codename Bil Doe

Part III: F55 Switch Wiring

parts used (as listed in previous posts):

p/n 15237510 - F55 console switch.

p/n 88988116 - F55 female connector plug. Dealers don't have a picture of this plug, but it is the right one. if you don't want to buy it, you can cut the one out of your wiring harness that is already in your center console and not being used.

Add-a-circuit - this can be picked up from Pep Boys or Autozone for couple bucks.
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This procedure is written up for using the F55 switch to control the vacuum solenoid. A wireless switch can easily be substituted.

Beginning with the hot wire you fed from the solenoid to through the trunk wall, run the wire behind the carpeting and molding along the right side of the car.



Run the wires under the speaker panel. Feed the wire over the strut mounting point but run it under the speaker. The plastics do not have to be removed to do this.



Finish by running the hot wire along the door sill and into the passenger footwell.



Here is the F55 switch installed. Unfortunately, I took it apart and, when wired up, "sport" will function as closed and "tour" as open. If you want, you can remove the lettering.



IMPORTANT: READ CAREFULLY! These are two methods to wiring the F55 switch:

I Have taken the switch apart and found through analysis of the circuit that these are two proven methods to get it to work and what to look for if it isn't working. Please read this carefully as the female plug going into the F55 switch has four wires coming off of it. If you do not follow the jumper procedure as I have wired up the switch, the light in the switch will work but the solenoid will not activate. This is explained below.

Method 1

As you are just using the F55 as a continuity switch, only two wires are needed. I used the two wires as shown in the picture and cut the other two. Note which two wires are left. Because the switch completes a circuit, it doesn't matter which wire is sent to the add-a-circuit in the next step.



IMPORTANT!!!! If you use these two wires, you must solder in a jumper on the bottom of the switch. It is not necessary to take apart the switch to do this. Just solder a jumper from the lead to the edge where the green circle is shown:



What this does:

With the jumper, you are making a bridge around the internal switch light. The purpose of this is as follows. Without the jumper, the closed circuit will run through the switch bulb first before going to the solenoid. This allows the light to work; but, there is internal circuitry (most likely a diode) that bleeds off excess current to ground so the battery doesn't blow the light bulb from a surge. What this does is cause the vacuum solenoid to have 12V but not enough current to switch. By adding the jumper, you are bypassing the light and creating a direct shot from the circuit block to the solenoid. It is possible to have the light function, too, but I'll leave that up to you.

Method 2

Wire everything exactly the same but use the center two wires on the plug into the F55 switch. This bypasses any need for a jumper as these two wires bypass the bulb.

OK, back on track. In the footwell, you should now have 3 wires:

-Two wires from the F55 switch (I ran two black wires)
-One white wire from the vacuum solenoid.

Connect one of the F55 switch wires to the add-a-circuit. The other black wire should be connected to the white wire from the solenoid.



Finally, Plug the add-a-circuit into a switchable 12V source. Most people use the heated seat circuit, but you can also use the cruise control circuit.

Bone Daddy

Freakin great write up brother Bill Doe!

Hey you might want to find another fuse location. (a switched location). Why? The lower right is always hot and if you leave your
F55 switch "on" so that 12v is supplied to the OEM solenoid switch.....it will drain your battery in about 3-4 days. Ask me how I know this! Hahaha.

Thanks again for the two connectors you sent me!!!

Bone

codename Bil Doe

Np! Thanks for the tip. I switched it back over to the heated seats fuse. If you look at where it's located in the picture, that fuse is always hot but it's a special fuse location that works well for this thread .

vlocty

Hey Bil Doe, Do you have any pics of the connectors used on the solenoid? Local dealer is a pain and I would like to show them what I need or try to find it somewhere else. Thanks.

codename Bil Doe

p/n 89046833 - Connector for vacuum solenoid. Expensive but worth it for waterproof seal and cleanliness

I didn't take a picture of the actual connector, but they should have no problem bringing it up on their computer and ordering it with the part #.

codename Bil Doe

Added more important info on the switch wiring. I completed the project and everything works great. I'll post the final vacuum line routing info and then put this in a clean thread which makes it easier to read and where others can put their tips / different procedures.

Vettlldo

I have included this last piece in a Word document and created a PDF file of this entire process. Thanks to codename Bil Doe for the great write-up! It looks like I need to update my membership so I can post files like the PDF.

Ed

codename Bil Doe

Thanks, Ed. When I get part IV typed up do you mind throwing your info and ideas on the new thread? I want to start a new one so it's easier to read and laid out step-by-step instead of shuffling through all the posts.

