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After nearly three years of dreaming and fabricating my original of vision of a street driven race car is coming to fruition. What began as a simple engine swap spiraled out of control and essentially re engineered every aspect of the car. Far too many items to list but this is a rough breakdown of what ill be running, Be on the lookout for a first start video soon!
If you're still running a fuel cell and need help getting the sender working with the factory dash let me know, I can make you something that will get it going. Have done it for a few others now without any issues.
If you're still running a fuel cell and need help getting the sender working with the factory dash let me know, I can make you something that will get it going. Have done it for a few others now without any issues.
Hit me up. I have an aeromotive fuel sending unit now
Fozmula make senders that are a direct replacement for the VDO style you have and can do any resistance range too. They're much better quality than VDO too and as cheap.
The problem is more the system expecting 2 sensors and a fuel cell only having one, plus the logic that is expected with the passenger tank draining first then the driver tank
The problem is more the system expecting 2 sensors and a fuel cell only having one, plus the logic that is expected with the passenger tank draining first then the driver tank
More updates:
Got to the dyno and made 580hp at 5k rpm with 5lb springs before findings some problems
1) Oil is aerating above 5k rpm
2) Ignition is breaking up
3) Car running 210*s at idle
4) Boost/ Fuel pressure gauges not giving values
5) Idle air controller only able to add 400rpm
6) Turbos leaking oil
Solutions
1) Discussed with engine builder who recommends 4-5 gallons of oil capacity, after discussing with my fabricator some options including a rear mounted Peterson tank, two smaller tanks, or cutting the frame to fit a larger tank this was the solution:
Started with a 5 gallon dry sump tank sourced locally, it was origionally made for a nascar engine and just collecting dust in a shop, its much larger than the LS7 tank at 23x9in as oppose to 19x7.5.
Tank itself was modified moving the fill laterally and putting a small notch in the curvature to allow the fender to sit flush. We then cut the tank in half to clean out all the shards and rotate the feed line toward the pump
The tank now sits under the fender liner, fiber glass was removed to allow it to sit. The tank sits higher than before and still clears the tire miraculously
To further clean out the tank and ensure no debris from fabrication was left in i washed it out with water circulating through it for 24 hours and then through an oil bath where oil was pumped up and debris was caught in a screen before geting circulated with a pump sucking through an oil filter.
The final plumbing will place a screen pre pump and the filter sees the oil before the engine.
If there is still aeration ill be purchasing a spintric.
Since the tank took up the home of my ECUs the Pro EFI and Pro 70 got mounted in the glove box with minimal modification
2) New coils ordered from pro EFI, since they're a 5 wire design i picked up a wire harness from Holley. I moved the coils from the the fenders to the cowls since I deleted my wipers long ago and wanted easier access to the coils for service. This is also were my TC8 box will be mounted for the EGT sensors
3) Figured out the car car had a 200* thermostat - DOH, any way installed a 160* unit and prospeed fans. Fit was ok, used foam to seal them up better
4) Simple but time consuming to track down the sending unit wires burried in the dash and rewiring to new sending units
5) Drilled and tapped the elbow to give it a direct link to the intake as oppose to off a T with the brake booster, the fuel pressure regulator and map sensor keep their dedicated ports for accuracy
6) Fixed this with a second check valve on the drain side, the system uses two pumps both pre and post turbo but the oil was back feeding since the tank is mounted higher than them,
So now the to do list is much shorter:
-Plumb oil tank
-Install plug wires
-Catch can install
-Start up and check for leaks, change oil and filter then hopefully we can spin this engine to 8500 rpm
-Tune for meth injection, E85, E100 and a secret shot of nos
-Wire management
-Clean up
Last edited by SinisterC6; 09-08-2019 at 02:03 AM.
Just curious, I can't tell from the picture but are going to put your tunnel plate back on or is it on??
Its already on, I think once its working well I want to make panels to get the undercarriage more aerodynamic
This week got the tank painted and mounted, Mounted catch can, Mounted coils, finished wiring, cut away some metal to store all the connectors out of site
Started it up without leaks, Oil pressure now 45 at idle up from 30. Still have some non functional fuel level, fuel pressure and oil temp gauges and difficulty to get the Pro 128 and Pro70 to talk to one another. In the past this got fixed with a resistor in the CAN system.
My friend is going to work through all the wiring and do some pulls to 9k to test the oil pump
More updates in a week!
Lining up catch can Made a bracket to mount to firewall Wires tucked under catch can So many wires TC8 box getting tucked into cowl Smart coils, the driver side just stores them where the wiper motor was Hand made plug wires, lots of dielectric grease Wires tucked in Filled with 5 gallons of oil, no leaks Tank mounted, will result in a slight bulge of the fender but no more than the proEFI wires did before
Last edited by SinisterC6; 09-11-2019 at 01:21 AM.
Looks like a perfect time to re-wire as stand alone!
Its tough, certainly not playing nicely with the 128. Zach trouble shot it because we can connect to either ECU separately however it disconnects after a few seconds if theyre together, At one point he figured out it was due to a resistor required in the CAN system but the gremlin showed up tonight.
As it sits the Pro128 does the brunt of the work and the 70 controls all the pumps outback, starter and some other outputs
Hes going to look at it again in the morning and make sure nothing changed with the rewire
Its tough, certainly not playing nicely with the 128. Zach trouble shot it because we can connect to either ECU separately however it disconnects after a few seconds if theyre together, At one point he figured out it was due to a resistor required in the CAN system but the gremlin showed up tonight.
As it sits the Pro128 does the brunt of the work and the 70 controls all the pumps outback, starter and some other outputs
Hes going to look at it again in the morning and make sure nothing changed with the rewire
We had an issue early on with a CAN conflict between the stock ECU, Pro128 and a TPMS box. Caused my gauges to do weird random things. Removed the TPMS box and it went away.
I also had an issue running non-resistor plugs where the ProEFI dash logger would reset itself randomly. Brisk resistor plugs and Firecore wires solved that.
I've built a little box that gets the factory fuel level gauge going if you need something like that. I'm not sure if one of the other things you have can do it or how that works but figured I'd throw it out there. It usually takes a few times back and forth getting it calibrated right but they work after that. Converts the single sender 10-100 ohms or whatever to the 2x0-2.5V signals that the ECM is expecting and follows the correct filling/emptying logic, etc. that makes it think everything is working normally.
I've built a little box that gets the factory fuel level gauge going if you need something like that. I'm not sure if one of the other things you have can do it or how that works but figured I'd throw it out there. It usually takes a few times back and forth getting it calibrated right but they work after that. Converts the single sender 10-100 ohms or whatever to the 2x0-2.5V signals that the ECM is expecting and follows the correct filling/emptying logic, etc. that makes it think everything is working normally.
Ive got a autometer sending unit now: 240 ohms empty, 33 ohms full, the origional sender had to go because it was inaccurate in my metal tank. Im going to mess with this and plan on purchasing yours if it doesnt work
Sounds good. Shouldn’t be an issue to adjust for that sender. Just let me know. My PM’s are full but email me through the forum if you need to get in touch with me
04-12-2019, 03:13 PM
