I'm Batman

A quick search didn't turn up any instructions for sale.

jackson

Mr.L ... exactly how did YOU fit the dogbones & square them to top of lifter bores? ... did you work the tops by hand? ... or have block milled at machine shop?

jackson

Dunno if these instructions any good or not http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1

toyvet1

I did the convrersion when I built my 383, bought the instructions from E Bay and was more than worth the money. He tell detailed instructions and photos of what needs to be done.

Lionsden

Hey, Those pictures look familier!

Here is another




The cam used it the Crane 119831

Jackson, I just sent you the link you posted. D'OH

His instructions are detailed with pictures and information.

toupstrio

What are the advantages of a roller cam versus a standard one?

I'm Batman

I think there is a roller v. flat tappet cam discussion active in the Tech section. If it's not on the first page, it should be on the second.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...817&forum_id=3

Mr. L, what cam specs are you running? I'm in the process of building an EFI 400 (LT-1 manifold).

Edzred72

I'm going for it. It's the answer to my budget prayers.
Eddie

Mr.L

I'm running an experimental SPL roller retro cam (picked it up on ebay for $100.00). W/1.8 roller rockers, vortec heads redone to take up to 700 lift 2.02 intake 1.65 exhust valves. TPIS runners, BBK 58mm Tbody, ported plenum, 38lb injectors, long rods and a bunch of other stuff. I'm using MAF setup. 165 ecu special chip.

jackson

Again ... Mr.L ... exactly how did YOU fit the dogbones & square them to top of lifter bores? ... did you work the tops by hand? ... or have block milled at machine shop?

ratflinger

I googled 'lifters vl138' & came up with a PBM price sheet.

Lionsden

GM part numbers
17120070 LIFTER 16 (AC DELCO HL118)
12550002 GUIDE 8
14101116 RETAINER

I got my new lifters from ebay. Approx $90

Tom454

It's must be some form of Black Magic.... nobody wants to tell you how to do it.

Lionsden

I'm not Mr L but I will respond. The lifter bore tops could be dressed up with a flat hand file 'only' but the use of a die grinder will speed the process. A vertical mill isn't necessary. All that is needed is to make a flat surface for the guides to set flat against the block and not rock. A little addition clearance in need between the lifter bore and the valley wall next to the cylinder. That is where the die grinder comes in handy. The retainers have a sharp edge and that can be slightly rounded on one edge so less metal removal from the block is required. A hand drill can be used to drill the holes used to bolt the retainer in place. No need for a drill press.

mrvette

I remember doing my '89 truck 350 engine changeout into this '72 here, back in '97 and seeing the differances one to one on that factory roller setup, I had all the factory roller parts from another '87 vette engine boat project some years earlier, so I had everything needed to dress out the '89 block for the rollers....I put in the then hot ticket...ZZ9 cam from TPIS...480 intake 520 exhaust life, forget the duration though....anyway, I remember examining the changes, and IMO....

IF you are building an existing good shape engine for roller cam....forgetaboutit.....too much machine work/welding fabbing for an existing engine.....if you building from naked block, fine, do all the fabbing then....at any rate for a street machine it's pretty well been determined those toggle roller pairs sold aftermarket are lousey durability and not to be trusted, they can snap apart and trash an entire engine over a freakig toggle breaking....heppened to someone on this forum some time ago....

I personally think it's easier to just get another block from '87 up and go with that....got what 22 years of chebby SB production to pick from, can't be toooo bad to locate one...

gotta say one thing though, I have not seen ONE SBC in my favoriet U Pullit junkyard here off Normandy ave in Jax Florida, not ONE, neither for a Hydroboost....not ONE....go figger, this IS cartown USA though, everyone is a hotrodder....

GENE

jackson

I dunno ... Kinda Sorta ... But ... I wish to thank Lionsden, Twin_Turbo and a few others for their responses both here & privately! Those guys, yourself Tom454 and me too ... freely dole out info & try to help folks in need ... in my case it cost me unknown $ of time, trial & error etc to learn it ... some I learned from others; both here & elsewhere ... I'm sure no different for the folks I just mentioned ... least of all Tom454.

The $20 is no problem ... but the ebay seller's ad has so much pomp & flash while devoid of any clear feedback/comment indicating a customer's complete & successful conversion ... I'm wary of that scenario.

Lionsden & other's had/have clarified how they did their job ... I'm simply seeking a few more inputs ... to see if there's much of a concensus about the work itself & the outcome.

One could well imagine ... without this & other forums' free & open sharing of tech info/opinions ... forums likely wouldn't exist.

Thanks to each & all who try to help!

I'm Batman

I bought a set of the eBay directions - they were worth it. maybe a touch overpriced, but his pictures of what you need to grind and where to grind it will be extremely useful in getting this done.

Mr.L

Just grind the one side of the dog bone that is against the block. Round it off. I took a grinder (round nose) to level the block so they lay flat. Not much. The rounded off edges of the dog bone so they fit better and wont hangup. If the bones hangup they will wear the top of the lifters and have to be replaced. The whole grinding job takes about 6 hours. Thats the block and dog bones. Take your time, you can always take more off but you cant put back. I did each bone checked it and marked it where it was going to go. After all the grinding, I installed the cam, lifters, dog bones and spider plate and rotated the cam to make sure nothing was binding. If the bone does not lay flat it rides up when you rotate the cam as the lifter goes up, you will see it and it may make a snaping noise when it drops. The block must be flat where the dog bones lay. Don't buy cheap grinder bits. 1 good one will last for the whole job.

jackson

Mr. L, Batman & toy:
Each of you ... Thanks for the info!
Seems you may've approached it a bit differently than others ... did you use a flat file to flatten and square the tops of lifter bores? ... or only a die grinder burr/bit?

Were you pleased with the outcome? How many hours/runs/miles since your conversion?

Have you completed the conversion? If so, Were you pleased with the outcome? How many hours/runs/miles since your conversion?Were you pleased with the outcome? How many hours/runs/miles since your conversion?

Sky65

Is there a performance or reliability benefit to one style roller lifter over the other. Is the factory style better than aftermarket retro style? Are factory roller lifters as good as aftermarket retros or should one buy aftermarket anyway?

Thanks