Motive pressure bleeder worth the $$$?
11-13-2008, 05:38 PM
#3
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The Motive pressure bleeder is well worth the money. However, it looks like you are choosing the one that applies to all GM cars including older models. If you go to the OG Racing site and click on Motive you will find a selection of Domestic/Import models that allows you to choose a late model GM unit for less than $60. All you will have is a cap that fastens to the hose and to the master cylinder reservoir. No metal accessories required like the one pictured above. That is what I have been using for the last 4 years.
Bill
Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; 11-13-2008 at 06:07 PM.
11-13-2008, 10:20 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
I have one. Mine arrived with the brass connector broken off the GM cap. I don't see how it could have broken en route. I was shipped a new cap immediately (not Summit). Way overpriced but I like it.
11-14-2008, 05:49 AM
#6
Le Mans Master
Is this that much better than a hand vacuum pump that you use at each wheel? I use one of these and Sears sells a plastic one for $34.
There are four methods of bleeding brakes - gravity bleeding, manual bleeding, vacuum bleeding, and pressure bleeding. All of the methods are designed to remove air bubbles from the system and/or flush the braking system with fresh fluid after caliper servicing or brake line replacement. However, some work better than others.
Gravity Bleeding is the slowest method to bleed the brakes, and the least likely to work on modern vehicles. With gravity bleeding you remove the reservoir lid and keep it full with the brake bleeders open at the same time. Assuming the receiver is the highest point in the system, and that there are no leaks or loops in the system
Manual Bleeding involves opening the bleeder valve while a second person pushes the brake pedal down, forcing brake fluid out the bleeder. The bleeder valve is then closed, and the second person lifts the brake pedal up. This process is repeated until the fluid has been flushed and and all of the air has been purged from the system. It is a very simple method, however may not be 100% effective on more complicated systems like modern four-wheel ABS disc brakes.
Vacuum Bleeding is performed by using a handheld vacuum pump to apply a vacuum (equivalent to about 10psi) on each brake caliper, and using it to "draw" the old fluid and/or air out of the system. The nice thing about the hand pump is that it can be used to perform other automotive diagnostic tests on diaphragms, sensors, actuators, etc. Again, you have to keep the reservoir full as you are bleeding the brakes.
Pressure Bleeding uses a pressurized tank filled with brake fluid and an adapter that replaces the master cylinder reservoir cap. The tank is pressurized to about 20psi and brake fluid is then forced through the entire braking system. Pressure bleeding is the best method to bleed just about any brake system, including ABS systems (which usually require pressurized bleeding). As the tank is usually large enough, you dont have to worry about keeping the reservior full.
There are four methods of bleeding brakes - gravity bleeding, manual bleeding, vacuum bleeding, and pressure bleeding. All of the methods are designed to remove air bubbles from the system and/or flush the braking system with fresh fluid after caliper servicing or brake line replacement. However, some work better than others.
Gravity Bleeding is the slowest method to bleed the brakes, and the least likely to work on modern vehicles. With gravity bleeding you remove the reservoir lid and keep it full with the brake bleeders open at the same time. Assuming the receiver is the highest point in the system, and that there are no leaks or loops in the system
Manual Bleeding involves opening the bleeder valve while a second person pushes the brake pedal down, forcing brake fluid out the bleeder. The bleeder valve is then closed, and the second person lifts the brake pedal up. This process is repeated until the fluid has been flushed and and all of the air has been purged from the system. It is a very simple method, however may not be 100% effective on more complicated systems like modern four-wheel ABS disc brakes.
Vacuum Bleeding is performed by using a handheld vacuum pump to apply a vacuum (equivalent to about 10psi) on each brake caliper, and using it to "draw" the old fluid and/or air out of the system. The nice thing about the hand pump is that it can be used to perform other automotive diagnostic tests on diaphragms, sensors, actuators, etc. Again, you have to keep the reservoir full as you are bleeding the brakes.
Pressure Bleeding uses a pressurized tank filled with brake fluid and an adapter that replaces the master cylinder reservoir cap. The tank is pressurized to about 20psi and brake fluid is then forced through the entire braking system. Pressure bleeding is the best method to bleed just about any brake system, including ABS systems (which usually require pressurized bleeding). As the tank is usually large enough, you dont have to worry about keeping the reservior full.
Last edited by Oldvetter; 11-14-2008 at 06:03 AM.
11-14-2008, 07:30 AM
#8
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Pressure Bleeding uses a pressurized tank filled with brake fluid and an adapter that replaces the master cylinder reservoir cap. The tank is pressurized to about 20psi and brake fluid is then forced through the entire braking system. Pressure bleeding is the best method to bleed just about any brake system, including ABS systems (which usually require pressurized bleeding). As the tank is usually large enough, you dont have to worry about keeping the reservior full.
Keep your MC filled with Fresh brake fluid. Brake fluid in the pressure bleeder is just a waist of good brake fluid.
Brake fluid is very costic and will EAT paint. Don't drip brake fluid on you fender
I do my rear two calipers.
Release pressure form the bleeder tank
Check and refill MC
Re pressure the tank
Do front two calipers.
YES YES that is not the proper order
but never have a problem.Two other items
Do not fill the MC to the Full line. That is too much brake fluid. Fill to between the 1/2 way ( tank seem ) and the full line. That is more then enough. Brake fluid heats up and expands and that is why you do not fill to the full line
also" I use tygon tubing 1/8" I.D. that fits over the bleed screw and have drilled a hole in the top of a clear plastic 12 oz coke bottle. Put the tygon tubing into the coke bottle.
that and a open ended 10 mm and a few rags and your good to go.
