ToniH

Oil pressure switch is great when you need to shut down the fuel pump quickly. It will do it at any time pressure drops like when the car is no longer on its wheels, engine is not running, you lose a bearing etc. It doesn't need an impact. But when starting an cold engine its not so great, it takes some time to bring the pressure up and this means long cranking time (~10 seconds) before the fuel pump starts. Doesn't sound like modern stuff, does it.

Inertia switch will kill the pump if there is an impact. But there is a small risk that you can flip the car on its side/roof without major impact and the switch could miss that.

So, both would be nice but they both have negative sides. Well, maybe I am being too carefull. Maybe the inertia switch alone would be safe enough?

vettesbydesign

For you guys thinking about this swap....I carry all the systems,and will beat who's ever pricing,and alot of times free shipping in the lower US 48.
I also,carry all the electric pumps,braided lines,fittings,etc.
I run a old school FI setup from another erra,but been doing my homework on all the different systems I have access to by all the different manufacturers,so I atleast,know what I am talking about to the customer....
That dual quad setup is theeeeee sheeeeeeet!

Solid LT1

I guess you need to decide if you want to purchase a system made by English speaking AMERICAN citizens or someone who speaks Cantonese or Tiawanese as their primary language. I know which system I would buy. Based on other parts I have seen made by Professional Products, I think their "professional attitude" and engineering leaves something to be desired

baxsom

i dont care who made it,
i want the best product. id take a well made chinese product over a poorly made american one anyday.

that being said not a lot of stuff is actually made in america anymore
from candadian chevys to mexican fords.

my buddys toyota tundra was made in america. i live down the street from where the over seas parts were all put together.

7t2vette

Ya, the extended cranking time would be a pain in the azz and annoying! With my current carb setup, there is nothing to shut it down if I lose oil pressure, so when I switch to FI it's not like I will be losing that feature. I do like the idea of shutting down the electric fuel pump in the the case of an impact though, so I think I will just go with an inertia switch.

I just looked over your pics, very nice vette!

yellow-fever

Finally!

ToniH

Is the black thing a fuel pump? If yes, don't you have a prefilter before it?

yellow-fever

Yes. Red thing is a filter so its not a prefilter. Should it be?

ToniH

In your current configuration whatever crap (rust, dirt etc.) is in the tank is fed directly to the pump and only filtered after it. IMO it would be wise to add low restriction prefilter before the pump to catch the biggest particles so they don't end up into the pump. Something like 100 micron would be ok.

bluzman2004

yellow Fever, I think I actually helped with the initial startup of your system, but I'm not sure. Did a shop install it off Covington Pike and he races a 57 Chevy in the ADRL?

Your filter is installed the way it is diagramed in the instructions. It is a post filter. It will keep any trash from getting to the injectors, like metal flakes from a failed fuel pump or anything else. Alot of people do add a pre filter to protect trash from getting to the pump.

yellow-fever

That was you, bluesman? I didn't make the connection. Thanks for coming over and getting Dwayne straight on it. Yes, that is my car. And yes, Dwayne races an outlaw pro-modified 57 Chevy.

And I'm glad to hear the filter is installed correctly. Thanks again. I love the system.

ToniH

Yes, the main filter is where it should be. I wasn't commenting on that.

I was just suggesting that it would be a good idea to add a prefilter so possible crap/trash/minor parts/etc. from the tank over the years would not block the pump or wear it out prematurely.

7t2vette

If you buy the kit from FAST including the fuel system, the pump included with the EZ-EFI Fuel Pump kit features a built in strainer in its inlet, so a pre-filter is not required.

This is from page 8 of the instruction manual:

http://www.fuelairspark.com/Instruct...-%20EZ-EFI.pdf

ToniH

OK, thats in order then

63Nova

I've also seen these efi systems.
http://www.mass-floefi.com/

but they are high dollar

7t2vette

So what are you doing for your fuel system? Are you going to use the braided lines, or are you going to run new hard lines or use the stock hard lines? This is my biggest dilema. I've heard that the new fuels available today eventually break down the soft lines, not sure if that also applies to the teflon lined versions.

