kevinkar

I bought an '05 in October '13 with 56,000 miles and both tops were driving me crazy. I paid for the Dupont Krytox lubricant which helped a bit but not really as much as I hoped it would. The painted top was a now bit quieter than the clear but the clear top was almost unbearable whenever I decided to give it another go.

Finally found this thread while looking for fixes on interior creaks and moans (mostly from body flexing when entering my driveway or going over bumps - the dash sure has a lot of plastic that rubs together) and just tested it on the clear top over the roads I use every day. Not ONE pop or click or tick or squeak. I am amazed. So I installed the second set of clips on the painted top and, if I ever go back to it, I expect it to be nice and quiet too.

Amazingly simple and cheap. I hope it lasts!

Kevin

Arkay

Kevin,

The clips i installed on my 08 in Sep 2013 have worked perfect. I wonder why you decided to paint the clear top?

kevinkar

Sorry, I was not clear (no pun intended). I have the two-top option on my car so I have both the transparent and body-color tops. So the body-color one is "painted". I didn't paint the transparent one.

Sorry for the confusion. I thought everyone referred to the body-colored top as "painted".

I might swap out the two tomorrow and drive around to see if the painted top is nice and quiet too. I hope so.

Kevin

RedSeeSix

I just bought a 2012 GS and am having the noise problem (really bad). The dealer replaced the latches, did the lubrication, but that did not resolve the problem. We are now negotiating a new top. My gut tells me that is a dead end too.

Are the new latches a design change that will not respond to the e-clip fix or are they built differently? I haven't inspected the latches myself yet because I wanted to give them a chance to fix the problem themselves since I just bought the car.

Appreciate any opinions.

Arkay

The new latches were introduced in mid 2008 and it my understanding they have not changed.

I have an early 2008 with the old style latches and adding the e-clips really helped with the old style rollers. Your 2013 has the new latches unless someone installed an older top. If I was you, I would apply some shrink wrap on the two post and put new 0-rings over the shrink wrap. Give it a try... the price is cheap.

Dick

This is how I fixed mine but note I have the old style roller latches. The shrink wrap and o-rings may help yours

RedSeeSix

Since it doesn't look like the e-clips are an option with the new latches I will try the shrink wrap and all other potential fixes if I end up with the car because the dealership can't remedy the situation.

hisvett

FWIW, this is the fix I have been using on my Centennial GS;
1. Remove the top
2. Use talcum powder lightly on the flat surface of the rubber gasket that meets the glass top, front and rear.
3. replace top
4. Squeak/pop gone......at lest until the next time the top is removed.

This has worked for the last 35K miles (2 1/2 years).

RedSeeSix

Thanks hisvette.

I will try that along with all other remedies suggested here if I am forced to take the car back and accept the problem as my own. Since this was sold as a Certified Pre Owned car with a 12 month bumper to bumper warranty so I sort of feel that I need to let the dealership exhaust what should be their responsibilities first.

In some ways I want to take the car back and try these things myself but I'm afraid that could weaken my case if this turns into a legal battle.

I still would appreciate any helpful comments on fixes or courses of action if the dealership can't fix this or refuses to take it back.

burdett83

Reading some post - it appears some people are looking in the right area, but over looking what is really going on. The popping noise is the actual striker plate moving as the roof shifts from side to side. As once the latches are fully set to lock the only part allowed to move at this point the compressed latch its self- the roof and latches and striker plate are one....and the the actual part of the striker assembly bolted to the windshield are now two separate moving parts. This is the are one must address to remedy issue. To fix the area or latch plate - I have found that a small piece of rigid plastic ( cut the end off of a zip tie - the tapered tip ) wedged into the top side of the striker plate and the base at upper rear edge of plate and the body it's attached to. This stop all movement in the plate it's self. If you place your hand on the striker plate ( with roof off) you can feel the plate move freely side to side, this is the area from any noise could start.
Hope this makes since, and sorry for long post. Good luck.

NVaughn

Here's another good resource...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/how-to...g-noise-368671