Hole/crack in floorboard
#1
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What are you guys using to fix hole and cracks in the floorboard of a C4? I know it is made of SMC, so you have to be careful with which resin you use.
I think I have the general idea of how to fix it. I'm looking at doing the repair on the inside. You sand down the top edge of the hole. Then for the cracks, you dig out a groove in the crack. Then you put the resin into the crack. I've also heard you drill a small hole at the end of the crack to keep it from spreading?
And for the hole, you dab some resin around the hole then lay your resin soaked cloth or mat onto the hole with an over lap of one inch. Then you put on another layer that is an inch bigger than the first layer. How long do you wait till you put the second layer on?
On mine, I found a hole/crack in the front left passenger floorboard corner. Here's a pic of the inside and outside:
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c40/joshwilson3/CIMG3673.jpg)
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c40/joshwilson3/CIMG3679.jpg)
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c40/joshwilson3/CIMG3681.jpg)
To the left of the hole:
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c40/joshwilson3/CIMG3989.jpg)
It goes on a little more:
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c40/joshwilson3/CIMG3988.jpg)
I went ahead and busted out the loose pieces in the hole. I probably need to bust out a little more at the top of the hole:
I think I have the general idea of how to fix it. I'm looking at doing the repair on the inside. You sand down the top edge of the hole. Then for the cracks, you dig out a groove in the crack. Then you put the resin into the crack. I've also heard you drill a small hole at the end of the crack to keep it from spreading?
And for the hole, you dab some resin around the hole then lay your resin soaked cloth or mat onto the hole with an over lap of one inch. Then you put on another layer that is an inch bigger than the first layer. How long do you wait till you put the second layer on?
On mine, I found a hole/crack in the front left passenger floorboard corner. Here's a pic of the inside and outside:
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c40/joshwilson3/CIMG3673.jpg)
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c40/joshwilson3/CIMG3679.jpg)
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c40/joshwilson3/CIMG3681.jpg)
To the left of the hole:
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c40/joshwilson3/CIMG3989.jpg)
It goes on a little more:
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c40/joshwilson3/CIMG3988.jpg)
I went ahead and busted out the loose pieces in the hole. I probably need to bust out a little more at the top of the hole:
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c40/joshwilson3/CIMG4000.jpg)
#2
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Josh, go find somebody in your area that does fiberglass work on boats and offer to be their unpaid assistant and do whatever they ask of you (apprentice). And, make sure you ask all the (dumb) questions that you might think are stupid (they aren't). And the guy that knows what he's doing will explain it to you because he knows you are intereted in leaning. And, depending on the quality of the teacher, it may not be pleasant but remember that your sole purpose is to learn all you can on how to fix fiberglass. It is not brain surgery but those that know how to do it can show you the best ways to do it.
Perhaps if you and they hit it off, they will fix the car for you. Or. they will supervise you in fixing it yourself and then you'll be the "expert".
Or, you can just "damn the torpedos... "
Perhaps if you and they hit it off, they will fix the car for you. Or. they will supervise you in fixing it yourself and then you'll be the "expert".
Or, you can just "damn the torpedos... "
#3
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Josh, go find somebody in your area that does fiberglass work on boats and offer to be their unpaid assistant and do whatever they ask of you (apprentice). And, make sure you ask all the (dumb) questions that you might think are stupid (they aren't). And the guy that knows what he's doing will explain it to you because he knows you are intereted in leaning. And, depending on the quality of the teacher, it may not be pleasant but remember that your sole purpose is to learn all you can on how to fix fiberglass. It is not brain surgery but those that know how to do it can show you the best ways to do it.
Perhaps if you and they hit it off, they will fix the car for you. Or. they will supervise you in fixing it yourself and then you'll be the "expert".
Or, you can just "damn the torpedos... "
Perhaps if you and they hit it off, they will fix the car for you. Or. they will supervise you in fixing it yourself and then you'll be the "expert".
Or, you can just "damn the torpedos... "
It is a little irritating though, as originally. I ran new speaker wire, so I had the kick panels off. I had noticed the hood seal was leaking water. And I decided while I was running water on the windshield, I'd look to see if any water was leaking inside. Yup, I found a few firewall leaks. Spent 2 months figuring that out and fixing the leaks. Then pulled the carpet and noticed it was all wet underneath. So, I figured I'd have to now pull the carpet to clean that all up. Then one time I lifted the carpet, I noticed the hole/crack. Haha. I'll probably find something else next.
