mvicel

Hello everyone,
I would need some help/advice... So my car is 2008, F55 and I have changed my brakes about 2000 miles ago, and now again they start to feel "weak" and they are not stopping the car good anymore. They really feel like I need to change them again. Can you give me any advice on what brakes to use, or if it is normal... I'm getting pretty frustrated about it...

Thank You!!!

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

How is the car being used?

Pedal travel increase from the last time?

mileage on brakes? What was changed?

RicK T

Can you provide pics of the pads and rotors?

vettedoogie

Who does your brake work?? What brakes are they using? What brake fluid are you using?

BEZ06

You did bed the pads properly when you first installed them, right???

What compound are you using??? If you put in some ceramic pads to try to do away with dust and squeal, well.....they just don't work as well as the stock pads.

If you're talking about having problems on the track, then you've got the wrong compound for your tires, the track, and your driving style.

Bob

AORoads

politically incorrect... in-cominggggg.....

BC427

You know using your theory, all "ceramics" just don't work as well as the stock pads. Then all semi metallic pads should be as good as stock pads. So lets put a set of semi metallics made in China on your vehicle and lets see if they are as good as a true set of ceramic pads. Not to be used for the track. Just everyday driving and expectations. Things like noise, dust, cold stopping ability, recovery from a couple of high speed stops.
Rotor and pad wear. Pedal feel over a wide range of stopping situations.
I'll supply you with both sets of pads.

BEZ06

Well.....I'll bow out of this thread now that the expert has chimed in!!

I don't want to run what ever pads you're talking about on my Z06 - I've already picked my track pads, and they are either Hawk DTC70/60 or Carbotech XP10/12.

Please just go ahead and answer the OP's questions instead of engaging me in some bs side discussion.

The OP has a question and it should be easy for you to give him a definitive answer. I'll be watching for that, but I have no further advice for him now that you're here.

Bob

Carbotech Adam

What pads are they and how is the car being used?

BC427

Not enough information. Who's pads? Type of driving. How many miles on vehicle? What exactly is "starting to feel weak"? Where the rotors replaced or turned.
There is always a period of break-in when new pads are replaced. There is a transferring of material from the pads to the rotors. There is a thread talking about not to turn rotors.
If there is no pedal pulsation present then the rotors don't need to be turned but they do need to have the old pad material removed before the new pads are installed. This is done by putting a non directional cut on the rotor. They also need to be washed with soap and water and dried by not using a rag. If this is not done then the new pads will take much longer to transfer new material to the rotor. In the mean time the pedal will feel "different". It could take more pedal pressure to stop the vehicle. 2000 miles of freeway driving could mean that the brakes have not stopped enough to transfer enough material for the break in.

mvicel

Ok, it took me a bit long to get back here... I am not sure what pads are being used on the car, since they were changed in a shop. I've done on them about 3500 miles. My driving is both on the highway and also stop and go traffic. The car is driven spirited, a little more aggressive. In the beginning they were good, but not the stopping power is much worse. I really have to push the pedal hard and also it takes longer to stop... There is no pulsation in the pedal. I can post picture of my brakes a little later...
Thanks for all the input!!!

mvicel

ttt

Carbotech Adam

I would really like to help you, most important is to find what pads you are running. Somthing tells me you are running a full based ceramic pad. You can contact me at 216-780-8825 if you would like to chat about this issue.

bob guzzy

I would have someone check the pads just to see how much pad is left, then if the pads need replacing go with a pad that has a lifetime free replacement.

This way if you can't do your own work at least you won't have to keep buying pads just the labor cost.

Autozone Advance auto and all larger part stores have these pads.

If your only getting 3K out of a set of pads your very hard on brakes and should buy better pads.

BC427

It sounds like there hasn't been enough transferring of material from the new pads to the rotors. You should still find out from the shop the brand name of the pads and if your rotors were turned. My guess is that they were not. As mentioned before from others many brands of pads need to be bedded when new. This speeds up the transferring process. If your relationship with your shop is a good one and they did not turn your rotors I would suggest that they do a light turn on them and then do a bedding procedure.
As for the suggestion that buying pads from a mass merchandiser because of the lifetime warranty. You paid $50,000 plus for this vehicle and you want to put a $20.00 set of pads on it. What is your confidence level that tonight when you drive home that your $20.00 pads will perform to the highest levels when you need them?

Kozzzz

Could it be some trapped air bubbles in the lines? I find it hard to believe that you'd burn through a set of pads in just a couple thousand miles of daily driving, unless your brakes are dragging.

blackvetterzo6

I find it very unusual to see brakes not holding up on a practically new car. I don't care what pad you have. I would bleed the brakes,and check pads. No way you went through pads in 2k miles,unless your driving on the street like a madman. LOL

florida john

I thought that air in the lines could be the culprit, but didn't the OP also say that the pedal was hard? Usually air in the line results in a soft pedal and eventually the need to pump the brakes to stop hard.

A power bleed would eliminate air as the cause and it wouldn't cost much.