Gasnmyveins

I've never taken an engine out of a Corvette. Mine is a 94 6 speed. I was at the dragstrip and accidentally went from 2nd back into 1st. On the way home, the fuel mileage dropped to 20 and it began to run really rough. A code said I had voltage issues, which I'm guessing means I over-revved my alternator. It would also explain the rubber squealing sounds I heard if the bearing was starting to go. That would be easy. But... I also started hearing a rod knock probably in the #7 cylinder. The car has been autocrossed a lot before I got it. It has been to Sebring as well, so it makes sense to tear it down and really check it out.
So, my question is, what's the best way to take the engine out? A qwik jack came with the car, so that helps a lot. Is it best to just take off the intake, then the headers and heads? Does that free up the space I need to get it out, and to more easily clear the hood? Or am I a victim of wishful thinking?

ChumpVette

My technique.

get car in air on 4 Jack stands.
remove exhaust
remove c-beam driveshaft
remove trans
remove bellhousing and clutch

Moveup top and start disconnecting everything else
LT1 I usually get the intake off.

Remove front wheel, use engine hoist and come in from the side. I prefer the passenger side.

Engine out and on stand

Faceman89

I pulled a L98 C4 engine back in the mid 90’s. I do remember the exhaust manifolds came off first followed by the y pipe for install convenience. Torque converter was unbolted then the bell housing bolts. Motor mounts were unbolted, radiator and fan removed. Upper plenum and runners removed (won’t have to in your situation)…..then a cherry picker lifted her out. Of coarse the AC, PS and what not were also unhooked. We didn’t remove the clamshell. Takes patience. Not sure if there is an adapter plate for the LT intake.

Gasnmyveins

Well, this is why you ask questions first. I was thinking I could remove it with the trans in place. When I think about it, I think I understand why it needs to come out.
Would you explain why a wheel needs to come off? And why you prefer the passenger side?

Faceman89

Wheels off will let you get in a little closer with the cherry picker. Going in from the side is the easiest option.

Gasnmyveins

When I pulled the engine from my Skylark, I just put bolts into the heads ( or the block, long time ago) through links in the chain, and lifted it that way. Is there a reason I can't do that on this engine?

Gasnmyveins

Ok, I see. That makes sense once I visualize it. Thanks.

Faceman89

Can’t see why not. I just remember the Vette engine having to come out almost at a perfect angle.

Gasnmyveins

Oh, joy.... Well, I think I have one if those angle adjusters. I just hope it didn't add too much height. If it does, I could just change which chain links I put the bolt through.

Faceman89

Angle adjuster id say is a must.

Gasnmyveins

How hard is it to remove the clamshell, if I have another person with me? I'm thinking maybe I could remove it, lift the engine, and put it back on. If this is a ridiculously bad idea, remember that I have zero experience with removing a c4 hood. Just thinking it could save a potential problem with damage to the clamshell or some other part of the car, trying to be so careful with the removal.

ChumpVette

My open space is on the passenger side. Also less critical stuff to work around. ECM, brake booster, brake master, wiper motor. Wheel comes off to allow cherry picker in closer.

Why suffer trying to get the hood lined back up the way it was. There is no need to remove it

Gasnmyveins

It just seems like it might be a little safer for the car and make it easier to remove the engine, plus possibly provide better access. I've been reading what I can find on removing it. The best idea I've found so far, b side from having a second person to help, is to just make marks on the car around the hinges and take the hinges from the body with the hood. Much easier to line up during reinstallation.
I'm not sure I'll do it, just checking to see what might be involved that I haven't thought of, so I can decide whether or not to do it.

iceman2003

No need to remove the hood, the C4 clamshell hood allows one of the best access to the engine of any car... Just as suggested above pull it from the passenger side. The hood is not a traditional one on a typical car that needs to come off. The angle is not that bad on the hoist to lift it out... I would assume 90 plus percent do not remove the hood, but to each his own, good luck with whatever you decide... Cheers

s carter

when you say in place are you saying unbolt the transmission and support and leave it in (which I never have done or would recommend) mostly because space is limited in the front with cross member.
Or are you saying leave motor and trans as 1 and pull both at same time, that is a very off balance load and I would think the shifter tower would take a Beating.

At the dealership we always pulled transmission and Bellhousing Stripped away anything in the way on the motor or Body and pulled out motorout Passenger side.

C4 Steck

If you want to remove the hood I’d do it with three guys. If your paint is nice and you care about it, masking tape the edges of the hood and front nose, so if it slips a bit and makes contact it won’t scratch anything.

s carter

On that score when doing the more picky customers I had on a few occasions took a strip of bed sheet and a split pipe cover and did the hood edges

Gasnmyveins

Well, it seems unanimous that there's no real reason to remove the hood. One less thing to deal with.
Thanks to all of you for coming in on it.

Gasnmyveins

I meant unbolting the trans from the engine and leaving it in place. It's a real pain to remove it, even with a trans jack. I guess I pretty much have to, though.

skukunin

Why do you want to remove the engine out? I'd make the right diagnostic first. If you suspect a connecting rod, take off an oil pan and check the bearings. Or, at least flush the oil and see if there is bearings in it (big metal particles). Measure compression in the cylinders. Put some gas to the cylinders and see if it remains there after 15 minutes. Use an endoscope to check the cylinder walls and valves. Tons of methods.

Even with bad bearings, you can replace them with having engine in the bay. You can even replace heads and pistons while having the engine in the bay. The only limitation is that you can't take off the crankshaft while the transmission is connected, and it might be hard (but possible) to measure crankshaft journals. But you'd notice a bad journal, and would feel it with a new (a sibling) bearing and torqued cap - the crankshaft will rotate stiffly.