Vettlldo

Not a problem. I can send you the original Word document now so you can peruse it at your convenience. I took some liberties on formatting (spelling; grammar; sentence structure) but it isn't too far off from your original version. I also added the GM exhaust diagram, an explanation of how it all works (from the GM Service Manual) and the parts callout that links back to the diagram so it's easier for everyone to follow.

Send me a PM with your email address and I will forward the original document. I will be checking email later tonight since I am heading out to a Corvette event in about an hour.

Ed

vlocty

Bill Doe, Bone Daddy and Ed. You guys rock! With out you I would not have had the idea to follow in your footsteps with this mod.

codename Bil Doe

Part IV: Running vacuum lines

parts used:

-5/16" x 5/16" compression fitting (OSH or Home Depot)
-1/2" x 1/2" x 3/8" nylon tee (brass if you can find it. haven't looked. www.hardwarestore.com)
-5/16" compression x 1/8" MPT fitting (www.hardwarestore.com)
-1/8" FPT x 3/8" barb (OSH or Home Depot)
-5/16" alum tubing (picked up some from Summit Racing)
-teflon tape
-p/n 15782801 - #9 - Vacuum Pipe. Good for it's proprietary connector to vaccuum solenoid connection and to run 1/2 way up the center tunnel before splicing.
-pipe cutter or similar
-3/8" vacuum hose, approx 1ft.
-zip ties

A quick connection before getting started. Also, make sure to use teflon tape on all threads for extra security against leaks. Attach the 1/8" FPT x 3/8" barb to the 5/16" compression with teflon tape. When mounted to the aluminum tubing, it will mate with the nylon tee at the brake booster line.

Just remember when spliced, the connections will look like this only pointing down instead of up. I was holding it pointed up to make it easier to see.



Make sure you lay out enough tubing to reach. The aluminum tubing must be long enough to bend upwards at the front of the motor to reach the brake booster and go back far enough to reach the rear diff. It will be slightly shortened later.



Here is the end of the vacuum pipe. When connected, this will be pointing down and mating up with the line coming off of the solenoid. The line from the solenoid splits, one side going to the vacuum reservoir and one side going to the vacuum pipe.



The pipe on the left is where it will insert.



The two pipes will be joined with the 5/16" x 5/16" compression fitting.



Wriggle the vacuum pipe in between the suspension and under the half shaft. Before doing this, you can cut it just before it makes the bend toward part #10 in the diagram. This will leave you more than enough pipe to mate to the alum tubing.

Start by feeding the aluminum tubing over the tunnel plate. This will take a little patience and back-and-forth, but can be done in under 10 minutes. Because you are going up at an angle, bend it slightly down as you feed it into the front side of the tunnel plate and life will be much easier.

Once it comes out the other side, keep feeding it all the way through. This makes it much easier to bend it upward toward the brake booster and feed it through.

Bend as you go to avoid contact with potential rattle points. I ran the alum tubing down the driver's side of the tunnel plate and then wrapped it over to the passenger's side under the tranny.

Use pieces of the vacuum tubing to isolate the aluminum tubing from hard contact points, such as the ends of the tunnel plate and when wrapping under the transmission and along the frame. Cut a 3" piece of tubing and then slice down its length to allow you to slip it over the tubing. Hold in place with a zip tie.

Tube routing under the transmission behind the xpipe:



You should now have the #9 pipe and the aluminum tubing meeting each other around the area of the transmission with plenty of excess. Use the pipe cutter to shorten the tubes appropriately, attach with the compression fitting, and bend/shape the tube to avoid hard contact points. Use tubing and zip ties to cover any contact points and prevent rattles.



Finally, attach the 3/8" barb with compression fitting to the end of the tubing that you fed up along the firewall. It should be pointing directly at the brake booster hose.



Splice the nylon tee into the brake booster hose. Both 3/8" barbed ends should be facing each other and can be connected with a length of 3/8" tubing.




Make 500hp, gut your cats, switch the butterflies off, and enjoy!

vlocty

Finished header / muffler install this weekend. Any all I can say is wow! I love the deep tone at idle with the valve open. Neighbors may get tired of it though. Vavles closed and it is close to stock at idle. Thanks again to the guys before me who helped out with all of the info and advice. CF rocks!

Used all OEM parts for vacuum piping and it looks / works great. Routing the preformed piping through the tunnel was a little tough but it looks completly stock, matches up with the fuel lines. Used the extra vacuum port on the back side of the intake manifold. It is located on the passenger side next to the brake booster port. The little plastic tab sealing the port just breaks off and the port is ready for use. The OEM piping includes a check valve w/ tubing that connects to this port.

