Newb question
05-29-2024, 10:02 AM
#21
Melting Slicks
I know others have advised against it. But I pull the hood off when I pull the engine with the transmission. In my garage it gives my way more room to work. Also with the hood off it gives you more room to pressure wash the engine bay if you want. I've done it both ways. And I prefer to pull it with the hood off. But YMMV.
05-29-2024, 10:23 AM
#22
Melting Slicks
I to agree with one of the above post to pull without all the facts, there many options on rebuilding.
But are other things that can cause many of your problems so I would do the take apart diagnosis, pull plugs compression test, while plugs are out blow out cylinders. Even though you're not the kind of guy to have Carbon in your motor you might and it could have broken a chunk off and wedged a valve or is just banging around. À shattered Cat. Converter makes a Hell of a racket.
But are other things that can cause many of your problems so I would do the take apart diagnosis, pull plugs compression test, while plugs are out blow out cylinders. Even though you're not the kind of guy to have Carbon in your motor you might and it could have broken a chunk off and wedged a valve or is just banging around. À shattered Cat. Converter makes a Hell of a racket.
05-30-2024, 11:49 AM
#23
Sounds like the money shift is a pretty safe bet that it toasted a bearing. But, to pull the motor you have to pull the exhaust anyway so may as well drop the pan and see what is going on. Remove the oil level sensor before dropping the pan or it will break. You can try wiggling the rods to see if one has play, but if none wiggle around still pull each rod cap.
I’ve pulled the motor 3 times and always from the side with hood on, remove trans and flywheel too for best clearance. I do use the happy hooker so no need for a load leveler. Pull the oil sender off the back of the block so you don’t break them on the way out.
I’ve pulled the motor 3 times and always from the side with hood on, remove trans and flywheel too for best clearance. I do use the happy hooker so no need for a load leveler. Pull the oil sender off the back of the block so you don’t break them on the way out.
06-05-2024, 09:00 PM
#24
Racer
Thread Starter
Wow. I forgot about my mail for a few days, and look what happens. I'll have to respond individually. There's way too much info on the posts to answer all at once.
06-05-2024, 09:48 PM
#25
Racer
Thread Starter
Why do you want to remove the engine out? I'd make the right diagnostic first. If you suspect a connecting rod, take off an oil pan and check the bearings. Or, at least flush the oil and see if there is bearings in it (big metal particles). Measure compression in the cylinders. Put some gas to the cylinders and see if it remains there after 15 minutes. Use an endoscope to check the cylinder walls and valves. Tons of methods.
Even with bad bearings, you can replace them with having engine in the bay. You can even replace heads and pistons while having the engine in the bay. The only limitation is that you can't take off the crankshaft while the transmission is connected, and it might be hard (but possible) to measure crankshaft journals. But you'd notice a bad journal, and would feel it with a new (a sibling) bearing and torqued cap - the crankshaft will rotate stiffly.
Even with bad bearings, you can replace them with having engine in the bay. You can even replace heads and pistons while having the engine in the bay. The only limitation is that you can't take off the crankshaft while the transmission is connected, and it might be hard (but possible) to measure crankshaft journals. But you'd notice a bad journal, and would feel it with a new (a sibling) bearing and torqued cap - the crankshaft will rotate stiffly.
My oil looks kinda greyish now. Not water
Not milkshake. Like it's a very, very finely powdered substance had been added and dissolved in the oil. It's the color of bearing material. I have not yet drained the oil because I have had to move the car in and out of the garage.
I just rented a compression tester from AutoZone. I need to get the headers off to be able to get to all of the plug holes, which means removing a bunch of things. I will do that this weekend. As a start.
What do you mean about putting gas in the cylinders. Air? A leakdown test?
I have an endoscope. It's small enough to fit through a plug hole, but I won't be able to check the valves. Can I pull the rods and pistons out through the bottom by rotating the crankshaft out of the way? That would let me see the valves and cylinders all the way to the top. I could check for a wear ridge, too. I'd rather not pull the heads off I can avoid it. Although, I'm thinking of replacing the lifters and pushrods, (and maybe cam). I guess everything would already be out of the way and it would be easy. We'll see.
Is it possible to remove the crank with the engine in the car, if the trans is removed? I wonder if I'd be making it far more difficult that way. I mean, I already have an engine hoist.
06-05-2024, 09:50 PM
#26
Racer
Thread Starter
I know others have advised against it. But I pull the hood off when I pull the engine with the transmission. In my garage it gives my way more room to work. Also with the hood off it gives you more room to pressure wash the engine bay if you want. I've done it both ways. And I prefer to pull it with the hood off. But YMMV.
06-05-2024, 09:53 PM
#27
Racer
Thread Starter
I to agree with one of the above post to pull without all the facts, there many options on rebuilding.
But are other things that can cause many of your problems so I would do the take apart diagnosis, pull plugs compression test, while plugs are out blow out cylinders. Even though you're not the kind of guy to have Carbon in your motor you might and it could have broken a chunk off and wedged a valve or is just banging around. À shattered Cat. Converter makes a Hell of a racket.
But are other things that can cause many of your problems so I would do the take apart diagnosis, pull plugs compression test, while plugs are out blow out cylinders. Even though you're not the kind of guy to have Carbon in your motor you might and it could have broken a chunk off and wedged a valve or is just banging around. À shattered Cat. Converter makes a Hell of a racket.
06-05-2024, 10:02 PM
#28
Racer
Thread Starter
Sounds like the money shift is a pretty safe bet that it toasted a bearing. But, to pull the motor you have to pull the exhaust anyway so may as well drop the pan and see what is going on. Remove the oil level sensor before dropping the pan or it will break. You can try wiggling the rods to see if one has play, but if none wiggle around still pull each rod cap.
I’ve pulled the motor 3 times and always from the side with hood on, remove trans and flywheel too for best clearance. I do use the happy hooker so no need for a load leveler. Pull the oil sender off the back of the block so you don’t break them on the way out.
I’ve pulled the motor 3 times and always from the side with hood on, remove trans and flywheel too for best clearance. I do use the happy hooker so no need for a load leveler. Pull the oil sender off the back of the block so you don’t break them on the way out.
I'm replacing the oil level sensor anyway, because it's been giving false low level lights. I already have the replacement. However, it's good to know that it has to be removed before the pan is dropped, and reinstalled after the pan is back on.
What's the happy hooker?
How do I remove the oil pressure sensor from the rear of the block? I can't see it with the engine in.
06-05-2024, 10:06 PM
#29
Racer
Thread Starter
Do I have to disconnect the motor mounts to lift the engine up far enough to check all of the bearings? If I do, I'm not sure why I wouldn't just lift it out if it's already disconnected from the car. It doesn't look like there's room to remove it with the mounts still attached, though.