95rtturbo

^ haha! Unfortunately, I have a feeling I will be experiencing it soon, though (due to how widespread this issue seems to be).

Grimlock

I had an issue where if I shifted the Z06 aggressively at all (meaning, not granny shifting) the clutch would start to stick close to the floor AND fully engage. In other words it was like dropping the clutch in only 5% travel, and EXTREMELY dangerous. I ended up replacing the clutch, and this was at only 46K miles. So something happened to this car before I bought it as I've owned it only about 5 months. I tried the Ranger method for a while, but this was clearly not related.

When the tech looked at the clutch he said he had never seen anything like it. The pressure plate was extremely blue and with many "hot spots". I never got a chance to look at it myself. He deduced that something had been done to the clutch to make it VERY hot several different times.

95rtturbo

^ So the car has been fine ever since replacing the clutch in your particular case?

Grimlock

I only have around 500 miles on it (went with a LS7 clutch) and I have no problems yet. I definitely had to do the Ranger method a bunch for the first few hundred miles, but now that it is broken in it doesn't seem to be much of an issue.

mikes1hog

Years ago, I was stationed at Lemoore NAS and did quite a few runs up to the San Francisco area Naval bases. Cold was never a problem as I recall unlike here in central Pennsylvania or St Louis MO. I don't think the temp was part of your problem. It was just the way your Vette was treated. But the question still remains as to why you had a problem initially after the clutch was replaced? Didn't they do the slave cylinder and change the fluid etc?

Grimlock

I don't think outside temperatures have anything to do with problems on my car either. The clutch got super hot because it was abused in some way or another. Odds are that someone "rode" the clutch or something like that. The prior owner also mentioned that he liked to launch in 2nd from time to time, and that wouldn't help either. I also suspect his college age son might have "borrowed" the car and thrashed on it, as the owner didn't seem like the type to intentionally beat on the car.

And I haven't had any issues since the clutch was installed. There was a lot of dust in the system which required the Ranger method, but I think that can be easily explained. A new clutch that isn't bedded will probably create more dust until it is broken in. After that, it should be like any other clutch.

I know I have definitely talked to several new C6 owners who report that their clutch fluid reservoir got filthy during their break in period as well. I know of one who reported a "sticky clutch" under 500 miles until he did the Ranger method.

striper

Question: what is the restrictor that is talked about having to be drilled larger? Where is it and how much do you drill it out? I'm putting my car back together now after doing a clutch change and I'm wondering if I should do this now before it's all done.

mikes1hog

It supposed lets the fluid pass through better, quicker. There are several hoses/metal pipes that the hydraulic fluid runs through. It's the metal pipe that has a restriction on one end that could be drilled out. From what I read, it's another waste of time. Do a search and you will find the article in this forum in a Chevy magazine. Have you replaced the slave and master cylinder?

dougbfresh

It's all in the link I have it my previous post to this thread-even has PICS!

SPDKNGG

Well guys its not cokd weather doing it. Im here in florida and my 99 FRC is starting to act up.
My problem is when I start getting on it, my pedal starts to lose pressure and has stayed down a few times.had to bring it up with my foot..feels like the pedal is inconsistant at times..
Im just gonna replace my clutch and flywheel. While im in there new slave and throw out.

Z06TWT

My 02 Z had the dreaded pedal stick when I tracked the car. My fix was a Tick master and the transmission "vent" hole fix found on the CF. Thirty hard track days later and zero clutch issues.

Janfun

Thanks for a hint but what is actually a Tick master vent hole fix that you did? I have exactly the same problem and I´m very frustrated due to problem. It all started when I was trying Le Mans track and having high rpm at the start. You can guess how it all ended because of the clutch :-(
Every time pushing my vette more than normal (over 6000 rpm) the problem comes again. Driving as a lamb does not cause any problems at all besides all Porsches overtaking while I´m trying to find a gear :-(
My C5 FRC 1999 is 453 RWHP w/NOX 603RWHP. It does 8500 rpm to the set limit.
I really appreciate your information as I do not e'want to replace master and slave cyliders just for repeating the symptom later on....

Cheers
JanFun

NXS

Let's consider how the clutch releases

As your foot comes off the pedal the fluid returns to the master from the slave.
The pressure plate is the spring that causes this action.
In order for the pressure plate to do this action it must move the clutch disk closer to the fly wheel.
IF the pressure plate moves the pedal MUST come up as hydraulic fluid is not compressible. UNLESS there is moisture in the fluid that boils and causes microscopic air pockets.

If the splines are dirty it can slow this action hot or cold. Grease will be thicker, even stickier when cold.
Old clutches had large splines, these clutches have very small/fine splines that will be more susceptible to 'gunk'

Yet another issue could be the pilot bearing/input shaft. IF it's (, input shaft) off center the clutch may bind on the splines. An out of balance disc can cause this. A bad pilot bearing or torque tube bearing could cause this.

The only fix to address ALL these issues (excluding moisture in the fluid) would be to have a new input made with the old style large splines and the ability to run both the small and large pilot bearings in the crank at the same time.

That's the fix.

ZZ06

4 year old thread