Bill Curlee

Rich

Nope,,,you need to re-phrase that to, I'm lucky,,,my 02 Z06 has not had it happen yet!!!


I fought this problem on my 02 Z06 for months!!! In fact the entire EBTCM failed! The failure happened 28 days out of warranty! I fought GM over covering it under warranty for months. They finally gave in and helped me out!!

Just be glad it hasn't happened,,,yet.

Bill

Rich Z

Gee, thanks........ nothing like that warm fuzzy feeling in the pit of my stomach. I've been reading threads about valve spring failures eating motors, and now this.

Len16

This just happened to me yesterday (on my 2000 coupe) for the first time since I got the car new.

The messages cleared after I restarted the car.

I did change to steel brake lines 2 months ago.

Bill Curlee

I seriously doubt that your new brake lines had anything to to with the DTC Code.

Yes, the messages will clear every time you restart the car and reappear when the fault happens again. If you query your Drivers Information Console (DIC) you will find a TCS DTC Code. It will be a H history code as the problem was only intermittent.

Please post it and maybe we can point you in the correct direction to troubleshoot

bigjoshC5

i got the same problem on my 2000 convertible, when i go over a bumpy road n jus outa no where the radio shuts off the a/c stops blowin cold, windows wont go up or down . i went to the dealership n they told me it was body door modulator there in the door and they told me the part was liek 300 n its probely no bigger then a tea candel, n to take the door pannel it about 2 hours of labor n that equals out to 200 bucks. or it just could be a loose wire

TexasAg98

Right now I'm having the 1214 problem,

but a while back when my passenger door went dead (no windows, lights, locks), I took it to an guy who works on the electrical systems in cars. He took the door apart, followed every wire and couldn't find the problem. Then, he said, because whoever installed my a.m. alarm system did a so-so job with the wiring, he redid the wiring (fixed it, covered it) and then my door worked! He said he still didn't know what was wrong.

Still works today, and only cost $80.

FASST LN

Curious to know if anyone has had luck in solving these kinds of issues...other than Bill who went through hell and back again with GM.

Thanks!

Bill Curlee

Out of all of the people that I have provided this troubleshooting information to, there have been about four people that have came back and said that they found one or more of the female contacts bad. I'm sure that there others but some people just dont post the results. I guess there too happy and busy driving.

If your having intermittant sensor codes or wheel sensor issues, it more than likely a bad connection due to a bad female pin.

Bill

cliff_ford

Well I'm quite happy to come back and say Bill is the man. The female connectors are a real problem. I had to change both on the front driver's side, after the stealer relieved me of $1700 for a speed sensor. I'm now getting the passenger side playing up.

Humy

Does anyone have the part numbers for the other three connectors? They are pretty cheap on gmpartsdirect.com - is installation alot of hours?

C502

Having the same issues with intermittent DTC code. What seems to be working for me to correct the problem, along with the advice from Bill Curlee, { Thanks Bill! } was to remove the EBCM connector, and clean both ends with an electrical contact cleaner. Cleaning all the chasis grounds, and connector ends will repair most of the intermittent codes.
I have only had the codes come on a couple of times in the last thirty plus driving cycles. The service manual states these problems are most likely ground or connection related, and that the EBCM is very reliable.
All of this cleaning should be done before you spend $1000.00 plus dollars for a new EBCM, which wont correct the problem. I am thinking about using dielectric grease on both ends of the connector to the EBCM. Has anyone done this?

bkel33

Your vette had a wheel bearing replaced. When they put it in, they put it in wrong (as most people do) and the wires are rubbing against the axle. Check both back wheels as I garuantee this is your problem.

-Brett

jrc27

I just did this on monday. The only places i used it were on the female connections at the front wheels. That is where i am getting codes. I drove it yesterday and i had both 1225 and 1226 come in, so that didn't help

Bill Curlee

If you have a bad connection, dielectric grease isnt going to help!!! You need to fix the connection. The ONLY way to find the bad female connector is by doing a pin pull test.

Bill

TurboLs1

Bill, I was just wondering if you could point me in the right direction here or post the grounds to check for the 1214 code? My TCS and ABS lights both came on months ago at the same time and never went back off and I cant reset the code, it just beeps and flashes for a second but still says "1 code" and the dummy lights stay on. I get the ABS, traction control, and stability management messages everytime I start the car as soon as I turn the key. I've tried cleaning some of the grounds with no luck and disconnecting the battery but nothing works even for a second. I'm really thinking it might just be the EBTCM, but I would greatly appreciate anyones input here? Thanks in advance!

Bill Dearborn

The 97s are particularly sensitive to this problem. The original EBTCM had a chip design flaw that wasn't noticed right away. When I first had my 97 I would get the same thing happening while autocrossing and I smoked/flatspotted several sets of tires because the ABS stopped working. The dealer tried all the recommendations that Bill C made but to no avail. The car was only 3 months old and only had 2700 miles on it at the time. Due to knowing somebody in GM who worked on the brake system design I found out about the problem. About a year and half after I got my car the replacement part was finally available and I had the EBTCM replaced under warranty. After that I never had the problem again. Most owners probably never had the number of occurences of this problem that I did or had the good fortune of having it documented in a very smoky video tape that was taken during an autocross.

However, I know that other year cars were susceptible to some degree since there are bump conditions that give an erroneous reading to the EBTCM and it turns itself off. Its interesting this never happens when the brakes are being used but happens while you have your foot on the gas. The best solution I saw was on Danny Kellermeyer's 99 Race Car. He had a toggle switch on the dash which interrupted the EBTCM power source and allowed him to reset the EBTCM while driving the car in a race.

Bill

99FewteRC5

if all the grounds are ok, a code c1214 is usually a bad ebcm. I've replaced quite a few within the last few months.

YO-EL

I had the same issue, 1225, changed the harness, still got it, changed the hub..Cured..
OK, lets EDIT this...
4/21/06.. driving to the track, the 1225 popped AGAIN, 3 weeks AFTER hub & harness replacements!
Now what? Ground the SS brake line? HELP/ADVICE?
Anyone STILL getting 1225 AFTER hub/harness replacement?

Sorny

Check the 40A maxi fuse in the engine compartment fuse bay as well. If your light is on and the code is current and never goes away (even after clearing), it could be the fuse, and fuses are cheap.

Sorry, I don't know the number off the top of my head, but there is only 1 40A maxi fuse in there (should be orange in color). I recently replaced my fuse and it was $4 for an LED fuse that glows when it dies; incidentally, I will never buy non LED fuses again.



Sorny

YO-EL

Eh oh................
4/21/06.. driving to the track, the 1225 popped AGAIN, 3 weeks AFTER hub & harness replacements!
Now what? Ground the SS brake line? HELP/ADVICE?
Anyone STILL getting 1225 AFTER hub/harness replacement?

Also, I've noticed ALOT of posts in this thread guys have a 2000.
Anyone else notice this?