DarkBlue88

Looks like the T56 is going to fit well for you. I have that same shifter and handle in my Z28, bought it from the same seller. Shifts good but reverse is tough. You may find it high effort, I do. I went the T5 route because I have the Z with the T56, and I didn't want to mess with rear gears, and keep using either 3.07 or my old 2.59 if the 3.07 poops out. This is finished, tilted like F-Body and stock Hurst shifter. It's about 2" forward of the stocker, but is in a good spot with the stiffer reproduction seat foams.

DanZ51

DarkBlue you're an inspiration for all us (trans) swappers.

I didn't think the Hurst was too "high effort" doing a dry shift, but time will tell. Hurst does tell you how to remove one of the springs if it is too stiff.

The pictures make it appear like it's in the correct position straight up from the tower; it's not. It definately need to move over to the driver to clear the console. As it is now, the base of the shifter is right in between the edge of the boot and the cup holders.

The base of the Hurst comes up so high I won't be able to make a bolt-on adapter. The base has to be cut just below the bottom shifter handle bolt hole. I'll pull it apart tomorrow and see if I can make a little TIG love.

DanZ51

Today's adventure:

My brand new Hurst shifter, that's a bit too tall. First a little exploritory....


I don't know what Hurst makes these out of but it gave my portable band saw hell. Nothing like cutting up band new parts.


The end result. Don't critique my welds too much. I still practicing TIG and that cadium plating likes to contaminate clean welds. I'll clean it up after it cools some.




PS: does any one know the fitting size for the '86 clutch master cylinder? Someone thought it might be 10Mx1.0 I got know to connect my Vette master to Camaro slave.

87bob

I now have the bare block and T-56 in the car. Pictures to follow.

DanZ51

Today's crowning achievement: (I'm still patting myself on the back for this one) (I even managed to get it all back together after the surgery)




Out of time for today.

87bob

What the heck????? Lift that boot so we can see what you did underneath it. That looks good!!!! Since I only have a semiround stub shaft what did you do to connect it to the shifter?

DanZ51

Bob, look at the picture before last.
That was the shifter stub right after I finished welding it (DAMN HOT). Cleaned it up, slathered a little paint on it to replace the cadium plating I burned off and put it back together. That pin that crosses the shaft (that holds the pivot ball halves) I had to press it off to get the cover plate back on (then press it back in). The little rubber boot even went back on without an issue.

Now to fix some wiring issues.

USAsOnlyWay

I believe this is what I used...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-670420/

87bob

two inches!




After sitting for over 10 fregging years I'm back working on this car YEEEEEEE HAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! As Larry the Cable Guys says GIIT ER DONE!

Tonight I got the "C" chanel beam trimed and in place. I need a transfer punch to mark the hole location in the adapter bracket. I ordered my shifter from McLeod. Please hurry "Brown"

DanZ51

Bob, I hope that Mcleod shifter works out for you. I can tell you that to clear the console lid that offset has to be LOW.

On drilling the (Pro Strret) adapter, I just eyeballed and center punched the two bottom holes. I then measured the center punch marks and transferred like center marks for the top of the beam. I seems like it worked out OK (I know for sure after my first test drive).

10 years it a long time to be waitin'. I've own my '86 for twenty years now. Last year I only put maybe 40 miles on it fighting that damn 4+3

87bob

Well I finished up the install of the T-56. I have all my holes drilled. The trans is mounted to the "C" chanel. I will be getting my shifter sometime in the next two weeks. Once I mock it all up I'm going to pull it all apart to fine tune the modifications, get the trans gone through by the guys at RPM and powder coated. Yes the shifter is very low profile if you check out the photos it shows that the shifter base is almost even with the top of the shifter housing.



Mine will have just a straight 2" offset to the left. Thanks to all who participated in this venture.

DanZ51

Buttoning up the dash and console: yes, I'm excited.

Oh ya, I found battery cable gauge shrink tubing made the perfect seal between the shifter shaft and the stock leather boot.

Nothing left of the ashtrays. If you look close, that's my Dakota Digital SGI-5 in the rear (ashtray) recess.


I whipped up a platic cover to hide the ugly-ness. A clear window to see the LED on the SGI-5 beneath.


I'm still waiting for my braided AN line and fittings show up so I can connect the clutch master to the new slave.
On to the exhaust....

DarkBlue88

Boot and plate in relation to shifter placement looks really good Dan. Does the Dakota box work?

DanZ51

I hope so. Unfortunately I haven't been able to test nor dial-it-in yet. The old L98 exhaust won't clear the T56. So I'll be doin' alot more cobbin'

I just ordered some mandrel bent tubing cause the local parts house crimp bent tubing looked like crap. My budget is kinda limited right now so it will be a modified stock exhaust (SS headers and Corsas are out).

87bob

I have finished the test fitting of the T-56. I have the McLoed shifter with a 2" left off set. I have rer-purposed the orginal shifter I am going to use the overdrive button in the head of the shifter for the reverse lockout solenoid. I have a shiftboot ordered from Summit to cover the hole in the floor. Tomorrow I head off to RPM transmissions to get the T-56 overhauled. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that they'll not find any major problems. Till I get it back I have a hole to patch, cleaning, and painting to do. I did not run into any major problems and I'd do it again in a heart beat. As I do the clean up and patching I'll get some photos.

DanZ51

Keep posting Bob!

I got mine buttoned up and rollin'. The Dakota Digital is dialed in with some help from member LD85 (hint: the Vette wants an AC signal). Fabbed up a budget free-flow exhuast to clear the T56 with some mandrel bent pipe from Summit and my welder.

Unfortunately, my cheap T56 had a bad 5/6 syncro, so yesterday she went back up on the stands again. A $140 later and I'm waiting for parts to slap this baby together (try that with your ZF )

The T56 is a sweet shifting trans (1-4 worked great).

87bob

Today I went to see Jeremy at RPM. Good news bad news of sorts. No major damage in the trans. Two gears needed replacing they were the ones with the small teeth on the edge. They are going to do a level 4 upgrade.

LEVEL IV T56 six speed build which includes
Media blast transmission case
Solid synchronizer keys
Steel 3-4 shifter fork
Hand fit sliders and hubs
New Compressed Carbon blocking rings
bronze shifter bushing
bronze fork pads
Performance Metal Micropolish
After all this it will shift like butter and my competition will be toast.

Now to get the car ready for the transplant. More later!

Oh and if your ever thinking of beefing your T-56 call this guys they know their chit!

dclafleur

Sounds great guys, I'm looking forward to putting my t56 in this winter. Did both of you guys use the mcleod hydraulic throwout bearing?

DanZ51

Nope, I'm still sportin' the Camaro slave cylinder. Thanks to USAsOnlyWay help in ID'ing the Corvette's master cylinder fitting. Some pre made AN-3 line and the slave special fitting http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640281/

I've only put about 30 miles on it so far, but the clutch pedal feels fine. Someone mentioned that the Corvette master is bigger (than the Camaro) and could make the clutch touchy; I didn't notice it. When I get the trans sorted out, I'll get some more miles under her and see if I can give you a definitive answer.

87bob

I Plan to use the Mcleod throwout bearing. But I have heard that a LS1 set up can be modified when I get more details I'll post them. The best of all options would be to use standard GM parts be they from a 4th Gen Camaro or a Corvette that way parts availibility is almost assured.