How to replace a fuel pump
03-04-2012, 03:03 PM
#82
Both tubes and one hook, probably because my dumabss left about a gallon(16th tank) of gas in the tank and didn't drain it like I was supposed too. Another word of advice to those doing this, buy a gas can if all yours are being used! One gallon is HEAVY lying on your back.
03-07-2012, 07:06 PM
#83
My tubes should be here this weekend (thanks parts taxi) So whats the trick to plugging those brittle little tubes in without breaking them again?
I'm gonna try to get the pass. tank lower somehow.
Anyone have any advice for a heavy handed wannabee mechanic?
I'm gonna try to get the pass. tank lower somehow.
Anyone have any advice for a heavy handed wannabee mechanic?
03-07-2012, 08:03 PM
#84
Safety Car
Thread Starter
My 24" height suggestion was just a WAG but more is better.
03-07-2012, 08:06 PM
#85
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Lube up everything...heavily! Just drop the 5 bolts under the passenger tank and let it hang and don't forget to unclip that fastener for the crossover tube which is above the transmission.
03-07-2012, 08:55 PM
#86
Thanks
I did all that already but I think I'm going to try and give myself a little more room horizontally on the crossover tube maybe by pulling the pass tank down some? I just don't want to break that tube again!
What should I use for lube? regular oil or a marvel mystery oil?
On a side note those quick connect fittings may go in quick but I sure had to fight with them to disconnect. It doesn't seem like the flat buttons did anything to release even when I pushed in then out.
I did all that already but I think I'm going to try and give myself a little more room horizontally on the crossover tube maybe by pulling the pass tank down some? I just don't want to break that tube again!
What should I use for lube? regular oil or a marvel mystery oil?
On a side note those quick connect fittings may go in quick but I sure had to fight with them to disconnect. It doesn't seem like the flat buttons did anything to release even when I pushed in then out.
03-06-2013, 09:25 PM
#87
1st Gear
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For the record, I do not own a vette. However, I am mechanically inclined.
I just finished installing a new FSU fuel sending unit in the passenger tank of my friends 2007 Corvette with the automatic 6 speed. Can it be done without dropping the transmission.....absolutely. Do I recommend it without having some mechanical background and having the ability to make tools do things they are not designed to do, hell no. It took me roughly 23 hrs and quite a few breaks just so I could feel my fingers again.
The 2 parts that really made me contemplate towing it to the dealer were the crossover tube and the evap hose just above it. The evap hose really kicked me in the pants (front side:O). After the 3rd hour, i finally got it to release. It took a hard pinch/squeeze, with some pulling/twisting/cursing and then it finally pulled free.
Now for the crossover tube, the one thing I could not find in the forums was how to release the black lock ring on the tube. It is locked in a groove so you have to pull back on the little half-moon tab really hard and it will snap out. Then rotate it to get it out of the way. Then rotate the tube counterclockwise to release it from the tank. Make sure you pull it loose from the C clamp directly above the trans. I removed the mount plate from the drivers side tank and let it drop until it was being held up by the crossover tube connection. I also disconnected the filler hose so it would drop a little more. Once it is lowered, I was able to reach up and pull the tube with my left hand while pulling/yanking the passenger side of the tube with my right hand (basically hugging the trans). This gave it some slack but not enough to removed the passenger tank. I then grabbed my tie rod fork and pried the tube out enough to get the tank to drop. Completely miserable. I replaced the FSU inside the tank, and went to bed.
The next morning, I lubed up ALL the seals and tubes inside the crossfeed tube with silicone lubricant spray to make it easier and to keep from rolling any seals. I reinstalled the pass tank. I used the tie rod fork again to pry the tube back far enough to lift the tank up into place (took a few attempts). Once the tank was in place, the tube popped into place after releasing the tension from the tie rod. After an hour of trying to reconnect the crossfeed tube, I lubed up the attach point on the tank side with silicone spray and it finally locked on. The rest of the job was fairly simple and self explanatory.
I would not have been able to do it without the great experts from this forum.
Things I did to remove the passenger side tank on the automatic:
Jacked the rear about 16" and rested on jack stands. (I jack the car another 8" when I was ready to slide the tank out from under the car)
removed the exhaust from the H-pipe back
removed rear sway bar
removed both rear inner fender wells (really simple)
There is only enough room to get one hand in-between the trans and tank to remove the crossfeed tube and evap hose. You must listen to your body and take frequent breaks. I will follow this post for a few days in case anyone has questions. I only recommend doing this is you don't mind some cuts and bruises.
I only did the pass side because it kicked out the P2068 fault code. It fixed the gauge issues and eng light.
I only charged my co-worker $500, but looking back now, I should have done it for no less than $800. Still not bad considering the dealer was going to charge $1600 just in labor. My other buddy has an 07 manual with about the same mileage. His gauge is working for now but when it comes time to change his, it will be much easier....I hope.
DP
I just finished installing a new FSU fuel sending unit in the passenger tank of my friends 2007 Corvette with the automatic 6 speed. Can it be done without dropping the transmission.....absolutely. Do I recommend it without having some mechanical background and having the ability to make tools do things they are not designed to do, hell no. It took me roughly 23 hrs and quite a few breaks just so I could feel my fingers again.
The 2 parts that really made me contemplate towing it to the dealer were the crossover tube and the evap hose just above it. The evap hose really kicked me in the pants (front side:O). After the 3rd hour, i finally got it to release. It took a hard pinch/squeeze, with some pulling/twisting/cursing and then it finally pulled free.
