Installed LT Headers, car is slower, running bad throwing p0135 p0155
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So I installed some headers today, and I am just going to come out and say it, they are obx. I dont want this to turn into a you should have bought LGs debate, but something is wrong. The fitment was actually pretty good besides the drivers side resting against the bellhousing. I did not hit the tunnel plate with my o2 sensor, and did not hit the starter either.
Anyway my car sounds great at idle, not so great whie running, but I think my drivers side has a leak in it. When I put my hand behind the exhaust the drivers side is warm, while the passenger side is hot. I think that means there is a leak? I do not want to blame my car running with as much horsepower as a civic on a leak though. I am throwing p0135 and p0155 codes. I know those are my front sensors, but it could be my extensions. I ordered extensions for my car, that ended up not being for my car. It was too late to go back, so I had to cut the little plastic piece out of the middle to get the extensions to go on the plugs. There was a plastic bar in the middle that wasnt allowing it to be pushed in. No auto stores in town carry extensions so I cut them out.
Could having the wrong extensions be the problem? They did not snap all the way in, but they are pretty close to being pushed all the way in, so I figured I could get away with it. Especially considering the hobby shop closed while I was finishing, and shes my daily driver. I need her to get home. If that isnt the problem then somewhere in the install my o2 sensors were damaged I guess. I am going to go back tomorrow and tighten up any leaks while they are no rushing me out, but I am also going to try and see if the extensions are color coded, maybe I have the pins in the wrong slots?
Any helpful input would be greatly appreciated. The car sounds like a whole new beast at idle though, I was pretty excited until I drove it home.
Oh I also made sure my sensors were not crossed.
Anyway my car sounds great at idle, not so great whie running, but I think my drivers side has a leak in it. When I put my hand behind the exhaust the drivers side is warm, while the passenger side is hot. I think that means there is a leak? I do not want to blame my car running with as much horsepower as a civic on a leak though. I am throwing p0135 and p0155 codes. I know those are my front sensors, but it could be my extensions. I ordered extensions for my car, that ended up not being for my car. It was too late to go back, so I had to cut the little plastic piece out of the middle to get the extensions to go on the plugs. There was a plastic bar in the middle that wasnt allowing it to be pushed in. No auto stores in town carry extensions so I cut them out.
Could having the wrong extensions be the problem? They did not snap all the way in, but they are pretty close to being pushed all the way in, so I figured I could get away with it. Especially considering the hobby shop closed while I was finishing, and shes my daily driver. I need her to get home. If that isnt the problem then somewhere in the install my o2 sensors were damaged I guess. I am going to go back tomorrow and tighten up any leaks while they are no rushing me out, but I am also going to try and see if the extensions are color coded, maybe I have the pins in the wrong slots?
Any helpful input would be greatly appreciated. The car sounds like a whole new beast at idle though, I was pretty excited until I drove it home.
Oh I also made sure my sensors were not crossed.
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Yup my rears are wrong. Pretty sure I did not cross them. That still shouldnt cause the codes I am getting though right? Those codes are for the fonts.
Last edited by socci; 05-15-2011 at 08:42 PM.
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Did you get the catless headers? You may be throwing codes if you didn't get them tuned out. I also just recently installed obx headers, they sound amazing at wot! I also have a small exhaust leak somewhere, i may just get them welded as the clamps in the kit are cheap.
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Did you get the catless headers? You may be throwing codes if you didn't get them tuned out. I also just recently installed obx headers, they sound amazing at wot! I also have a small exhaust leak somewhere, i may just get them welded as the clamps in the kit are cheap.
I was going to buy the correct extensions and see what happens, but my headers melted my front sensor plug. I did not tie it off good enough, and it is completely melted to the point of no return. I am going to go and cut it out, splice the rears to the fronts and tune out the rears. I really hate to splice the connector in, but I have no choice at this point. Hopefully it works.
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They do have cats.
Well my extensions were for the wrong car, and after I hacked them up to get them in I started thinking maybe the pins are wired in a certain way and mine are connected wrong. After I cut them I could only get them in one way, and it was not the position where the two clips line up.
I was going to buy the correct extensions and see what happens, but my headers melted my front sensor plug. I did not tie it off good enough, and it is completely melted to the point of no return. I am going to go and cut it out, splice the rears to the fronts and tune out the rears. I really hate to splice the connector in, but I have no choice at this point. Hopefully it works.
Well my extensions were for the wrong car, and after I hacked them up to get them in I started thinking maybe the pins are wired in a certain way and mine are connected wrong. After I cut them I could only get them in one way, and it was not the position where the two clips line up.
I was going to buy the correct extensions and see what happens, but my headers melted my front sensor plug. I did not tie it off good enough, and it is completely melted to the point of no return. I am going to go and cut it out, splice the rears to the fronts and tune out the rears. I really hate to splice the connector in, but I have no choice at this point. Hopefully it works.
