[Z06] New Clutch ?'s
04-13-2010, 07:23 PM
#21
Le Mans Master
I run the spec 3 clutch. It was either that, or the LS7 for me. I have already broke 2 rear ends. (1 stock, 1 built RPM). I can only get a tiny slip out of it, if you even want to call it a slip. It chatters and shakes the car during 1st and 2nd gear driving if you do not have don't have the RPM's up. I can't say I would suggest this clutch, unless you race a lot.
04-13-2010, 07:36 PM
#22
Pretty sure the LUK Pro Gold is just the OEM C5Z LS6 clutch. There are those here to seem to prefer it over the LS7 setup though I guess.
I had a SPEC clutch in my Z before swapping to the LS7 clutch and it was definitely not a friendly street clutch. It was in the car when I bought it and I didn't get any details from the shop that removed it on what stage it was, so it could have been one of their more extreme stages (I'm guessing it was a 3 but who knows), but it was just a pain in the *** to drive on the street. Violent clutch chatter if you don't have the RPM above 1500 and ride the clutch out pretty good from a stop in normal driving. Was making a pretty loud annoying squealing noise when you did it right to avoid the chatter. No idea if there was something wrong or that was just par for the course.
Much happier w/ the LS7 clutch kit so far as driveability is concerned. Who's to say how well it will hold up to abuse though. Since it came from the factory on the 505 hp C6Z I don't see how it could be a horrible choice for a stock/mildly upgraded C5Z...
I had a SPEC clutch in my Z before swapping to the LS7 clutch and it was definitely not a friendly street clutch. It was in the car when I bought it and I didn't get any details from the shop that removed it on what stage it was, so it could have been one of their more extreme stages (I'm guessing it was a 3 but who knows), but it was just a pain in the *** to drive on the street. Violent clutch chatter if you don't have the RPM above 1500 and ride the clutch out pretty good from a stop in normal driving. Was making a pretty loud annoying squealing noise when you did it right to avoid the chatter. No idea if there was something wrong or that was just par for the course.
Much happier w/ the LS7 clutch kit so far as driveability is concerned. Who's to say how well it will hold up to abuse though. Since it came from the factory on the 505 hp C6Z I don't see how it could be a horrible choice for a stock/mildly upgraded C5Z...
Last edited by GM Fan; 04-13-2010 at 07:40 PM.
04-13-2010, 07:38 PM
#23
I am geting better adjusted to the clutch and when you say LS7 clutch are you talking a C6 clutch? Will this clutch handle 500hp?
What is involved in replacing the clutch? can it be done with 10" ramps in front and jacking and supporting the back somewhat higher or is it better to do it with a lift?
Other then removing the wheels and disconnecting the half shafts and torque tube how much time should one figure?
What is involved in replacing the clutch? can it be done with 10" ramps in front and jacking and supporting the back somewhat higher or is it better to do it with a lift?
Other then removing the wheels and disconnecting the half shafts and torque tube how much time should one figure?
Yes, you can do it with jackstands. I don't think it makes it any more difficult than using a lift.
No, you do not remove the halfshafts. The torque tube is connected to the transmission and rear differential. The only thing that will come off are the rear wheels. You will unbolt the rear shocks, A-arms and then it's only 4 bolts holding the entire rear cradle together. There are various sensor lines on top of the rear cradle that you'll have to disconnect.
The exhaust will have to come out.
There are sensor lines that run along top the torque tube. You will also disconnect the rear brake lines from above the rear differential area.
The shifter will have to come out from inside the car.
Tunnel plate will have to come out as well.
Biggest thing to watch out for is to not let the rear drop too much or it will tilt the engine back and crash into the firewall. You'll even see an illustration on the torque tube.
To drop all that will take about 4-6 hours.
Putting it back together can easily double that time.
You will need 4 jackstands and at least 2 jacks.
A torque wrench is necessary as the flywheel and pressure plate must be torque exactly to spec or you will get vibration. If that happens, you'll tear the whole thing down and do it all over again.
A clutch alignment tool will also be necessary.
May as well replace the $12 throwout bearing. You can rent a slide hammer and bearing puller from Auto Zone, those are necessary.
04-13-2010, 08:30 PM
#24
Race Director
Yes, the LS7 clutch is the factory C6 Z06 clutch. The C6 Z06 comes with 505 HP so yes it will handle the power. When you take it down, you can see how much beefier the clutch is over the LS6 clutch.
Yes, you can do it with jackstands. I don't think it makes it any more difficult than using a lift.
No, you do not remove the halfshafts. The torque tube is connected to the transmission and rear differential. The only thing that will come off are the rear wheels. You will unbolt the rear shocks, A-arms and then it's only 4 bolts holding the entire rear cradle together. There are various sensor lines on top of the rear cradle that you'll have to disconnect.
The exhaust will have to come out.
There are sensor lines that run along top the torque tube. You will also disconnect the rear brake lines from above the rear differential area.
The shifter will have to come out from inside the car.
Tunnel plate will have to come out as well.
Biggest thing to watch out for is to not let the rear drop too much or it will tilt the engine back and crash into the firewall. You'll even see an illustration on the torque tube.