ToniH

Well, this was a major dilemma for me too. Did some major research during the spring and talked with many people in the forums and face to face. Now I have reached a decision.

I would have used the factory hardlines but we cannot fit a flare tool to the rear end of the hard line. There is not just enough space. As we are dealing with high pressure I am not comfortable in using hose clamps. All connectors must be AN stuff. I feel making new hard lines at this time is not what i want to do while the body is on the frame. Alu lines would be easy but personally I would not trust them.

So, as Earl's and Aeroquip cannot quarantee their rubber hoses anymore but they are positive about their teflon hoses (which are also ok for aviation stuff) I chose to go with Earl's -8AN Speed Flex teflon hoses + Speed Seal hose ends. We will do it from rear to front with the same stuff.

I will install a Aeromotive 100 micron prefilter + fuel pump + main filter in line to the rear pretty much like yellow-fever did (+ the prefilter). But, we won't be using the stock fuel outlet from the tank. It will be plugged and we will drill a new hole to the tank bottom. There we will install a suitable connector + 90° AN elbow. From there teflon hose until we turn it 120° with another connector and into the prefilter. Then we will either use straight connectors between filters and the pump or maybe add a bit of hose to give it more flex. The details will be decided in situ when we are doing it. Fabbing a suitable brackets would mean we could use hard connectors without hoses.

The main long run of the hose will be drawn to the front where we again use a AN connector/elbow and turn it up to meet the fuel inlet kit. We plan to draw the hose up the firewall and from there to the fuel inlet.

I already have the hose which was a special order from our supplier and took ages to get. Now, I am just waiting for the connectors to arrive and then we will install the stuff. In fact i think I have all the other stuff but the teflon hose compatible connectors/hose ends.

This system should be good for many many years. And if I want to replace the hoses every nn years just to be on the safe side it will cost about 100-150USD per car (ie. one tank of gas here in Europe). Peanuts...

Ken Warner

Hope I don't offend here, I'm not a Vette owner but a friend of of mine just bought a 73 and I've been trolling your board looking for info to help him along. Couldn't resist giving my $.02 on tmy EZ-EFI experience.

First off I've got a 70 GS455 (470 actually) that dyno'd at 540hp and 570tq when it was put together a few years back. I hated swapping jets and really hated bumping the idle up so I could pop on the AC once in awhile during the summer. With the curve I run I could keep the idle about 900 in gear with the carb but when the A6 cycled on it would sometimes stall. If I put the idle up to about 1100 to keep the AC happy the car just sounded stupid at the local cruise-in. The EZ-EFI has an input for the AC and bumps up idle speed when needed.

For those of you on the fence about the EZ-EFI I absolutely LOVE mine. Only thing I have been less than crazy about is cold start up but after about the 12'th time you do a cold start up it gets its **** together and learns how to manage (unless you reset the tune like I did 1 time see below). Throttle response is better than the 950HP Biggs prepped carb I had, and I would have not thought that was possible. I replaced the tank with a new spectra premium unit that uses a standard GM style in tank pump. I then swapped their pump with one of the Walbro 340 style pumps and ran 6AN both ways. Used an Earls 30micon filter before the TBI and an Aeromotive regulator on the return side. I initially set the system at 50 psi but was running out of fuel at the top of 2nd gear. Bumped it up to 58 (60 is recommended max) and upgraded my charging system so I have an honest 14.5V at the pump then I reset the tune. Right now I have no fuel starvation issues, it starts like a champ cold or hot. Could not be happier.

Looks like the FAST kit with pump would be nice with the Vette's fuel tank arrangement. I'm not a fan of push lock fittings though and prefer regular -AN.

Hope some other users chime in here I'd be happy to discuss my experiences with the system.

regards

Ken Warner

Bee Jay

I just read this entire thread and I am impressed with this system. I am running an "antique" Holley TBI system and have about two years experience with aftermarket fi now. The self tuning, the under the butterfly injection, and the fuel pump shut off at 0 rpm has really impressed me. If I ever upgrade, this is the way I would go.
Bee Jay

7t2vette

No offence taken Ken, I appreciate your input!

Out of curiosity, what was happenning at the top of 2nd gear when you had the fuel pressure at 50psi?