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So turns out only the plastic of the connector was melted, and the wires were fine. I took those extensions off and realized they are indeed labeled for specific pins. To my luck the way they are supposed to go in was not possible. I hacked them up some more and was able to get them on the original plugs. As of right now my car is not throwing any o2 codes (fingers crossed). I zip tied all the wires out of the way, and moved on to my leaks. I ran the car while lifted and found leaks on both x pipe gaskets, and a leak coming from the bullets gasket. I am going to chevy tomorrow for the gaskets, and I will get new brackets while I am there for the x pipe. Worst comes to worst I have the xpipe welded. So as of right now everything seems like it is going to work out. As soon as I get these leaks fixed, I will mail my ecu in for a tune.
I am getting a squeeking sound from what seems to be a belt or pulley. My car never made that noise before I removed my alt, but I cant figure out why its doing it now. Its not constant either, it is in random intervals.
I am getting a squeeking sound from what seems to be a belt or pulley. My car never made that noise before I removed my alt, but I cant figure out why its doing it now. Its not constant either, it is in random intervals.
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Yea I meant to put that I was planning on it. I thought finding new clamps for my exhaust leak was going to be the easy part, but nobody carries them. I only have a few more days until I can no longer use the hobby shop lift, so I really did not want to order them online.
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But before I go look...I think it was a header gasket at the head or the air tube flange. I re-installed the gaskets with Ultra-copper silicone and the problem went away.
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I still have to check Napa, I meant to do that today.
As far as the chirp, that is the most disappointing news I have heard in awhile. After that install, the last thing I want to do is take the headers back off. Also my drivers side does rest on the bellhousing. How bad is that? I am considering taking it off and denting it, but am not looking forward to the removal/install.
Also my chirp goes away after a few seconds of the motor running if that helps.
As far as the chirp, that is the most disappointing news I have heard in awhile. After that install, the last thing I want to do is take the headers back off. Also my drivers side does rest on the bellhousing. How bad is that? I am considering taking it off and denting it, but am not looking forward to the removal/install.
Also my chirp goes away after a few seconds of the motor running if that helps.
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You do not have to remove the header to fix the chirp!!!
Just remove all the bolts off the head, except the 2 end ones....slide the gasket up and out...coat the gasket with UltraCopper and slid it back down....simple 5 minute job!!
Just remove all the bolts off the head, except the 2 end ones....slide the gasket up and out...coat the gasket with UltraCopper and slid it back down....simple 5 minute job!!
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I do not think we have the same gasket. I have the GM round port gasket. I cant slide it out without removing all of the bolts. I was reading through your post and someone towards the end mentioned is your headers were touching your bellhousing causing them to not be fully sealed. My drivers side header is resting against the bellhousing, and I have been stressin all day about whether or not I take it to a shop, try to do it myself, or leave it. I am starting to think my header wont fully seal if its touching my bellhousing. I just do not understand why it only makes the noise for a few seconds then never comes back. I understand it heats up and possibly seals, but dont header leaks normally get worse under load?
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I do not think we have the same gasket. I have the GM round port gasket. I cant slide it out without removing all of the bolts. I was reading through your post and someone towards the end mentioned is your headers were touching your bellhousing causing them to not be fully sealed. My drivers side header is resting against the bellhousing, and I have been stressin all day about whether or not I take it to a shop, try to do it myself, or leave it. I am starting to think my header wont fully seal if its touching my bellhousing. I just do not understand why it only makes the noise for a few seconds then never comes back. I understand it heats up and possibly seals, but dont header leaks normally get worse under load?
Listen, I have the same things. If you can, just take a big pry bar and dimple the header right at the bell housing....no big deal.
Also, I have the same gaskets....undo all the bolts to the head...very easy.
Slide out the gasket.
Cut slots on the bottom sides of the two outer bolt holes....now it will slide down.
THEN, install the two end bolts...you may need to install a couple different locations first to make it easier, then do the end bolts, then remove those other ones.
Now, with the two end bolts loose, slide the gasket down into place.
This CAN be done without making a mess!!
Once the gasket is slid down, you can now install the other bolts.
This takes literally 5 mins to do (on a cold motor!!)
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Thats genius. I cant say I can do it in five minutes, you must be a machine. I have a hard time getting to some bolts with the air tubes and coil packs still on. I will have to try that this weekend though. I brought my car to a shop today to weld the leaking clamps. They told me to come back tomorrow so they could try and dimple that header for me, the guy seemed pretty confident about being able to do it. I appreciate the help, and will let you know how it turns out.
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Thats genius. I cant say I can do it in five minutes, you must be a machine. I have a hard time getting to some bolts with the air tubes and coil packs still on. I will have to try that this weekend though. I brought my car to a shop today to weld the leaking clamps. They told me to come back tomorrow so they could try and dimple that header for me, the guy seemed pretty confident about being able to do it. I appreciate the help, and will let you know how it turns out.
Once you get it right, and I know you will, you will love it!!
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