Break/clutch fluid change
01-20-2011, 08:36 AM
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Break/clutch fluid change
I was changing my clutch fluid for the first time today (ranger method) The resivour was like expresso. However, it cleared out quickly and i used the entire 12oz. bottle. I checked my break fluid and it was pretty dark too. Is cycling break fluid that way a viable option?
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
01-20-2011, 09:37 AM
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Q on break fluid
ok.. sounds good... is there a preferred brand of break fluid i should use? it could be flawed, but my assumption that all dot3 fluids should meet the same minmum specifications, right? this is not a track car.
01-20-2011, 10:41 AM
#3
With the C5 design, it is troublesome to do a proper flush/refill on the hydraulic clutch system, which is why owners just empty, clean and refill the clutch master regularly.
But with the brake system, you should do it properly by emptying the brake master cylinder, cleaning it inside, refilling with fresh fluid and then cycling all the old fluid in the lines and calipers out each caliper's bleed screw, refilling the master as necessary. Not hard to do, especially with a helper. Or one man bleeders, mity-vacs, etc.
But with the brake system, you should do it properly by emptying the brake master cylinder, cleaning it inside, refilling with fresh fluid and then cycling all the old fluid in the lines and calipers out each caliper's bleed screw, refilling the master as necessary. Not hard to do, especially with a helper. Or one man bleeders, mity-vacs, etc.
01-20-2011, 07:26 PM
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With the C5 design, it is troublesome to do a proper flush/refill on the hydraulic clutch system, which is why owners just empty, clean and refill the clutch master regularly.
But with the brake system, you should do it properly by emptying the brake master cylinder, cleaning it inside, refilling with fresh fluid and then cycling all the old fluid in the lines and calipers out each caliper's bleed screw, refilling the master as necessary. Not hard to do, especially with a helper. Or one man bleeders, mity-vacs, etc.
But with the brake system, you should do it properly by emptying the brake master cylinder, cleaning it inside, refilling with fresh fluid and then cycling all the old fluid in the lines and calipers out each caliper's bleed screw, refilling the master as necessary. Not hard to do, especially with a helper. Or one man bleeders, mity-vacs, etc.
that being said... is the way I descrbed effective enough to make it worthwhile?
01-20-2011, 09:07 PM
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St. Jude Donor '03 thru '24
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Fluids
With the C5 design, it is troublesome to do a proper flush/refill on the hydraulic clutch system, which is why owners just empty, clean and refill the clutch master regularly.
But with the brake system, you should do it properly by emptying the brake master cylinder, cleaning it inside, refilling with fresh fluid and then cycling all the old fluid in the lines and calipers out each caliper's bleed screw, refilling the master as necessary. Not hard to do, especially with a helper. Or one man bleeders, mity-vacs, etc.
But with the brake system, you should do it properly by emptying the brake master cylinder, cleaning it inside, refilling with fresh fluid and then cycling all the old fluid in the lines and calipers out each caliper's bleed screw, refilling the master as necessary. Not hard to do, especially with a helper. Or one man bleeders, mity-vacs, etc.
Prestone is clear in color & makes it easier to see very minute particulates in the clutch master, & first signs of turning color.
I suggest getting a Motive power bleeder for the bleeding of brakes.
Works real well when also purchasing the motive brake M/C cap
(around $15.)Also the Motive (2) catch bottles.
Makes it so easy when working by your self.
You will wonder why you hadn't already owned one.
I have mine done every four years on my brakes. But the GM master technician who works on my 2003 has told me that of the 10 worn out he gets,& clutches and problems in trying to shift, 4 are only worn out clutch fluid. He owns a C5 and has told me that the C5 clutch fluid is one of the things over looked by Corvette owners. he recommended doing it once a year, after that the stuff in about as good as Maple syrup. Just like changing the cooling system, brakes and clutch fluid wear out.
01-21-2011, 02:26 AM
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I suggest using Prestone Syn, Dot 4 in both the brake/clutch reservoir.
Prestone is clear in color & makes it easier to see very minute particulates in the clutch master, & first signs of turning color.
I suggest getting a Motive power bleeder for the bleeding of brakes.
Works real well when also purchasing the motive brake M/C cap
(around $15.)Also the Motive (2) catch bottles.
Makes it so easy when working by your self.
You will wonder why you hadn't already owned one.
I have mine done every four years on my brakes. But the GM master technician who works on my 2003 has told me that of the 10 worn out he gets,& clutches and problems in trying to shift, 4 are only worn out clutch fluid. He owns a C5 and has told me that the C5 clutch fluid is one of the things over looked by Corvette owners. he recommended doing it once a year, after that the stuff in about as good as Maple syrup. Just like changing the cooling system, brakes and clutch fluid wear out.
Prestone is clear in color & makes it easier to see very minute particulates in the clutch master, & first signs of turning color.
I suggest getting a Motive power bleeder for the bleeding of brakes.
Works real well when also purchasing the motive brake M/C cap
(around $15.)Also the Motive (2) catch bottles.
Makes it so easy when working by your self.
You will wonder why you hadn't already owned one.
I have mine done every four years on my brakes. But the GM master technician who works on my 2003 has told me that of the 10 worn out he gets,& clutches and problems in trying to shift, 4 are only worn out clutch fluid. He owns a C5 and has told me that the C5 clutch fluid is one of the things over looked by Corvette owners. he recommended doing it once a year, after that the stuff in about as good as Maple syrup. Just like changing the cooling system, brakes and clutch fluid wear out.
Darkstar, if I can give you any advice (since you called yourself a car noob) is to not attempt bleeding the brakes yourself unless your truly comfortable. It really is a PITA to do it on your own and if your not mechanically inclined you may be asking for trouble. Depending on how many miles you have your MC (Master cylinder) may have built up a thin coating on the inside of the MC. To clean this it is best to fill it with brake cleaner and let it sit over night. Once completed flush thoroughly. The MC is held in place with 2 pins...one is straight on the other is on an angle. You can use a hammer and long thin pick or long screwdriver to reach the pins then once out enough use pliers to completely remove them. Then just lift the MC off but make sure your fenders are covered with a towel as to not get any fluid on them. You may have to yank a little...PS, don't loose the the 2 rubber ring gaskets holding the MC in place!
good luck
01-21-2011, 04:55 PM
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Darkstar, if I can give you any advice (since you called yourself a car noob) is to not attempt bleeding the brakes yourself unless your truly comfortable. It really is a PITA to do it on your own and if your not mechanically inclined you may be asking for trouble. Depending on how many miles you have your MC (Master cylinder) may have built up a thin coating on the inside of the MC. To clean this it is best to fill it with brake cleaner and let it sit over night. Once completed flush thoroughly. The MC is held in place with 2 pins...one is straight on the other is on an angle. You can use a hammer and long thin pick or long screwdriver to reach the pins then once out enough use pliers to completely remove them. Then just lift the MC off but make sure your fenders are covered with a towel as to not get any fluid on them. You may have to yank a little...PS, don't loose the the 2 rubber ring gaskets holding the MC in place!
good luck
