Front Coil Spring Removal Question
03-27-2011, 10:28 AM
#21
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
I just finished my front end on my '75 Corvette. This included upper/lower control arm bushings (poly), ball joints, sway bar bushings and links, and tie rod boots.
As a newbie enthusiast I did lean on my friend who is a mechanic to remove and press in the new shells on my control arms. I was able to remove and reinstall the spring without a compressor but I had the luxury of a big 3-ton floor jack and I let the jack down so slowly that you could barely see it dropping. I paid specific attention to the pocket in the frame and the lower control arm and using similar patience the springs went in very easily.
I'm going to purchase a spring compressor just to add to my tools.
When I called my local Goodyear Tire/Repair store, I found out that I saved myself $650+ in labor by doing this myself. I do this to put some perspective on the educational process and to track this versus the cost of my project.
Bottom line: go for it. If I can replace my front end which included the removal and re-installation of the coil springs.....then you can certainly do it. BE CAREFUL!!!!
As a newbie enthusiast I did lean on my friend who is a mechanic to remove and press in the new shells on my control arms. I was able to remove and reinstall the spring without a compressor but I had the luxury of a big 3-ton floor jack and I let the jack down so slowly that you could barely see it dropping. I paid specific attention to the pocket in the frame and the lower control arm and using similar patience the springs went in very easily.
I'm going to purchase a spring compressor just to add to my tools.
When I called my local Goodyear Tire/Repair store, I found out that I saved myself $650+ in labor by doing this myself. I do this to put some perspective on the educational process and to track this versus the cost of my project.
Bottom line: go for it. If I can replace my front end which included the removal and re-installation of the coil springs.....then you can certainly do it. BE CAREFUL!!!!
Sounds like you did well!I chickened out and paid the $410 to have mine done. Then they put one in backasswards...... So I then paid a different shop another $110 to remove it, turn it right side UP, and reinstall. Watching the second shop do it, I started kicking my ownself for not attempting it. Looked pretty straight forward by the write-ups on this thread. Next time I'll do it my ownself and save the $$$.
03-27-2011, 12:28 PM
#22
Instructor
Thanks Mikejpss.
The tear down was by far the hardest part. I had to work through decades of filth. Went through half a box of latex gloves. A compressor and air tools helped me power through that a great deal.
The digital camera came in handy, which sounds like the first shop should have used. I feel lucky that I have this forum, and it's great members, and a local shop with someone with specific Corvette experience.
Cheers.
The tear down was by far the hardest part. I had to work through decades of filth. Went through half a box of latex gloves. A compressor and air tools helped me power through that a great deal.
The digital camera came in handy, which sounds like the first shop should have used. I feel lucky that I have this forum, and it's great members, and a local shop with someone with specific Corvette experience.
Cheers.
03-27-2011, 05:35 PM
#23
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How much of a task is it to remove the front coil springs (and reinstall)?
My shop manual says to raise vehicle on hoist, then remove the shock (easy), then when it gets to the spring part, it says:
"With the vehicle supported so that the control arms hang free, place Tool J-23028 into position cradling the inner bushings. Tool J-23028 should be secured to a suitable jack."
What exactly is a "Tool J-23028"?
I am planning on cutting my coils 3/4 round to get a 1.5"- 2" drop.
Any advice or shared experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
My shop manual says to raise vehicle on hoist, then remove the shock (easy), then when it gets to the spring part, it says:
"With the vehicle supported so that the control arms hang free, place Tool J-23028 into position cradling the inner bushings. Tool J-23028 should be secured to a suitable jack."
What exactly is a "Tool J-23028"?
I am planning on cutting my coils 3/4 round to get a 1.5"- 2" drop.
Any advice or shared experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Pepe
03-27-2011, 07:26 PM
#24
Drifting
I recently removed mine for the first time. Best advice that I can give is go to youtube and see an actual video of it being done. Will make you more confident when doing it and is more informative than reading an explanation.
03-28-2011, 10:24 AM
#25
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I see this is an old thread revisited and was surprised nobody picked up on the procedure and tools described by jvette near the beginning. His method is both safe and cheap. I used it and here are some pics.
After tightening the nuts to hold the spring you can disconnect at the frame or ball joint and then unscrew the nut at the top to lower the spring...reverse the procedure after installing the new spring. The top nut will pull, compress, the spring back to same point...SAFELY...just make sure, before the spring starts compressing, that it is seated properly in the lower and upper a-arms.
After tightening the nuts to hold the spring you can disconnect at the frame or ball joint and then unscrew the nut at the top to lower the spring...reverse the procedure after installing the new spring. The top nut will pull, compress, the spring back to same point...SAFELY...just make sure, before the spring starts compressing, that it is seated properly in the lower and upper a-arms.
03-28-2011, 10:36 AM
#26
Instructor
Great pics....and thanks... Can the spring be replaced or removed by compressing it with both arms attached to the spindle or does the lower need to be dropped?
Stupid question.....but consider that I'm asking it... ;-)
Stupid question.....but consider that I'm asking it... ;-)
03-28-2011, 08:13 PM
#27
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Yes, you can unbolt the lower arm at the frame and leave both arms attached to the spindle. Tightening the top nut on the 5/8" bolt until spring is just starting to compress. Then unbolt lower arm at the frame. Lower spring and arm by backing off the top nut (be sure the lower nut stays put, or double nut it to hold it tight) until the spring is slack and can be removed. Reverse procedure to install new spring.
