krats4

This past winter I completed a frame off stock rebuild of my 1980. One of the items that I replaced was the steering controll valve because it leaked and there was a lot of play in the ball stud. To my surprise the rebuilt unit also has play in it. The steering wheel will move about 1-2". All other parts in the front suspension are new and tight. Is there any way to tighten the ball stud and remove this play?? Did I just get a bad part?? What do you guys think??

Thanks,
Ron S

MelWff

You can only check it with the engine running, do you have play with the engine running?

7T1vette

There is some "play" in that component, but it is not free-play. That movement is balanced against a spring which dampens the steering linkage movements and helps the control head to sense directional motion. This keeps the translated motion from the power assist cylinder smooth, rather than jerky.

krats4

Yes the play is with the engine running. I cannot drive the car safely, as it will dart around the road.

BTAL

Curious to the condition of your rear T/A bushings and other components? I ask because if they are worn out you will experience the same "darting" even with a perfect steering set up.

mrvette

Yes, obviously check for all the mechanicals, having a near ZERO play in all the joints....tie rods, struts, front and rear....

but then, after all that, what sort of wheel/tire combo you running??

if you have say 17" wheels on it, and wider, like 9.5" similar to the C4 rims I run on my '72....you will have that 'road wander' or tracking in the worn ruts of a freeway....the OEM size tires/wheels don't exhibit the problem,

upgrading wheels/tires will necessitate upgrading the steering....

Rally68

Is the car turning without steering input from you, or is there just a lot of slop in the wheel? Unless you have had the car in the air with someone else turning the wheel and seen the control valve ball stud deflecting with your own eyes, I think you need to make sure you don't have another problem. I'd be inclined to bet on the rag joint, steering box, or idler arm as more likely suspects.

One thing I can say for sure, having just rebuilt the valve on my '68, is that if in fact the control valve stud is moving that much in the housing, the valve is junk--get a refund

krats4

I have replaced everything on the front and rear suspension, rebuilt the steering box and rag joint. Even replaced the muffler bearings!!! This is all tight and I have had a 4 wheel alignment done. With the car in the the air and someone turning the steering wheel the only play is in the controll valve ball stud and there is no dought in my mind that this is the cause of the darting. (Stock tires).

Is it possible that someone just didn't tighten the ball stud in there properly??? I am out a few bucks to ship this back and down time so I am considering just dissaembling it to check it out. Of coarse then I own it so I am trying to decide what to do. Any suggestion will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Ron S

7T1vette

If the hoses are routed correctly, you went through the process to purge air from the P/S system, and then balanced the control valve there must be a problem with the control valve unit.