Jerry1978

How would I know if the box is bad? I didn't have any steering issues before I disassembled it, just leaking fluid all over the place.

Jerry1978

Got cha Mel. Thanks for the clarification.

Mark G

When you put the steering box back together, I'm assuming you tightened the pre-load and adjuster in accordance to the instructions, right?

MelWff

He didn't do the box. Read all his posts.

Jerry1978

I did not fuss with the box. Cutting my losses. Every time I mess with something, I end up in a process.

Mark G

I guess i missed that.

The steering box should be the next thing on your list if it hasn't been looked at in a while/long time. Even back in the day, they weren't known for holding adjustment very long. I would really encourage you at some point, to consider removing the steering box and re-set the settings, esp if you still have part of the steering unhooked. The benefit of doing that alone could be huge. You'd be glad you did. Maybe now isn't the time...maybe that's a winter project (in case you discover it needs rebuilding).

There are instructions out there. Probably some videos too. The way to do a quick re-adjustment of the settings is to remove the box, put in the vise and adjust the pre-load first then the screw (in that order). It's really rather simple and not tricky at all. And despite what a lot of guys say, you can do it w/o an inch/lbs wrench and be just fine. (or see if OReilly's rents an in/lb wrench or torque adapter). The specs are wide and I can explain how to gauge the settings with just hand tools. You can rent a steering removal tool for free from Autozone or OReilly's. The whole process if you have it on jackstands now, and steering partially off, should take an hour...maybe less. Like I say, I think you'd be glad you crossed that off your list and it could make a big difference in the steering tightness.

Did you get your alignment/tow set?

Jerry1978

Mark,

Good to know. I set the tow myself with a 2x4 on the wheels and my wife complaining about helping. The steering had play in it when I started, which I attributed to the weak valve, leaking cylinder and shredded coupling. My plan is to put it together and see if it is any better. I originally got into it as part of installing side pipes. Each project seems to expand, as you know.

If it is still loose, the box will be the next target, now that I know how the disassembly works and what affect it can have. Thanks for the info.

Mark G

How do you know the steering box is bad?? Good question. #1...you're talking about a stock steering box, right? They should be filled with grease...I thought you said oil was running out? Anyway, the best way to detect wear is to remove it and 'feel' the action and search for any freeplay. A lot of damage (wear) on a box occurs from age/ washing engine compartments/ steering w/o the vehicle running/ and general non-robustness of the steering box. If your steering box is getting overheated by headers, you might want to fab up a shield to keep it cooler.

1) Input bearing. The input bearing is like a bicycle crank bearing (meaning not very HD)...and they can get rusty from moisture that seeps down the steering box shaft from washing the engine compartment, etc...over time. Or even from the grease being 'cooked' from running hot headers nearby w/o heat shielding the box. So the first thing is to check the action of the input shaft by rotating by hand. Er....I'd actually remove the top and inspect it. If that bearing or the race is rusty, it'll be rough action and you'll feel it by hand instantly. You'll never get the pre-load to be right if it's toast. Mine was rusty as hell. A new bearing comes in the steering box kit.

2) Lower bushing - This is a long bronze bushing and as ya steer, both sides of the bushing wear over time. B/c that's where the wear pressure is applied for each steering movement. You can 'feel' if it's worn...there'll be a micro-amt of freeplay in the output shaft you can 'feel' once the adjustments are loosened (in a vise). But b/c it's a bushing, sure, over time they do wear. Now...your steering box's bushing could be just fine. But it's worth a check.

3) Those are the two main things I would check. There's the hard parts inside but for normal wear, it's the bearings/bushing I would check first.

A lot of owners put off dealing with the steering box like it's Voodoo..and thus after 50 yrs, it can be a major source of steering slop. But maybe yours has been 'dealt with' by a previous owner. But even back in the day, track enthusiasts would reset the adjustments frequently. Just tightening the top screw does nothing to deal with the pre-load or compensate for any input shaft play. And a micro-amt of play at the output bushing becomes magnified into excess steering 'play'.

Note: Definitely see how it goes once you put it on the road. If you still feel there's some tightness to be gained, give it a look over in the winter. If it hasn't been touched in a long time, it's a fun job to disassemble and re-do. But if that's not your thing, money/time-wise, it makes more sense to send it to a guy to re-do. There are a lot of owners who have been astonished how much tighter their cars' steering is after a steering box go-through.

.

MelWff

You need hydraulic pressure when centering the wheel for toe in.