JoesC5

The OP said he wanted a streetable cam and that he has an A6. That leaves out all those "shake, rattle & roll" cams that you guys love. How about giving him a cam spec that will meet his needs and then warrant that your cam spec will give him 500 rwhp and that he will be able to drive it on the street without having to carry his dentist in the car. At least I have given him some engine builds that a major engine builder considers streetable and the horsepower he can expect.

White_Lightning

Alot of the "shake and rattle" can be tuned out.. my car has a BIG cam on a 111 lobe.. at at idle it Barely "shakes and rattles".. as a matter of fact most people dont believe how big the cam is. Sure, if you tune it to idle at 550 rpm. it will shake the car.. but a nice 850-900 rpm idle.. no problem.. This isnt a 1993 sedan deville, it's a sports car.. a little bit of violence never hurt anyone in their vette..

JoesC5

So, you're saying that your cam will be a perfect match with his A6 idling at 850-900 RPM.

Ragtop 99

It would be helpful if we knew the OP's definition of "streetable."
He went for the big monster cam and was told it wasn't real streetable. had he gone one step lower, that post probably would not exist. Before the swap, he was the rare one that was under 500 RWHP with a cam and headers on a Z06. All the rest that I posted had no issue and were well above 500 RWHP.You won't find many people with a 520 - 540 rwhp Z06 that find it unstreetable if the engine was tuned by top tuner.

The point was that your statement that LS3 can't make 500 rwhp in a streetable fashion is based upon your LS7 and started from a faulty premise that 500 RWHP is some magic barrier in an LS7. With that myth busted, we can discuss that there are LS3's over 500 rwhp so maybe it's possible to do in an A6 given the OP didn't limit the question to stock heads or stock compression.

69dodgecharger

His cam choices are not limited because of the A6 tranny. Ever hear of a stall converter?
And like I said "streetable" has a very broad definition. A car that lopes at idle and possibly has a light surge is streetable to some but not others, the OP needs to define what his thoughts are. The beauty of an auto with a stall is that it makes the bigger cams even more street friendly.
A texas speed 231/236 would probably get him real close to where he wants to be

JoesC5

So, you're saying a big "shake, rattle & roll" cam that increased the horsepower some 90(with other MODS) over a stock LS7(553 v 465) is going to raise the horsepower of a LS3 some 135 horses, with other MODS(500 v 365) and still be streetable for a A6 transmission.

I said 500 HP, or a little over,on a LS7 (that would be 10-15 horsepower to my thinking), so maybe 515 HP v 553 HP that has a "shake, rattle, and roll" cam is not streetable to me based on the quote I posted.

So my comparison between the horsepower that I would consider streetable in my LS7 (500-515) can not be used to compare what he should expect from his LS3? After all he does have 51 cu in less displacement and has to have a cam that is compatible with an auto transmission.

My 51 extra cu in should be good for at least 60 horsepower over an identical MOD'd LS3. So, if I had the 553 HP "shake, rattle & roll" cam and then subtracted that 60 horses I would have 493 HP in a LS3. Are you sure that the "shake, rattle & roll" cam that got 553 horses out of a LS7 is going to be a 500 horsepower engine that will still be streetable with an automatic transmission?

JoesC5

At least I provided the OP some info on REAL engine builds and the hosepower they produced. What did you provide, other then to attack me personally? Go laugh your F$%&*&%^# *** off somewhere else. You offer nothing to this subject.
The people posting, including me, but not you, have not made any personal attacks, as we are debating a subject that we have different opinions on.

White_Lightning

Like several have said, he will need a stall.. but with a stall he shouldnt have an issue.

White_Lightning

[/LIST][/LIST]i know SEVERAL people who ran my cam + stall and put down around 500 rwhp in A6's that they daily drove with no problems.

JoesC5

As long as the OP realizes that he will need a high stall converter to run a big cam to get his 500 horses, then I agree. I've only had one car with a big cam and an auto, but it was a Saturday Night Special, so I never really drove it much more then 1/4 mile at a time. Never to work or to cruise in. 1964 Malibu with a 1969 427/435hp out of a wrecked Vette that I had headers, a TH400 with stall, and a 4.56 gears. That was back in 1970. To much of a difference for me to to compare with a LS3.

hungryhippo

There are plenty of M6 cars making 500hp with a small cam (225 to 230 intake duration) that idle around 800rpm. Since he has an auto, add some cnc'd heads and ported intake, that should make 500 very streetable horsepower. a higher stall may not even be needed.

SpinMonster

A cammed Z06 is 550rwhp and over 600rwhp with heads.

A cammed M6 LS3 car will and has hit as much as 509rwhp. If you run Trick Flow 235's and a 236 cam in a LS3 you have 535rwhp.