11-14-2008, 08:33 AM
#9
Drifting
Hmm...I have the same Motive pressure bleeder (haven't used it on the vette yet). I found a set of OEM caps for the clutch and brake MC (added fittings to the caps) for my daily driver and when I add the fluid to the bleeder and pressurize it, it leaks everywhere! Apparently it is not sealing well enough. Perhaps your suggestion would be a more effective method...
11-14-2008, 09:46 AM
#10
how much fluid do you usually use when doing a full bleed?
I've always filled my Motive tank with 2 bottle of Motul 600 and wind up using just a bit over 1 bottle of the stuff (based on what I catch at the calipers). I have to chuck the rest out because I don't like to use anything except FRESHLY opened fluid.
I tried putting just one bottle of Motul in the container before, but when it gets too low I can clearly see air bubbles going threw the tube to the MC.
I've read of people doing it like you AU N EGL, but I'm always worried about the MC running too low and introducing air into the system.
another thing to keep in mind is that you want to keep the bleeder system as clean as possible. I use denatured alcohol, which has no water in it, and always clean the tank & lines before and after bleeding.
I've always filled my Motive tank with 2 bottle of Motul 600 and wind up using just a bit over 1 bottle of the stuff (based on what I catch at the calipers). I have to chuck the rest out because I don't like to use anything except FRESHLY opened fluid.
I tried putting just one bottle of Motul in the container before, but when it gets too low I can clearly see air bubbles going threw the tube to the MC.
I've read of people doing it like you AU N EGL, but I'm always worried about the MC running too low and introducing air into the system.
another thing to keep in mind is that you want to keep the bleeder system as clean as possible. I use denatured alcohol, which has no water in it, and always clean the tank & lines before and after bleeding.
11-14-2008, 09:56 AM
#11
Le Mans Master
According to Motive, you put fluid in the tank:
"Motive Products Power Bleeder Kits
Bleed your brakes by yourself.
These Motive Products Power Bleeder kits use pressurized brake fluid to force air and old fluid out of your brake lines. Just pour clean fluid into the pressure tank, attach the Power Bleeder cap to your fluid reservoir, and pressurize the system using the built-in hand pump and pressure gauge. The kits are available for Ford 2-prong caps, Ford 3-prong caps, hydraulic clutch fluid reservoirs, GM applications with flat fluid covers, and thread-on master cylinder caps."
"Motive Products Power Bleeder Kits
Bleed your brakes by yourself.
These Motive Products Power Bleeder kits use pressurized brake fluid to force air and old fluid out of your brake lines. Just pour clean fluid into the pressure tank, attach the Power Bleeder cap to your fluid reservoir, and pressurize the system using the built-in hand pump and pressure gauge. The kits are available for Ford 2-prong caps, Ford 3-prong caps, hydraulic clutch fluid reservoirs, GM applications with flat fluid covers, and thread-on master cylinder caps."
11-14-2008, 10:47 AM
#12
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how much fluid do you usually use when doing a full bleed?
I've always filled my Motive tank with 2 bottle of Motul 600 and wind up using just a bit over 1 bottle of the stuff (based on what I catch at the calipers). I have to chuck the rest out because I don't like to use anything except FRESHLY opened fluid.
I tried putting just one bottle of Motul in the container before, but when it gets too low I can clearly see air bubbles going threw the tube to the MC.
I've read of people doing it like you AU N EGL, but I'm always worried about the MC running too low and introducing air into the system.
another thing to keep in mind is that you want to keep the bleeder system as clean as possible. I use denatured alcohol, which has no water in it, and always clean the tank & lines before and after bleeding.
I've always filled my Motive tank with 2 bottle of Motul 600 and wind up using just a bit over 1 bottle of the stuff (based on what I catch at the calipers). I have to chuck the rest out because I don't like to use anything except FRESHLY opened fluid.
I tried putting just one bottle of Motul in the container before, but when it gets too low I can clearly see air bubbles going threw the tube to the MC.
I've read of people doing it like you AU N EGL, but I'm always worried about the MC running too low and introducing air into the system.
another thing to keep in mind is that you want to keep the bleeder system as clean as possible. I use denatured alcohol, which has no water in it, and always clean the tank & lines before and after bleeding.
Bill
11-14-2008, 11:31 AM
#13
Le Mans Master
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I used one on my 71 and it is a great product. When I get the chance I am ordering a new one with attachments for my new and old GM vehicles. It is definitely worth the price.
11-14-2008, 11:51 AM
#14
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It leaks too much. PLUS you waist brake fluid by putting it in the Tank.
So NO the company instructions are not really the best way to use their product. But hey it is your car and brake fluid drops will eat paint.
For a FULL bleed and flush I use a full quart. Even if it pushes the new fluid out each caliper, which is what you want.
for a caliper bleed, just a few ounces per caliper or until you see clean fluid come out the tygon tubing.
Last edited by AU N EGL; 11-14-2008 at 12:27 PM.
It is worth having, they work great!
11-15-2008, 03:43 PM
#17
Also suck out all the fluid in the reservoir and fill er up with new fluid that way your not flushing a lot of old reservoir fluid thru in the beginning as its all fresh from the get go.
11-15-2008, 04:38 PM
#18
Le Mans Master
Just ordered mine direct from Motive. Summit does not stock the one with the cap adapter for our cars. The part# for the one that does have the correct cap is #0108 (it has the #1108 adapter).
http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...unt2=458274483
Or if you already have a Motive bleeder and you just need the adapter, you can order it by itself (#1108)
http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...unt2=458274483
http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...unt2=458274483
Or if you already have a Motive bleeder and you just need the adapter, you can order it by itself (#1108)
http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...unt2=458274483
