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Stalls out after fill up

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Old 05-02-2024, 08:47 AM
  #21  
Jasonsvette
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Originally Posted by 4-vettes
The vent line from the tank is a rubber line from the tank into the drivers side quarter panel. If you look around the rear tire you will see the steel line it hooks up with running along the top of the frame. Crawl under the rear quarter, drivers side. See the rubber line connected to the steel line. Unhook it right there. Just let that vent line breathe into the atmosphere.
Now, see what happens.
My charcoal canister got unhooked shortly after I bought my C3. It went along for the ride for 15 or 20 years until I finally yanked it out and binned it.
You do not need a charcoal canister. Cars from the 60's and older never had them. And they run fine.
some claim you'll get fuel smell in your garage without it. In all these years I've never had a issue.
Start by unhooking up in the rear quarter. That will eliminate any issues with the steel line and canister.
I'll try that next fill up. In the interim, I'll try blowing some compressed air through the lines and see if there's any blockage
Old 05-02-2024, 08:49 AM
  #22  
augiedoggy
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Originally Posted by Jasonsvette
​​​​​​
Im running the advance on manifold vacuum as per factory. There is actually no ported vacuum source on this carb. I know because I looked. I've had these debates between manifold and ported vacuum. My 70 455 Buick runs very well on ported. This engine seems to like manifold but in this case, I have no choice.

​​​​​​The only data that really counts is the plugs. They have color and the it runs well so I know the engine is fairly happy.
I doubt you want to go down this rabbit hole right now as its likely not related to your current issue but if you do a search here on adjusting the timing you will find many many testimonials from people claiming how changing the timing to the 33-36 degrees max advance (depending on head port design) with the vac temporarily disconnected and plugged while setting really wakes the engine up performance wise.
Old 05-02-2024, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Jasonsvette
I'll try that next fill up. In the interim, I'll try blowing some compressed air through the lines and see if there's any blockage
if it behaves the same way with your gas cap loose or removed this is not your issue.
Old 05-02-2024, 09:18 AM
  #24  
Jasonsvette
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Originally Posted by augiedoggy
if it behaves the same way with your gas cap loose or removed this is not your issue.
I almost want to go out and put more fuel in it right now. But it's almost like punching yourself in the *****.
Old 05-02-2024, 09:21 AM
  #25  
augiedoggy
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Originally Posted by Jasonsvette
I almost want to go out and put more fuel in it right now. But it's almost like punching yourself in the *****.
Ironically my 74 starts to run like crap as my tank get low... I also found if I park it outside when it rains I tend to get water in my tank. Even with a different correct fuel cap and an unplugged drain hose for the filler area.
Old 05-02-2024, 11:23 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Jasonsvette
​​​​​​
Im running the advance on manifold vacuum as per factory. There is actually no ported vacuum source on this carb. I know because I looked. I've had these debates between manifold and ported vacuum. My 70 455 Buick runs very well on ported. This engine seems to like manifold but in this case, I have no choice.

​​​​​​The only data that really counts is the plugs. They have color and the it runs well so I know the engine is fairly happy.
Well, I was hoping for a quick solution for you, that a ported vacuum source gave an extra 10-20 degrees of advance when the carb was cracked open. No such luck, if you are already on manifold vac, and your vac advance can is working properly.

I'm looking forward to seeing what the problem turns out to be! I had similar symptoms, and the issue was 100% timing (and my own fault for believing a diagram, and not testing with a vacuum gauge).
Old 05-02-2024, 01:04 PM
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Maybe something with the float in the tank? When it moves up maybe pinching something or disturbing something? Just throwing rocks here.

The length of time/miles between fill up and running smoothly might be important here. If it’s short, like a few minutes and a few miles, then not likely to be fuel level in the tank related, since the level doesn’t change that much in a few miles.

Boy these old cars sure like to play stump the mechanic, don’t they?
Old 05-03-2024, 10:01 AM
  #28  
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I had a similar problem with a GM car that had a Quadrajet. Seem the tank had alot of crap in it. Would plug the carb inlet filter, being it is spring loaded, it would plug than push open clearing somewhat to give fuel. (Not sure if that was happening) Off we would go. Fill it up, problem would return. Only thing that solved the problem was a new tank. With my 68 vette, you can look at 99% of the tank bottom. Just my 2 cents worth
Old 05-04-2024, 12:04 PM
  #29  
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Not sure if the OP stated this yet...but how old and in what condition is the actual gas tank??? Rust, debris, unknown ufos??? On my '70 I have a newer tank. At one point, I had to remove and seal off the fuel separator valve (it was leaking), and also removed all return hoses and the charcoal evap canister up front. I use a vented gas cap now without issues. I don't have to pass smog tests, so no emission controls works. Regarding OP's problem, If it's not something wrong with the fuel tank, could be a new fuel filter and maybe a fuel pump is needed...Just things to ponder...

