Tusc

I can bleed the master on its own, but I'm thinking there might be air in the slave cylinder since the master had crapped out, bled all the fluid out and I didn't know until the clutch pedal hit the floor.

Any guidance on getting the air out?

Also.... this had me crying with laughter n the garage earlier when I found it while searching YouTube for videos on disconnecting the QD connection. You know that point where you've been upside down trying to get those 3x 13mm nuts out to remove the pedal assembly and you're punchy when you stand up again? This was that moment.

Crabr1

You do have the remote bleeder line installed right????? If not...well your SOOL....

tommypenguin

I'm actually bleeding my clutch tonight after wrapping up my tick master cylinder install. With a remote bleeder it's a piece of cake. Open remote bleeder nipper and submerge in bottle with brake fluid. Keep the clutch reservoir from going empty and pump the pedal till you cycle all fluid through it.

Tusc

Here's the thing about that.... no remote bleeder.

I *OWN* one now, yes. It's just.... staring at me through the clear plastic it is wrapped in since it's not installed.

Anything I can manage by yanking the access tray?

Tusc

After doing some searching, it sounds as though it may be possible to accomplish if I drop my headers and pipes, then the center tray and pray I can squeeze my meaty hands up to the top of the torque tube.

Any pointers?

wcsinx

You shouldn't need to touch the headers. Just yank the midpipe out and then the tunnel plate. Once those are out it's pretty easy to access the bleeder.

Tusc

Except that the original owner welded the cats to the long-tubes when he installed the headers.

wcsinx

Ugh

Well then alternatively you can bleed the air out of the slave by applying vacuum pressure to the master. This method is actually documented in the GM service manual.

Tusc

Veeeery interesting!