dizwiz24

0409Htp Snow 09 Z Photo 9

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com.../photo_09.html

I want to convert my fuel rails to support eventual big forced induction HP. Im already running 2 fuel pumps.

Does anyone know anyone who is modifying lt1 fuel rails like this?

I can weld steel, but Im really a little nervous about welding aluminum fuel rails. Id be afraid id put too much heat history into them or end up w/ a pinhole leak somewhere.

Thanks!

oldalaskaman

the words that I read in that pages were 'if you're making big power" if not , its some serious overkill

DVNCI

When I did my solid rear my chassis guy modified mine:




I considered going the route shown in your link, but frankly there are some pretty high horsepower cars running non-modified rails, and it's hard to make the true dual line setup like you show "clean" looking - mine looks factory more or less (actually cleaner).


I don't know the first thing about welding, be it steel or aluminum, but if your weren't comfortable doing it I would think someone could do it pretty cheap for you.

LD85

Your are net welding are you, just tapping a hole on the end of the rail?

Mr. Peabody

You already recognize that TIG welding aluminum is a little different than working with steel. It is very easy to burn through the aluminum. It would be wise to find someone experienced in doing it.

We build these boats as turn-key custom units manufactured completely out of aluminum.

http://www.kvichak.com/

THE 383 admiral

why would you pay to weld them.. when -an fittings are standard coarse thread..
just tap thread the rails counter sink the ends for o-rings

dizwiz24

Still have to weld shut the crossover. Why not weld it alltogether ? Expecially on an item that if it leaks it causes a fire

THE 383 admiral

Still can tap thread the crossover
P.S. if you strip the weld on -AN, now you have a time consuming repair

twin540

Maybe this can help

87bob

I need to do that to my fuel rails can you send me some more info? Like what size are the an fittings you used? Did you have a shop do the drill and tap? One of my rails has a crimped line in it how is the best way to remove it? Do I just use a dremmel grinder and remove the crimp?

RVY

This brings back memories. My rails are drilled and tapped. Fed by dual fuel lines and pumps. Feeds 598 rwhp. This engines twin with the addition of nitrous puts out 786+ rwhp. It's necessary

LT1inaMGB

I'm interested as well. Did you countersink the hole in the fuel rail for the O ring to seat in? What size O ring did you use?

THE 383 admiral

To start the threads. I put my tap in my drill press. I also have a duel micro adjust table with a vise clamped in.. I dialed the table to center the fuel rail. then completed by hand.. you can use a 45 deg or 60 deg counter sink for the tapered ends.. just keep checking with the oring on the fitting till the correct depth is reached... The oring size is 1/8 inch and just needs to be snug on the shoulder of the 3/4 -an fitting 6 or 8 -an for your fuel lines your preference
And yes.. drill out the factory crimp on the oe rail

5abivt

I think you can just look for an experienced welder or shoppe its relatively simple. mine were done like 8 years ago and i forget what size AN fittings we used. needed to the room to put a small cap dizzy back there .

THE 383 admiral

that costs money if you do not have a tig. If the fitting gets damaged
You need to cut & clean and pay again for a re-weld
It's a 3/4 in tap tread it... It's aluminum very easy