How long will a clutch last?
12-06-2011, 05:33 PM
#1
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How long will a clutch last?
How many miles on average can someone expect to get out of their clutch and what does it cost to replace one?
How many miles have you got on yours?
How many miles have you got on yours?
12-06-2011, 06:12 PM
#2
Drifting
Member Since: Jan 2010
Location: Schererville Indiana
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It all depends on driving conditions and how you use it. Stop and go city driving, slipping it too much... it could be gone in 20k miles. Proper use and highway miles it could last a couple 100k miles.
12-06-2011, 06:39 PM
#5
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12-06-2011, 06:43 PM
#6
_Sloth Whisperer_
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Depending on what you mean by spirit.... likely no less than 40k, all the way on up to maybe 140k.
I had 20-something on my stocker when it was pulled. Looked perfect. I now have almost 35k more on an 850lb-ft rated twin disc, still holds tighter than boxer briefs.
I had 20-something on my stocker when it was pulled. Looked perfect. I now have almost 35k more on an 850lb-ft rated twin disc, still holds tighter than boxer briefs.
Last edited by SlickShoes; 12-06-2011 at 06:49 PM.
12-06-2011, 06:53 PM
#9
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Its been 25 years since I have had a manual. What are clutch friendly habits vs clutch killing habits? I assume that dropping the clutch for burn outs and riding the clutch like starting out on hills are not good for them.
12-06-2011, 06:59 PM
#10
_Sloth Whisperer_
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With the torque curve that modern vettes have, sometimes feathering the clutch is just a necessary motion. A good thing to remember is not to ride the clutch, which is to say, rest your foot on the pedal. That'll kill a throwout bearing in quick fashion.
Clutch-dump burnouts are never really a great idea no matter your setup, but done in a water box where there's less resistance on the drivetrain, it won't hurt the clutch any notable amount. If you can't resist the smoke show, the best thing to do is bring your RPM's up and your clutch out to where you feel the engagement and the car creeps forward. At that point, floor it and come swiftly up with the clutch, but don't sidestep it. Again, any form of stationary burnout is going to eat clutch, but if you have to do it or want to do it, that is how to minimize the shock load. Feather the burnout in, and jump onto the brake for a brake stand. Or of course, no brake if it's a rolling burnout.
If you end up with stickier tires or more power, the clutch will be the most heavily taxed and first item to start wearing on you.
Clutch-dump burnouts are never really a great idea no matter your setup, but done in a water box where there's less resistance on the drivetrain, it won't hurt the clutch any notable amount. If you can't resist the smoke show, the best thing to do is bring your RPM's up and your clutch out to where you feel the engagement and the car creeps forward. At that point, floor it and come swiftly up with the clutch, but don't sidestep it. Again, any form of stationary burnout is going to eat clutch, but if you have to do it or want to do it, that is how to minimize the shock load. Feather the burnout in, and jump onto the brake for a brake stand. Or of course, no brake if it's a rolling burnout.
If you end up with stickier tires or more power, the clutch will be the most heavily taxed and first item to start wearing on you.
12-06-2011, 07:16 PM
#13
Race Director
Clutch life can be as short as acouple of minutes. Put it in 6th, put the front bumper against a wall and slip the clutch while you floor it. Lots of smoke and about $2,000 to replace parts.
12-06-2011, 08:25 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
I can attest to this!
12-07-2011, 07:04 AM
#17
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