
  #953  
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the end of the banjo fitting has the section that has to be attached to a hose so I can try and make that hose a tiny bit shorter but it has to be there....unfortunately.

Im using Earls fittings for those Banjos and they dont have another choice, I was hoping they had one that had an AN-6 fitting but no luck

Last edited by Rescue Rogers; 02-07-2024 at 07:21 PM.
Old 02-11-2024, 02:14 PM
  #954  
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Havent looked at the hose yet, been playing with my speedwarning speedometer. THere is a special speedometer needle I want to find a replacement for but I cant find one. Im going to put up a new post looking for one. It has a spring on the back that contacts the speedwarning needle and creates a ground for the buzzer. It gets hung up and the warning may get up to 5 to mph past the warning before it sounds. a slight tap and it releases so it may be fine if I hit a pothole or a railroad crossing. I also had to shorten the speedometer cable to the GPS receiver. It was getting hung up with all the excess bends but it works well with the short cable now. Also had to set the mileage so it was correct. When I was testing it I verified the odometer and the trip meter was working as well
IT all works fine but the buzzer may be too quiet with the headers and the sidepipes. If I decide I really want to know its working I can buy a louder buzzer and hook a warnign light up as well...not important now, just so I know it works is good enough for now.



this is the needle I need. You can see the back has the spring holder that the others wont

found a nice stamp on it. It looked so nice I though it was a replacement

this is the odometer on the original in the car and I matched the speedwarning odometer so I wont have registration issues

Old 02-11-2024, 02:59 PM
  #955  
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THis is how I did it
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1607517250
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Old 02-17-2024, 02:18 PM
  #956  
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back to the car today...Ive been doing a little work during the week..last weekend I pulled the passenger dash to get the GPS sender out and made sure the head unit was fine. I pulled the seats, drivers dash and steering wheel and column as well. So far Today I go the dash disconnected, the head unit swapped and started running the wiring for the speed warning and the power windows. Glad I started looking at it last night as I would have to have the dash out to get to the wiring. I also decided to replace the carpet as well since mine is just trashed. Pretty poor quality and it just fell apart....came in for lunch and a little research on the window removal and door wiring. THe doors should have the holes for the wiring but I cant find the plugs...more difficult since I cant get the doors all the way open since the garage is so narrow...



soon all this will have to find a new home when I replace the carpets...most of it will get new dye as well


a sea of wiring. Gaff tape helps the light illuminte the key slot...its a 68 only thing



research for the wiring

AIM


harness from Lectric LImited


these plugs are for later models , the 68s had a different adapter


I have to reach all the way in there to get to the grommet for the wiring ...luckily it only one wire


Old 02-17-2024, 02:28 PM
  #957  
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These wires and the breaker are the only things under the hood, the orange black is the only wore going through the fire wall

this relay lives under hte center console

this is the 68 adapter in the bag next to th eregular one

these wires go thought he boot into the door then the plug ends are installed

these are the 2 fire wall grommets that I showed from the inside next to the booster

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Old 02-17-2024, 05:13 PM
  #958  
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better view of the fire wall grommets from the outside

the factory location for the breaker

bolted right in






Got to a point that I started to take the door apart to check for the window wiring hole that is there for most years....there isnt one on my early 68...so tomorrow I have to pull the glass and regulator and see if I can drill the door without removing it....
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Old 02-17-2024, 07:08 PM
  #959  
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Great work
Old 02-18-2024, 09:02 PM
  #960  
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so today i started on the door with great reluctance...I know there isnt any holes in it an dI would have to remove it to drill them.....but I jumped in anyway just fo rthe punichment...here goes

I tried following a few different how to's by Corvette central and others but they are very generic and not for 68s but they did get me in the right direction.
here is the CC one for reference so I dont have to add all the small stuff
https://tech.corvettecentral.com/201...ic-windows-c3/

first I marked where the screws and bolts were to replicate the alignment both on the window and the hinges, I had them marked with letters previously for the window alignment procedures in the AIM..

I started undoing the bolts and realized that the window felt was in the way. With the window down I finally figured out that it needed to roll up and out versus sliding it from one end to the other. I had the tracks disconnected which let the window move freely so it was a bit easier to get the metal frame for the felt out



the felt is one piece all the way across the window openning

each end has a seal that has to be removed

you can make out the bolts with the letters on the heads as well as the door marked withthe corresponding letter for reassembly later

the seals expose a large openning that allows the window to be moved enough to come out

the exposed slots are where the roller wheels and the bolts will need to pass through

Last edited by Rescue Rogers; 02-18-2024 at 09:11 PM.


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