kjmj

What do you think about this cam lift will be 580's?

I have decided to hold off on heads and stall. I am going to do a cam only. This is a weekend only car. Below are my current mods. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

A4 315 gears
LG Streets
LS 6 intake
Vararam
BBK 80mm throttlebody
Borla Stingers

golfinz

If I could do it again I would get a smaller cam than I have right now. This cam, 224/230 .609/.604 113+2 cam consistently makes a lot of power and drives great too

Cobra4B

It all depends on how you use the car... if it's a weekend toy you drive to car shows and out to dinner once in awhile then go one step larger than you think you want.

If it's something you still want to truly daily drive, then go smaller. I have a G5-X2 in my car that's a 232/240 .595/.608 on a 114 LSA. Car makes killer power and really pulls from 3500 to 7000 rpms, but it lacks a little punch down low.

If I could do it all over again I'd go with a cam spec'd out for massive torque 2000-5000 rpms because my driving style is different. When I picked my cam 2 years ago my car saw HPDE use and wasn't a daily driver.

kjmj

So it sounds like you think what i am doing is ok? How if the 112 lsa going to be for driveability? I don't mind the chop.

kjmj

Weekend driver only and I do not want a stall. Do you have any suggestions for a cam with the torque you are talking about between 2000-5000?

golfinz

Well since you dont have a lot of duration, the 112 doesn't really tell you how the car will chop...its the Overlap that does. The cam you mentioned has 2* of overlap, which is nothing in today's standards. I have 5* on mine and I love it...this is at 950rpms http://www.vimeo.com/2665834.

I mentioned the 224/230 cam only b/c it has consistently made a ton of power for its size. What are your goals for the car? Heads, boost, nitrous, or just a cam?

Cobra4B

I'd talk to Patrick G on LS1tech.com and have him spec a cam. Or the Katech torquer.

golfinz

+1, thats who designed the 224/230 cam Ive listed.

Mopar Jimmy

That is a good street cam that will have very good street manners (not to big that's for sure) and wil make decent power and have nice chop with 112 lsa.

That being said, I know with all the cam options there are certainly other cams out there that will make more power than your selected cam and still be very streetable.

I would call Allan Futral of Futral Motorsports down in LA somewhere (can do a good check) as he is an LSx cam GURU (one of the tops in the Nation) or at least call Speed, Inc (in Schaumburg) or Texas Speed and Performance and talk to one of their more reputable representives as they offer a ton of proven cam, (their torquer series come to mind) and just tell them what your usues for the car are going to be and if you are looking for great power throughout entire rpm band (which I am sure you are).

Let the experts help you out with what has been proven over the last 2 to 3 years. Also, a CONVERTER will REALLY wake your car up and make it feel like a 75 shot of N20. Are you definitely gong to to keep sotck converter and gears, etc. B.c if not, you want to pick and match your parts with a mind towards where you are gong with car in teh future, so you get it right the first time and don't waste time and $ doing it a second and third time. If you going with a torqe converter and or gears in teh future, then you nee to know which one and your cam needs to be matched up properly to your conver (as that is huge) and your gears!

Best of luck!

JohnStuttle

I am installing a cam with these specs next week, I'll let you know the outcome. This is on a 2001 M6 car - john

Gross Valve Lift 1.70 Ratio: .612” .612”

Duration @ .050” Tappet Lift: 224* 228*

Lobe Separation: 112*

bobbss

I have Comp.# 54-444-11 which is 224/230 and 581/588 on 114 and I have RHS Heads.I made 443 rwhp and 417 rwtq.If I had it all to do over,I'd go alittle bigger on a 112 or 113 and have alittle more advance in it for more power down low.

bobbss

Mr. Jones

good comments here on cams
but with the auto I would get a 114cl
the 224/228 581/588 is good
the 224/230 comp standard grind is good
the 224/230 patrick-g cam is great (xfi lobes)-check with him for cl and advance. typically I see this cam at 113+2
you will want adv. in all of the cams 2+ you need to keep the DCR up

OhioC5

I just have to throw this out there, why no stall? I have a Yank SS3200, tuned right and it feels so close to stock until you stab the gas. I may have missed why you didn't want a stall in your post. Stall and gears are awesome, I have heads, cam, stall, gears etc and my wife could drive my car to the grocery store and not complain. Of course she's NOT going to, lol.

kjmj

Thanks to all of you for your comments. Really good stuff. I have talked to about 4 local shops here. They all suggest a custom grind 224/228 on 114 or 112 for an A4 with no stall. Most of them 114. They all said anything bigger and the car would want to surge. I will ask about a 224/230, I have been asking about the 228/232. The reason for no stall is $$$$. A stall will lead to a bigger cam, then high $ heads, then gears, ect... Heck for that kinda $ I could be on my way to a supercharger or turbo. For now I am going to stick with the cam only. That should put me around 380 or 390 rwhp. My current #'s are 340 rwhp 342 rwt. If I did heads I would most likely go with ls6 heads. I am not looking for a monster. I just want something with good power all the way through the power band, and good street manners.

kj

golfinz

Well most shops spec MONSTER cams (like cams with 230-240+duration) thus they need a large lsa to get the overlap undercontrol. A smaller cam like the 224/230 cam can have a smaller lsa and produce great valve events to produce great numbers and still be more mannered than a higher lsa cam

slow ride

It's all in the overlap as discussed above. By running a lower number LSA or advancing the cam you are moving the ICL down and affecting dynamic compression of the engine(cranking compression) If you go cam only you can raise the DC by picking the cam right and making some good low/midrange torque which will whlp you out since you don't have gears or a stall. It can be a balancing act between power and drivability though.

golfinz

perfectly said! Getting the most power is all about power. To make the most power you should first pick your heads (if your going that route) then spec a cam for that head

Mopar Jimmy

You may want to rethink the stall (and gears) b/c a perfect set-up for an LS1 C5 is cam only, cold air intake, headers, nice 3200 to 3600 stall, and 3.73 to 3.90 gears (and HONESTLY you could easily be done with the car and the stall and gears will knock almost a full second off your 1/4 mile et.

YOu may never be content with your car unless you do a converter and gears (along with the cam) and the converter and gears are the best basic mods you can do to an LS1 A4 C5, and will make your car faster vs. cam only. You may want to save up a little money and do it once, and do it right, converter, gears and cam match to converter and gears (AND YOUR DONE) and the for sale section always has good deals on this type of stuff but just do your homework who you are buying from.

The fastest bolt on A4 C5 car about 5 years ago, ever documented on this forum, ran by a forum member in TX by the name of Roger White, ran a Yank 4000 Prothruster STall converter, 3.90 gears, aggressive street/strip cam, and he ran 10.9s with stock heads, all n/a on stock short block and the car was driven on the street all the time also with good street manners.

Keep in mind that lower gears (like 3.73s and 3.90s, will make a stall converter feel more like stock) and I would do gears and converter b/f a cam, as the car will be faster 0 to 120 mph with gears and converter vs a cam only application (even though the cam will be making for horsepower, but it won't make you quicker)!

I would hold off until you can do converter, cam and gears (and then call it a day-YOUR DONE)!

99 vett babycar

just my $0.02. With an A4 I would consider an lsa of at least 114.
Also, if you do plan to enentually plan change heads you might want to take that into consideration before you select the cam; ie., if you plan to eventually install 205 heads you would want a different cam than if you like 225 heads. My spec are in my sig for whatever its worth.