rellz614

I have a Kenwood 4707S and a PAC bose integration wiring kit, as well as a powered subwoofer. Everything works great when I start the car and sounds amazing. However, after driving, sometimes for 20 minutes or so, and sometimes it works fine for a couple hours, but frequently it will lose all bass response. The subs in the doors and the powered sub both go off at the same time. The radio keeps playing but it's all tweeters. Back and front speaker still work.

Any suggestions on where I should start on this issue? I opened a case with Kenwood as well.

I thought at first it might be overheating, but I would think the whole stereo would turn off in that case. This also happened before I installed the powered subwoofer, so I know that's not the issue. And the powered sub is connected directly to the output jack of the Kenwood, so I can't figure out why it's dropping both the PAC and the Sub at the same time.

There is only one common connection between the two - the "power control" blue wire. I've confirmed that has a solid connection. And the sub is grounded completely separately from the PAC and Kenwood.

Any suggestions?

jdewolf

The Bose amp/woofer would drop when you had the the stock HU or the Kenwood?

rellz614

I did not have any problems when I had the stock stereo system in.

corvettezman

Does the powered sub amp turn off when that happens? assuming there are light it shows it's powered on ?

jdewolf

When the subs stops working do you still have 12v on your remote wire?

Vox Machina

How do you have everything wired? I'm assuming your aftermarket sub is hooked up to the sub RCA jack on the Kenwood deck, and you're sending full-range to the doors. Correct? Did you do the install or was it a shop?

rellz614

I had a shop do the install, but it worked fine for a handful of months so believe everything is wired. Yes the powered sub connects to the RCA jack on the kenwood deck.

Yes, the light on the sub goes off when this happens. It's like the stereo just stopped sending a signal.

rellz614

yes the light on the powered sub goes off when this happens

corvettezman

Sounds like an issue with the deck itself or something is overheating and thermally shutting off the accessory power.
Since door and external subs are dying together, then you know the issue is with the blue wire power just timing out.
Not sure really why you would need both. Typically you use either or. Try disconnecting the door subs and see if the system survives on just external sub.
All you need is to disconnect the white connector behind the deck. This feeds the subs.

rellz614

Is the deck "smart" enough to turn off the power to the accessories if I'm driving the door subs too hard? I would think it would turn off the entire stereo if there was an overheating issue. But good point about removing the bose integration from the equation and seeing what happens.

Vox Machina

This isn't a thermal issue. This is something going wonky with the remote out on the deck. Could be an intermittent short, or a shoddy connection. But does explain your issue.

An easy fix would be to take the wires connected to the blue/white (one is turning on the base amps, the other is going to your aftermarket sub) and hook them up to the red wire. If the issue persists it's a connection issue somewhere, if it goes away its a radio issue.

rellz614

Wow thank you - I assume I cannot leave them connected long term to the red wire because that's constant power, is that correct?

jdewolf

Yellow is battery/constant. Red is accessory/ignition.

rellz614

I've decided that I'm going to hook just my powered sub to the red wire and see what happens. If the powered sub works but the bose integration stops then I know 100% it's the blue wire. Clarification - if I connect to the red wire, can I leave it like that permanently? I guess I don't really know the difference about leaving it connected permanently to the red instead of blue/white - what are the tradeoffs?