To drop all that will take about 4-6 hours.
Putting it back together can easily double that time.
You will need 4 jackstands and at least 2 jacks.
A torque wrench is necessary as the flywheel and pressure plate must be torque exactly to spec or you will get vibration. If that happens, you'll tear the whole thing down and do it all over again.
A clutch alignment tool will also be necessary.
May as well replace the $12 throwout bearing. You can rent a slide hammer and bearing puller from Auto Zone, those are necessary.
Yes, you can do it with jackstands. I don't think it makes it any more difficult than using a lift.
No, you do not remove the halfshafts. The torque tube is connected to the transmission and rear differential. The only thing that will come off are the rear wheels. You will unbolt the rear shocks, A-arms and then it's only 4 bolts holding the entire rear cradle together. There are various sensor lines on top of the rear cradle that you'll have to disconnect.
The exhaust will have to come out.
There are sensor lines that run along top the torque tube. You will also disconnect the rear brake lines from above the rear differential area.
The shifter will have to come out from inside the car.
Tunnel plate will have to come out as well.
Biggest thing to watch out for is to not let the rear drop too much or it will tilt the engine back and crash into the firewall. You'll even see an illustration on the torque tube.
To drop all that will take about 4-6 hours.
Putting it back together can easily double that time.
You will need 4 jackstands and at least 2 jacks.
A torque wrench is necessary as the flywheel and pressure plate must be torque exactly to spec or you will get vibration. If that happens, you'll tear the whole thing down and do it all over again.
A clutch alignment tool will also be necessary.
May as well replace the $12 throwout bearing. You can rent a slide hammer and bearing puller from Auto Zone, those are necessary.
04-14-2010, 12:23 AM
#25
Burning Brakes
I bought a EXEDY 04173 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit from Amazon and it is working fine in my stock Z. It actually had OEM LUK parts in a Exedy box. $316.75 is hard to beat for new flywheel, disc, PP, and all.
Order a new stock slave cylinder while you are going in.
I also suggest switching to a pilot bushing instead of the bearing. NAPA #615-1161 bronze pilot bushing, $3.49
This is a good thread to read before starting.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...placement.html
I would support the tranny and pull the suspension out first. Only 4 bolts difference and make routing the brake lines and stuff easier IMO. You changing the tranny you will have to separate these parts anyway.
Order a new stock slave cylinder while you are going in.
I also suggest switching to a pilot bushing instead of the bearing. NAPA #615-1161 bronze pilot bushing, $3.49
This is a good thread to read before starting.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...placement.html
I would support the tranny and pull the suspension out first. Only 4 bolts difference and make routing the brake lines and stuff easier IMO. You changing the tranny you will have to separate these parts anyway.
Last edited by Han Solo; 04-14-2010 at 12:29 AM.
04-14-2010, 10:42 PM
#27
Team Owner
04-14-2010, 11:17 PM
#28
Burning Brakes
04-14-2010, 11:35 PM
#30
Team Owner
OH...OK. I though you said you ordered Exedy and they gave you a Luk, but I guess I'm mistaken. Anyways, wasn't picking on you...just making a harmless joke.
04-15-2010, 05:36 AM
#31
Race Director
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 11,222
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Pretty sure the LUK Pro Gold is just the OEM C5Z LS6 clutch. There are those here to seem to prefer it over the LS7 setup though I guess.
I had a SPEC clutch in my Z before swapping to the LS7 clutch and it was definitely not a friendly street clutch. It was in the car when I bought it and I didn't get any details from the shop that removed it on what stage it was, so it could have been one of their more extreme stages (I'm guessing it was a 3 but who knows), but it was just a pain in the *** to drive on the street. Violent clutch chatter if you don't have the RPM above 1500 and ride the clutch out pretty good from a stop in normal driving. Was making a pretty loud annoying squealing noise when you did it right to avoid the chatter. No idea if there was something wrong or that was just par for the course.
Much happier w/ the LS7 clutch kit so far as driveability is concerned. Who's to say how well it will hold up to abuse though. Since it came from the factory on the 505 hp C6Z I don't see how it could be a horrible choice for a stock/mildly upgraded C5Z...
I had a SPEC clutch in my Z before swapping to the LS7 clutch and it was definitely not a friendly street clutch. It was in the car when I bought it and I didn't get any details from the shop that removed it on what stage it was, so it could have been one of their more extreme stages (I'm guessing it was a 3 but who knows), but it was just a pain in the *** to drive on the street. Violent clutch chatter if you don't have the RPM above 1500 and ride the clutch out pretty good from a stop in normal driving. Was making a pretty loud annoying squealing noise when you did it right to avoid the chatter. No idea if there was something wrong or that was just par for the course.
Much happier w/ the LS7 clutch kit so far as driveability is concerned. Who's to say how well it will hold up to abuse though. Since it came from the factory on the 505 hp C6Z I don't see how it could be a horrible choice for a stock/mildly upgraded C5Z...
04-15-2010, 06:27 PM
#32
Burning Brakes
I didn't think you were picking at me or anything. I just wanted to explain the deal.
