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Disassembling and Inspecting Clutch Slave Cylinder

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Old 09-04-2020, 01:59 AM
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JonnyCap
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Default Disassembling and Inspecting Clutch Slave Cylinder

I'm doing an engine rebuild, and along with installing a new clutch and flywheel, I was considering whether or not I needed to replace the slave cylinder. It's almost another $180 on top of around $550 for the clutch kit, so I wanted to make sure it was actually worth it. My clutch was working just fine before I tore my car apart for an engine rebuild at 52k miles, on a car that had seen some hard use from a previous owner.

I searched and couldn't find any information, but it seemed as though the slave could be rebuilt by using a new seal. Of course it's not something you can buy separately, at least from what I could find - it has a part number on it, but Google didn't come up with anything. I decided to disassemble mine to inspect, which is an easy task - pop the retaining ring off of the top, remove bearing support, and apply light air pressure to the hydraulic inlet (careful not to send it flying). Although the seal seems to be in great shape, the housing is showing signs of wear. Sticking a feeler gauge down in there, I could feel it getting caught in the scoring shown in the last picture as lighter marks towards the bottom, which are on multiple areas on the circumference of the housing bore.

So, another $180 I dump into this build. Maybe this will somehow help someone either disassemble to inspect theirs to save $180, or diagnose that it should be replaced.




Old 09-04-2020, 06:43 AM
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Gordonm
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Are known to go bad. with that many miles on it I would just replace it. For 180 dollars you would hate to get it back in and 500 miles later have it go bad. To me it would be cheap insurance to replace and not have to worry about it again.
Old 09-04-2020, 11:31 AM
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Dutch08
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
Are known to go bad. with that many miles on it I would just replace it. For 180 dollars you would hate to get it back in and 500 miles later have it go bad. To me it would be cheap insurance to replace and not have to worry about it again.
Mine was just starting to leak 52K Easy for me to say its not my money, but at $180 bucks and the amount work to replace its a no brainer.
Old 09-04-2020, 01:32 PM
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JonnyCap
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Totally. I just did not see a discussion on disassembly and inspection with pictures. I generally do not like to throw perfectly good parts in the trash just because you're in there and might as well replace them (ex. use new flywheel bolts if there's no need). I'd imagine if someone did the Ranger method for keeping the clutch fluid clean from the start up to say 30k miles, it might be a waste to replace the slave if doing a clutch change.
Old 09-06-2020, 01:08 AM
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Dano523
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Unless you have a way to get into the slave to condition the cylinder walls both side for the seal, slave is toasted.



Truth is, you can get a Slave from A/C Delco or rockauto for around $100, and not worth the time screwing around trying to save the old slave.

Last edited by Dano523; 09-06-2020 at 01:10 AM.
Old 09-06-2020, 01:42 AM
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schpenxel
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Replace it. They can be had for more like $100. Not worth the risk.
Old 09-06-2020, 01:58 AM
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JonnyCap
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Maybe I wasn't clear. I am absolutely replacing this. I'm simply posting this to show what wear looks like in case someone wants to disassemble theirs to inspect, instead of always replacing it anytime they are in there. This was because in doing a search I was not able to find any pictures of actual wear.

Seems prices have changed since the last time you guys ordered. $177 is from Tick, which is just under gmpartsdirect's price, and most other vendors are over $200.
Old 09-06-2020, 08:04 PM
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Dano523
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Quick break down and Lux is how makes it to being with as the supply to both GM and AC Delco (and a few other suppliers). Hence Luk LSC449.

From here, either picked up by Ac Delco for slight mark up, or GM with a bigger mark up instead.

https://www.ebay.com/i/133510842804?...evt=1&mkcid=28

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