#4
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If it's a driver and not a show car, would a little roofing tar on the outside (underneath) work? I may be looking at the same thing with mine.
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Dura - Mix and Dura- Bond (3M ) have a repair kit which is used for bumpers that is designed for SCM.
There is also a fiberglass kit that comes with the resin and catalyst and the mat.
It will work if you prep the area. You will need to remove any undercoating sand the area .
Apply Resin to the patch area with a 1 inch paint brush. Then apply your mat, take your paint brush and dab the mat until it is saturated, wait a few minutes and apply more mat, then take your brush and work more resin onto the new layer. the repeat until you get the desired thickness.
If you can get some fiberglass cloth I would make that my first layer, then follow up with mat
There is also a fiberglass kit that comes with the resin and catalyst and the mat.
It will work if you prep the area. You will need to remove any undercoating sand the area .
Apply Resin to the patch area with a 1 inch paint brush. Then apply your mat, take your paint brush and dab the mat until it is saturated, wait a few minutes and apply more mat, then take your brush and work more resin onto the new layer. the repeat until you get the desired thickness.
If you can get some fiberglass cloth I would make that my first layer, then follow up with mat
#7
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Dura - Mix and Dura- Bond (3M ) have a repair kit which is used for bumpers that is designed for SCM.
There is also a fiberglass kit that comes with the resin and catalyst and the mat.
It will work if you prep the area. You will need to remove any undercoating sand the area .
Apply Resin to the patch area with a 1 inch paint brush. Then apply your mat, take your paint brush and dab the mat until it is saturated, wait a few minutes and apply more mat, then take your brush and work more resin onto the new layer. the repeat until you get the desired thickness.
If you can get some fiberglass cloth I would make that my first layer, then follow up with mat
There is also a fiberglass kit that comes with the resin and catalyst and the mat.
It will work if you prep the area. You will need to remove any undercoating sand the area .
Apply Resin to the patch area with a 1 inch paint brush. Then apply your mat, take your paint brush and dab the mat until it is saturated, wait a few minutes and apply more mat, then take your brush and work more resin onto the new layer. the repeat until you get the desired thickness.
If you can get some fiberglass cloth I would make that my first layer, then follow up with mat
Do I need a die grinder like I've seen mentioned, or could I use something else?
#8
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Go by the local Sears or Home Depot and get a straight "router bit" and/or a Grinder bit - aluminum oxide type that you can chuck in your drill. Lots of options but you dont want something too agressive. There is also a strraight "router bit" that's made for "Dremel Tools". It's about 1/8th inch in diameter that you can put in a drill. Or, for about 80 bucks you can but a cordless Dremel tool Kit that will come with several cutting and grinding accessories. See the link, available at Home Depot/Lowes, etc.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pa...px?pid=8000-03
I buy the reinforced cutoff wheels in bulk and use the Dremel for all sorts of repair work where cutting/grinding etc is needed. I couldn't live without my Dremel Tool!
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pa...px?pid=8000-03
I buy the reinforced cutoff wheels in bulk and use the Dremel for all sorts of repair work where cutting/grinding etc is needed. I couldn't live without my Dremel Tool!
#9
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Go by the local Sears or Home Depot and get a straight "router bit" and/or a Grinder bit - aluminum oxide type that you can chuck in your drill. Lots of options but you dont want something too agressive. There is also a strraight "router bit" that's made for "Dremel Tools". It's about 1/8th inch in diameter that you can put in a drill. Or, for about 80 bucks you can but a cordless Dremel tool Kit that will come with several cutting and grinding accessories. See the link, available at Home Depot/Lowes, etc.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pa...px?pid=8000-03
I buy the reinforced cutoff wheels in bulk and use the Dremel for all sorts of repair work where cutting/grinding etc is needed. I couldn't live without my Dremel Tool!
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pa...px?pid=8000-03
I buy the reinforced cutoff wheels in bulk and use the Dremel for all sorts of repair work where cutting/grinding etc is needed. I couldn't live without my Dremel Tool!
What grit should I go with? And I take it I'll still need to sand a couple of inches around the hole and around the crack. What grit for that?