Now for the crossover tube, the one thing I could not find in the forums was how to release the black lock ring on the tube. It is locked in a groove so you have to pull back on the little half-moon tab really hard and it will snap out. Then rotate it to get it out of the way. Then rotate the tube counterclockwise to release it from the tank. Make sure you pull it loose from the C clamp directly above the trans. I removed the mount plate from the drivers side tank and let it drop until it was being held up by the crossover tube connection. I also disconnected the filler hose so it would drop a little more. Once it is lowered, I was able to reach up and pull the tube with my left hand while pulling/yanking the passenger side of the tube with my right hand (basically hugging the trans). This gave it some slack but not enough to removed the passenger tank. I then grabbed my tie rod fork and pried the tube out enough to get the tank to drop. Completely miserable. I replaced the FSU inside the tank, and went to bed.
The next morning, I lubed up ALL the seals and tubes inside the crossfeed tube with silicone lubricant spray to make it easier and to keep from rolling any seals. I reinstalled the pass tank. I used the tie rod fork again to pry the tube back far enough to lift the tank up into place (took a few attempts). Once the tank was in place, the tube popped into place after releasing the tension from the tie rod. After an hour of trying to reconnect the crossfeed tube, I lubed up the attach point on the tank side with silicone spray and it finally locked on. The rest of the job was fairly simple and self explanatory.
I would not have been able to do it without the great experts from this forum.
Things I did to remove the passenger side tank on the automatic:
Jacked the rear about 16" and rested on jack stands. (I jack the car another 8" when I was ready to slide the tank out from under the car)
removed the exhaust from the H-pipe back
removed rear sway bar
removed both rear inner fender wells (really simple)
There is only enough room to get one hand in-between the trans and tank to remove the crossfeed tube and evap hose. You must listen to your body and take frequent breaks. I will follow this post for a few days in case anyone has questions. I only recommend doing this is you don't mind some cuts and bruises.
I only did the pass side because it kicked out the P2068 fault code. It fixed the gauge issues and eng light.
I only charged my co-worker $500, but looking back now, I should have done it for no less than $800. Still not bad considering the dealer was going to charge $1600 just in labor. My other buddy has an 07 manual with about the same mileage. His gauge is working for now but when it comes time to change his, it will be much easier....I hope.
DP
06-23-2013, 08:53 PM
#88
now after all of this.. explain why the carpet can't be pulled back and a "trap door" couldn't be made above the pump?
obviously this is an Fbody but kinda like this..
obviously this is an Fbody but kinda like this..
Last edited by Dave02C5; 06-23-2013 at 08:56 PM.
06-23-2013, 09:27 PM
#90
Tech Contributor
That post is a keeper....if I was a flat rate Vette Mechanic I'd be taking note of that picture...matter of fact I'm going to send it to my flat rate buddies!
Edit...oh that's an f-bod. Wonder if someone has a pic of this on a Vette...
06-23-2013, 09:33 PM
#91
Cruising
Member Since: Jun 2012
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At work we have a transmission jack we use for jobs like these. With the 2-direction tilt it makes it a little easier to get the tank/crossover positioned just right to remove the crossover tube.
That operation always reminds me of axle swaps in something like a FWD car with a lot of miles. You pry and pry and beat and beat... then it just magically comes out lol...
The inherent issue with the crossover tube is kind of similar to how the stock exhaust and intermediate are laid in the car. The gas tank basically wont move outward, and the opposite side tank keeps the crossover from pulling inward. Thus the struggle....
As for a quick access trap door like people make on the f-bodies... It just happens to work out smooth that the f-body floor and tank are at nice sports with each other.
When we do another one I might look into the possibility of a trap door.
That operation always reminds me of axle swaps in something like a FWD car with a lot of miles. You pry and pry and beat and beat... then it just magically comes out lol...
The inherent issue with the crossover tube is kind of similar to how the stock exhaust and intermediate are laid in the car. The gas tank basically wont move outward, and the opposite side tank keeps the crossover from pulling inward. Thus the struggle....
As for a quick access trap door like people make on the f-bodies... It just happens to work out smooth that the f-body floor and tank are at nice sports with each other.
When we do another one I might look into the possibility of a trap door.
06-23-2013, 10:11 PM
#92
Im in the process of trying to find people that did the trap door method. I just wondered why more people didnt do it that way, than go through the hassle of removing the tank(s). Can all the hoses be disconnected from the fuel pump assembly from the top? I have many questions, but I might be doing it soon and I will be amazed if I'm the first one.
06-25-2013, 03:46 PM
#94
06-25-2013, 04:46 PM
#95
Tech Contributor
06-25-2013, 08:19 PM
#96
Tech Contributor
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Here is the C6 ZO6 Frame as a cutaway demo. Just remember most of the sender looks like it is under the support that the cross over pipe runs thru.
Here is a C5 ZO6 Steel frame. Very similur to the C6 frame.. Look at the C5 plate. That is what the C6 one will look like when it isnt a cut away version.
Here is a C5 ZO6 Steel frame. Very similur to the C6 frame.. Look at the C5 plate. That is what the C6 one will look like when it isnt a cut away version.
06-25-2013, 08:38 PM
#97
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Like I said earlier, you are not going to pull the pump out the top without some major cutting. The additional photos posted above reinforce that fact. For the record, I can drop the driver's side tank on an MN6 car in about 30 minutes. 
06-25-2013, 09:10 PM
#98
Tech Contributor
Did you do a how to thread a while back? Seems now I remember one.
06-25-2013, 09:18 PM
#99
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Actually getting the tank out on a manual transmission car is easy after you've done it a time or two. I'd do them all day long at 50% of what the dealer charges if I had a guaranteed flow of cars. Heck, one a day would keep me happy! I have still not done a car with an automatic trans though.