Last edited by RetroGuy; 05-04-2024 at 12:10 PM.
Old 05-04-2024, 04:12 PM
  #30  
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I think there's a saying that @lars uses that says something to the effect of if you think it's the carb....it's most likely timing.....
Old 05-05-2024, 09:16 PM
  #31  
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I think I figured it out. I think it was an excessive amount of water in the tank. Which seems to be a real issue on this car even after cleaning the crap out of that stupid drain hose and rubber gutter around the fill

WHat I did past couple of days was put like 4 or 5 gallons and running it to fumes. It got progressively better. The last fill, the problem disappeared. I think that there was an excessive amount in there and filling the tank just made it fall to the bottom of the tank. Filling it with 4 or 5 gallons and running it till it was on empty (I think) kept the water suspended and I able to burn it through the engine....I think.

We'll see. The car sits outside, so next rainstorm I'm going to put a rubber mat over the filler.

Sometimes I overthink stuff. Sometimes the simplest answers are the right ones.

​​​

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Old 05-05-2024, 09:26 PM
  #32  
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I hope you are right.
Old 05-05-2024, 09:30 PM
  #33  
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Excellent! So it was a quick solution, except for building a garage.
Old 05-05-2024, 09:54 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Bikespace
Excellent! So it was a quick solution, except for building a garage.
My Buick has the garage spot lol
Old 05-05-2024, 10:45 PM
  #35  
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How did Any water get in the tank at all?
Old 05-05-2024, 11:36 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Alwyn678
How did Any water get in the tank at all?
Ive had the same thing happen. Even went out and bought the correct "sealed" cap and made sure my drain hose is clear.
Old 05-05-2024, 11:45 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by augiedoggy
Ive had the same thing happen. Even went out and bought the correct "sealed" cap and made sure my drain hose is clear.
Same here. Sprayed brake kleen down the hose and used compressed air to blow it out. Still got water in the tank. A strong downpour overpowers the hose and backs up over the gas cap. I was going to try a new sealed cap to see if that would help but you pretty much answered that for me

Now to figure out the slight bind in the drive line on take off. Thinking it's got a tight u joint. Driveshaft looks like fun to remove....

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Old 05-06-2024, 02:45 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Jasonsvette
My Buick has the garage spot lol
This one is EASY!
BUICK,
OUTSIDE!
NOW!
Corvette deserves the garage!
Buick is just a Buick. Corvette's are special!
Old 05-06-2024, 06:12 AM
  #39  
augiedoggy
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Originally Posted by Jasonsvette
Same here. Sprayed brake kleen down the hose and used compressed air to blow it out. Still got water in the tank. A strong downpour overpowers the hose and backs up over the gas cap. I was going to try a new sealed cap to see if that would help but you pretty much answered that for me

Now to figure out the slight bind in the drive line on take off. Thinking it's got a tight u joint. Driveshaft looks like fun to remove....
That is what happened to me ...strong downpour and my car was outside. What do you mean by bind? If you mean a pop like the type you can feel pay attention to see if its worse when turning like in a driveway or parking lot. if so you need to add more posi additive for the clutchpacks in the rear end. Ive been there too and know 2 others that had the same issue.
Old 05-06-2024, 06:14 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Jasonsvette
Same here. Sprayed brake kleen down the hose and used compressed air to blow it out. Still got water in the tank. A strong downpour overpowers the hose and backs up over the gas cap. I was going to try a new sealed cap to see if that would help but you pretty much answered that for me

Now to figure out the slight bind in the drive line on take off. Thinking it's got a tight u joint. Driveshaft looks like fun to remove....
That is what happened to me ...strong downpour and my car was outside. (breathable car cover didnt help either. My car is back in the garage now.

What do you mean by bind? If you mean a pop like the type you can feel pay attention to see if its worse when turning like in a driveway or parking lot. if so you need to add more posi additive for the clutchpacks in the rear end. Ive been there too and know 2 others that had the same issue.


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