BLOWNBLUEZ06

Just got off the phone with Jerel (fsuforever). The boost is falling down, so it's not cats and he doesn't have them. I asked him to pressurize the system and they did and it's sealed tight. They did an N/A pull and rich as it could possibly be, it did 283rwhp, so it should easily do 350+ with N/A timing and proper fueling. I asked Matt, his tuner to mark the bolt and impeller with a marker as well as the crank and bolt to rule out the crank or impeller spinning on the shafts. After that, I asked him to pull the valve covers and check the pre-load on the lifters and consider shimming the rocker stands up .030 to see if it changes anything.

tail_lights

Just stating if the car was still together it would be a quick check to rule out belt slip. Going from a 4.0 to a 2.75 pulley is a drastic change. My D1/ECS bracket setup slipped bad with a 3.9 pulley (granted it was still a 6 rib), and the belt was plenty tight as it broke the idler pulley once I sprayed the belt down. I needed a flip drive to remedy the slip. Was only hitting 8 lbs and then dropping, at about 4500 rpms. Picked up over 2 lbs of boost with the sticky spray before the idler pulley went so I knew immediately the problem.

I was doing this in my garage though, I guess a car at a shop would have some better options for troubleshooting

fsuforever

Thanks for the support guys ,it really means a lot to have a shop like ecs backing me up & the support I get from brett & the rest of the forum I couldn't do it by myself & I appreciate the help & the feedback ! the tensioner pulley is 15/16 of an inch from the back of the tensioner pulley to the front,closest point of contact to the ati balancer,

fsuforever

Yes,that is exactly what's going on with it,its sitting less than an inch from the balancer & is no where near close to fully open @ rest & I wanted to talk to u doug & make sure that when I put the new belt on ,that it is the correct 1 & so apperantly the belt that's. On it is too long even though the top of it is tight as crap,so I have a 2.75 reichart pulley with a ati 8 rib balancer 080878 is what's on it now,that's gotta come off & I was recommended the 080855? Is this the correct belt or no?ok,so we used the 1st belt & adjusted the fixed idler where now the idler pulley is higher allowing us to get the tensioner in a 12.30 position ,where before it was @ a 2.00 pm postion,getting rdy to strap the car to the dyno & make another run

0Arun@CCP

If a belt goes on too easy, it's too big.

Whenever I go to change a belt-the belt is usually an 1" longer then when it went on.

DOUG @ ECS

Thats pretty short, can you just move the fixed idler near the PS pump to the upper hole?

Mike04

Here is a link to the Gates website where you can check the length of belts that are available. You need to enter into the search engine this format K080878HD*. That will then list the belt you currently run (HD for the green Belt);

http://www.gatespowerpro.com/Comerge...nchInID=608351

Here is the belt info for what you have, if you lower the number the belts get shorter. I had the same issue your having awhile back.

Product ID

85550264

Part #

K080878HD

Belt / Sprocket Specifications
Effective Length (In.) 87.82
Outside Circumference (In.) 88.375

Top Width (In.) 1.087

Packaging
Customer Pack 1.0

Standard Pack 36

Weight
Weight (Lbs.) .61

Belt K080872HD* is

Effective Length (In.) 87.23

Outside Circumference (In.) 87.8

Hope this helps

fsuforever

yes,that's exactly what we did & it moved the tensioner from 2.00/.30 to 12.30 ,so strapping it on the dyno now,will know something shortly,I hope this fixes our issue,the head unit went back to paxton & they pulled it apart & shipped it back with new bearins & seals so if there was an issue with. The unit I highly doubt they would have sent it back messed up, I'm running out of ideas.

Indiana Z06

Good luck! You deserve it!

DOUG @ ECS

It's mechanically straight forward, it's not like finding a short in an electrical harness Jerel. Just get the tensioner properly opened.

raceman14

Don't want to step on any toes as I am an old school engine guy, sounds like you could be losing cylinder pressure and therefore not utilizing the boost pressure of the blower. Blown engines require even better seal than other engines as the additioinal cylinder pressure is 10 time harder on the valve job / ring pack.

Your dyno or engine guy should have a leak down tester, and and you should be a minimum of 95% and hopefully better. With a 10 mechanics stethescope you can listen to the dipstick hole ( ring leak ), Throttle body ( intake valve leak ) or exhaust system ( exhaust valve leak ).

On our 1 cylinder Briggs Animal test engine we installed a manometer on the block oil breather, carburetor and exhaust header and we could measure the total blow by and determine which area needed work. Same principles applie to any engine street or race.

If the engine is not sealed up really good, you will never make any significant power gains. Although I have seen a worn out honda kick out about another +250hp just cranking up the boost on the turbo from 8psi ( 320rwhp ) to 20psi ( 570rwhp ). That engine had about 20% leakdown and it just blew my mind...I am guessing the leakage enable the thing to stay together cause if it was sealed up it would have made 700rwhp.

BLOWNBLUEZ06

He's not losing boost in the cylinders. Many more things would point to leaking cylinders if it was getting past the rings enough to drop that kind of boost, like the turkey timer going off. Besides that, it's an HKE motor.

BLOWNBLUEZ06

I was glad to hear from Jerel this morning. Moving the idler brought the boost. Makes me happy you guys at ECS have those alternate mounting points.
It's really difficult listening to someone with such disappointment in their voice. Jerel works hard and has been so patient. Been screwed plenty throughout his build. He finally hit 15psi by 5000RPM today. Meth isn't working. The jackwagon that installed it at another shop put the PAC controller in the fender and totally screwed up the install. His current tuner is cleaning that up so they can tune it on the meth. Things are finally starting to look up for him.

corvette8189

my belt was a bitch to get on, but it dont slip

corvette8189

Gitusum

fsuforever

We defitnatley Are moving foward, the other shop where I took my car is shutdown & it looks like the tuner locked the pcm ,I have allready been charged 700.00 for tune so we are trying to come up with another remedy! Its been nuts to say the least,starter went out. With all the sartups & the header we had to drop,so that's a setback of time that u don't account foe stuff like this to happen,btw ,it was a 10 yr old starter from gm , so it did its job, we had some methano installation from the closed down shop here in sarasota that did the install put the pac on the battery & put a velcro peice on it,so this got me upset as well,the good news is everything is sound & is running properly,the car made 15 lbs of boost @ half throttle ,so the car is gonna make power,the car was only tuned to 8lbs,so when he saw 15 he let out of it, I was extremley happy with that & I am looking foward to driving my new found power!

fsuforever

Just got some bad news,the shop before where there was some tuning done corrupted the pcm so bad that it would take 32 credits to fix this,wtf?so I am now trying to find out how to go about getting another pcm, I just paid for a tune 700.00 & I can't buy 32 credits,plain. & simple from hp,I may try to get a pcm & have gm flash it,I don't know its somethin all the freakin time

Slow Z06

32 credits??? WTF DL your tune and have someone with a tech2 reset your pcm, then re-tune

ZOHSIX

I have an old PCM. It's A little dented on the shell. Should be good functionally though. Willing to send it out to you if you can't figure anything out.