When wiring up my switch I notice that even with the engine off the valves will close. The vacuum line (forward of the solenoid) must retain the vacuum. On the Z, it may be possible that the solenoid receives power shortly before cranking to start with the valves closed. Had an issue with my RPM switch so I have not finished the wiring yet.

codename Bil Doe

I might reroute to that extra vacuum port. What size hose does it take?

Also, make sure you're pulling power from a switchable source (heated seats, cruise control, etc.). I've been told you can drain your battery otherwise leaving it in the closed position.

vlocty

I used the OEM hose, it looks to be 1/4" OD. It is the same size as the rubber hoses on the back by the solenoid. The OEM hose is a heavy duty hose compared to those as to survive being in the engine compartment. You will need a mirror to see the fitting on the back of the manifold. It is a pain to get to but if you have the tools to reach it it and remove the plastic tab it works great. You can fit your hands back there to plug in the hose, tools are required to break the tab.

Yeah I plan on using a power source that is ingnition triggered, ie. stays on through the starting period. Accesory triggered may turn off during the start. I have a service manual so I need to look for a safe place to pull power.

codename Bil Doe

Save time cutting wires and just buy an add-a-circuit. Can find them online or in most auto parts stores. Plugs into the fuse panel in the passenger footwell and doesn't affect the accessory from which you pull power. It uses a separate fuse than the one being used for the accessory.

Vettlldo

Great to hear it's all hooked up Vlocty! I attached 3 PDF's for the instructions to the other thread here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1726443

SunsetOrangeCreations

I know I have been posting a lot about how I like this mod and it was easy. Well it is easy, just a little involved. I wasnt the first to do it so some good info was already available!

I want to add a little more help for people who may be doing this mod themselves.

There are 5 main GM vac pipes. #1 from the intake maifold to the vac pipe that goes from the engine compartment to the side of the tranny. #2 from the engine compartment to the side of the tranny, #3 from the side of the tranny to the rear under the facia. #4 from the rear pipe to the valve and vac canister, #5 from the valve to the butterflies. These numbers are not what is on the spec sheet they are just the order from front to back.
You should be able to make out all the parts frm the previous posts.

If you use all gm vac tubing, almost all the clips and connectors are already on the car. Once installed it is just like the z06 or npp exhaust minus the bcm computer control of the valves. It looks stock and is very clean.

You will need to remove the tunnel plate when you install the gm vac pipe #2 from the engine compartment to the side of the tranny.

There are two clips along side the torque tube on the body that have a vacant slot to hold the vac pipe. They hold the fuel lines and have a vacant spot. Hmmm...its like gm knew there was going to be something there. Mines an 05 built in 04......

There is also a clip connector next to the drivers side cat on the body that has a vacant spot for the vac pipe as well. I wasnt able to open it though... Its fine without that one.

There is a clip thats right next to the brake booster with a 10mm nut that has a vacant spot for the vac pipe in the engine compartment.

The #1 gm vac pipe with the check valve connects to the rear vac port on the intake manifold and then to the #2 vac pipe that leads to the side of the tranny that you just installed. Its way easier with the fuel rail covers off.
You will need to pop the tab that is sealing the port on the intake. Its hard to get to. Be carefull!


The #3 rear vac pipe runs from the rear facia above the tranny over to the #2 vac pipe that comes from the front. It clips to the fuel line above the tranny.

You can install the vac solenoid and #4 and #5 lines through the rear bumper from underneath with the mufflers out. Feed the line and solenoid up from the bottom in between the bumper foam and rear compartment. Feed the #5 butterfly line up the center between the foam and the rear facia. Its a tight fit...You will have to reach through the rear passenger taillight hole to install the solenoid screw so hopefully your arms are small. If not you may need to remove the rear facia, but I would just get someone who can reach through, its so much easier.

The vac canister can be installed under the passenger cargo area without removing the rear facia.

You should be able to get to the spot to run the wire through without removing the facia as well. Small arms helps out here.

I was able to do the whole job without removing the rear facia.

Wire up however you want to make it work, I like my Ultimate Exhaust Commander to open the valves at a user specified rpm as well as full open and full closed modes.

If I think of anything else I did, I will update this post. I know I may be missing something I did but this should set the stage for others to follow.

With Bil Doe's instructions and a little extra info from me and others anyone should be able to do this mod fairly easily.

Thanks to Bil Doe, Vetlldo and Miaugi for a lot of the great info in this thread.

5clubLS2

Wish the pictures were still active on this thread

TCW

Me too!

Tom

harrydirty

See post #78......there is link to another thread. In that thread you will find three pdf files that transcribe the exact instructions along with the pictures.