I doubt an A6 LS3 will hit 500rwhp without heads. It may barely do it with trick flow 235's. No way its doing it with the LS3 heads. They are garbage and give up 30rwhp to the TF 235 even if theyre ported.

SpinMonster

I want to know what cam some experienced that was shake and rattle. Most people simply repeating the same nonsense they read on the net have never experienced a good cammed LS3 that made 480-500rwhp. Most people who go in my car with my cam are surprised that it is cammed. The trick to making a cam behave is to limit overlap by using wider LSA's and narrow splits since big splits do nothing for power under the HP peak.

A 4 degree overlap cam drives great and doesnt shake and rattle and yes its made between 493 and 504rwhp on 11 cars to date that I have been involved with. All drive fine with minimal lope and none have bucking or surging. Trick Flow 235 heads will take this up 30hp from there. The LS3 head is garbage for budget builds even ported.

godzilladude

Thanks very much to everyone for all the feedback, especially Spin. By "streetable", I do mean that it doesn't require a hi-stall converter to get it to move, something that can cruise and go easy when needed. Most folks find my car rough, between the SC runflats, Bilstein Sports, and lowered stance. Me, I think it feels great! So a little roughness doesn't bother me. What DOES bother me is a car that can't pull at light throttle, that you always have to goose to get it to move. I'd want a cam that would function with a stock converter.

The Jones I'm feeding is to do 200 on a dry lake bed, and that will take close to 500HP. Oh, it calculated out to maybe 470, but you don't want to build close and be short by THAAAAT much . So, 500 is a good number. For this kind of thang, a blower is a simple choice.

The other Jones, I don't drag race or street race, but I do like to road race. And I've heard lots of talk about the challenges and shortcomings of road racing with a blower. But up until Spin started talking about the new cam, 500HP N/A just didn't seem likely, at least with a cam I'd be happy with in the daily driver. Yeah, I know, I need three cars. Next Lotto, that's what I'll do. Till then, I'll have to be smarter and creative. Things that go well with cheap and lazy, my other strong attributes. Don't want to spend a lot of money, and don't especially want to do much of the work myself, in my advancing years.

The blower, I'd just spend the money for new and pay someone to do the job right. The N/A route, hmmm, I might be tempted to pick up some of those items used, and do at least some of the install myself, to save some money. And if it gets me there cheaper, leaves me some extra cash for coolers, etc., that'd be OK!

Anyway, enough prattle, thanks for all the input. I find it interesting that apparently not many A6s do a lot of engine modding. But I suppose I can understand that.

Later!

FloydSummerOf68

If you want a stock converter you wont see near those numbers then with an N/A setup.

Why don't you want to move up to a higher stall converter? It makes every aspect of driving an auto better. Crisper shifts, better shift extension, better response, MUCH better launch capability...

Also, why do you get the feeling that not a lot of A6's mod their engines? That certainly isn't the case.

godzilladude

My own experience with high stall converters is you get poor action at under 3000 rpm. I really don't want to have the car revved all the time. If you're telling me it'll drive at low rpm with no issues just like stock, that's great. But otherwise, I ain't a drag racer, I have no interest in launch. I can clean up shifting speeds, etc., with a tune. And how does the stall converter make more power? Maybe I just don't understand modern converters.

Most the folks that I see on here with mods have M6s. And if all-out performance is the goal, I can see that as the simpler way to get there. I imagine in drag racing the A6 can be quite the beast, and competitive. But not everyone drag races. But it's all just my opinion, I haven't done a poll or anything.

Unreal

My z06 made 545rwhp on a prefectly streetable cam. Car drives great. My friends made 560rwhp with a smaller cam and just milling the heads .030.

FloydSummerOf68

What has your experience with a high stall converter been? MY C6 has a 3200 converter (a little loose feeling, but certainly tight enough for a daily driver by any standards...wish I had gone 3600) my previous fbody had a 2700 converter (VERY tight...wife's daily driver), and my 02 firebird had a 3500 converter that I daily drove and it was tight enough to feel great at low rpms.

The 3200 converter in my car takes a LITTLE more gas to get going than stock, but by no means feels sluggish down low. If anything, your car will feel more sluggish down low if you cam it without doing the converter.

You can clean up shift speeds with a tune, but it still wont shift like a car that has a good converter and is tuned.

I never said a converter makes more power, but it does shift quicker, has better shift extension, better response from a roll, and better launches. I'll never drive an automatic with the stock converter in it.

OCCOMSRAZOR

If you like to road race, (and by that I assume you are refering to HPDE's on an actual track) Don't bother modding the motor at all. Spend your money on transmission and differential coolers, brake pads and rotors, and tires.

If you truly are "cheap and lazy" stay away from actual W2W road racing. It requires a tremendous amount of energy and effort, and a foolish amount of cash.

hungryhippo

i still say you can get close to 500 with a small cam that will let you keep the stock stall and cnc'd heads.