niterider64

My comp is leaking on my 2000 w/83k on it. Tried to chrg but would not pull a vac. I will repl the comp, rec/dryer, orifice tube and clean the lines. My question is can the condensor be cleaned well enough to preclude further damage or should it be repl. Should I base my decision on the contamination on the orifice screen? I'll pull the waterpump and battery, would pulling the right wheel help? Any special tools req. Thanks.

blades11b

dont know about special tools man but i never replace the condensor unless its leakig/damaged just needs to be flushed well. the dryer is a must because theres no way to get all the debri out of it. so as stated clean out that condensor really good and get the system tight so you can pull a good vacuum on it and your straight man

jedblanks

use a good flush on the condenser. Get a new dryer. If you take it out, you can flush the evap core too. Don't flush anything else.

niterider64

Thanks for the info guys, just ordered new comp, rec/dryer, orifice tube, oil, flush and orings. I'll flush everything but the evap. Purge syst w/ nitrogen then suck it down.

Quicksilver Vert 01

I would skip the nitrogen purge, unless you're planning on leaving it in overnight for a final leak test before you evacuate and recharge the system.

You shouldn't find very much debris in the system unless the old compressor suffered a major mechanical failure. You will know when you inspect the orifice tube screen. The accumulator also has an internal filter screen on the inlet side.

Don't forget to add the correct amount of PAG 150 refrigeration oil to each component that you've flushed or replaced in the system.

kh400

Some of these newer cars have a different design condensor that has super small "capillary tubes" instead of the standard larger tubes that they used for yrs. If it has this condensor, it is recommended that you replace it along with the compressor and drier and orifice tube. Good luck.

Marlin

If the compressor went bad (i.e. locked up, bad bearings, etc...) then yea its best to replace it as you will never get all the old metal and dirt out of the newer ones.

BUT if all you have is a bad seal/leak then just do a flush and install the new Comp, accumulator, orifice tube, and new oil and seals.

I am here looking to see if someone has posted pics to replacing the compressor. Just want to make sure I don’t miss anything or do it the hard way when someone else already made the mistake I don’t have to. My front seal went bad but the system still works. I got a NEW compressor kit (with all the stuff I listed above) for $205 shipped.

bighank

Unless the compressor disintegrated and completely fouled the system why replace anything but the receiver/dryer strainer. I've gotten used compressors from the junk yard. installed them. Purged the system, evacuated it and leak tested (see if it will hold -30 in of vacuum for at least a half hr) and ran the cars for YEARS. Don't blow money on something thats not broken. You will probably just have to replace compressor and dryer, purge charge (like one can of refrigerant) evacuate (I use an old refrigerator compressor to pull vacuum) and charge.

SaberD

it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to remove it while you have it disconnected. this way you can do a really good job of cleaning the radiator fins with it out of the way. not sure how easy it is to remove, as i didn't do it when i changed my compressor. I didnt have much time left, so i figured i would pull the radiator sometime in the future to clean the fins.

ZZ06

I aggree with bighank. I bought my 01ZO6 in 2007 with 45k. It now has 92K on her. 1 year after purchase, the AC Comp goes. I know its suggested to replace everything in the system but from what it seemed to be wrong with my comp was clutch failure. So i just had my mechanic put a refurb in, cleaned and flushed the condensor, and wala. Been working and blowing ice cold ever since.

niterider64

Just got done removing the comp/ receiver/dryer, and orifice tube, only took 1.5 hrs from hood up to finish. For Marlin, the comp took the most time. Drain rad, discon all hoses from water pump, removed air inlet duct and rad top cover. The pump has 6 bolts all accessible and slides out easily. I did pull the front wheel to get to the 2 lower comp bolts, was worth the trouble. Remove the refidge line off the back, the elect. con and 2 top bolts and slides forward and up and out. The orifice tube was close to spotless so a good flush, oil,vac and 28 oz of 134 I should be chillin. Question- How many oz of oil? I know half in dryer and half in comp- should I pour it in the hi side just before install? Also anything special to adding new dexcool ie procedure/bleeding. Marlin where did you get everything for just over $200? Thanks guys

Marlin

I found a place on eBay and asked about 1 part; that is when he told me he had the Refurb kit for $175 and a New kit for 205. When I was a tech the only compressor I had a issue with was refurbs. It was rare but a couple times it came up. The new ones always worked. So even though I am selling my car I wanted to put something on that would last.


Here is the Rocco write up I found here. May help with the oil numbers if you have not found them yet. Also waht oil are you using? PAG150 is what I have seen most use but some use PAG46 as GM updated the spec I think in 06. I am going with the 150 as that is what was in there to begin with.

http://trans5.com/docs/C5%20AC%20Com...eplacement.pdf

Quicksilver Vert 01

Total system oil capacity is 9.0 oz

Accumulator Replacement 2.0 oz
Compressor Replacement 2.0 oz
Condenser Replacement 1.0 oz
Evaporator Replacement 3.0 oz

Add oil to the compressor LOW/SUCTION side and the accumulator INLET side, connect the lines, and turn the compressor several revolutions by hand to distribute the oil.

niterider64

A/C kicks *** 45 on the center vent driving 50 mph, full fan, fresh air, 85 deg outside, 70% hum. Just having a problem now with eng cooling- car runs 240. I am on another thread dealing w/ waterpump issues but if you got any ideas I'm open

Quicksilver Vert 01

Job well done!

chrismullins99

If the condensor is a parallel flow style then you should replace if there is a compressor failure. Atleast thats what I have always heard.

VETTEGUY1977

This is a parallel flow condenser. The tubes in this condenser are about the diameter of the paperclip. It is nearly impossible to completely flush this type of condenser after a catastrophic failure. In the OP's case the compressor is being replaced due to a leak. A complete system flush, a compressor (preferably new) a receiver drier, an orifice tube par oil, and new o-rings should be all that is needed. I personally recommend a small bottle of Ice-32 as well which is an additive that helps reduce friction increasing the efficiency of the A/C system that includes dye.

niterider64

Thanks to 8VETTE7 I bleed the air out of the heads by loosening the bleed fittings at the front/top of each head with the cap off the reservoir. I did add the ice 32 additive. Also my old orifice tube was very clean so was the oil I drained out of the old comp. so I did not change the cond. Thanks again everyone for your input, cool runnings this summer!

hdpete98

You can get a new condensor for less than $150. The parallel flow condensor will take that much in flush and it still won't be clean if you had a compressor fail. I did not replace mine but flushed it. One month later, the orifice tube is clogged. So out comes the consensor and a vacuum and refill. Lesson learned.