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For my LS2 build I used LS7 lifters when I did the TFS heads a few months ago with 1.8 RR and 228/232 TSP cam on a 112. I measured for new PR length several times to make sure correct and my valvetrain is as quiet as stock.
I ran the Caddy lifters back in 2009(?). I called at least 7 or 8 different shops on preload setting, and got 7 or 8 different opinions. They ranged from "it's all up to the engine builder to .025" from the bottom of the lifter, to .025" from zero lash, to.....I can't remember all the different recommendations, and still don't know for sure what spec they want for plunger position. I will say that they were an earlier batch, and that they also measured approx .001" smaller on the lifter body diameter than regular LS7 lifters. I wish you luck......
EDIT: I also want to add that even though LS7 lifters are OK, there isn't a lot of safety margin built in to them. I've never run Morels, or Johnsons. I'm currently running LS7 lifters, with dual springs, and the springs are spec'd at 165lbs seat/425lbs open. I have one lifter in there that bleeds down just a bit, and when cold starting for the first time on any given day, there's a lifter tick for 1-2 minutes(!) until it's totally pumped up. So I'm on the ragged edge.......
Well, the OEM LS lifters have a total internal plunger travel of .200" (two-hundred thousands) .. I would assume that the 'Caddy' lifters also would have the same internal plunger travel.
So, that gives you lots of leeway in selecting a preload .. The middle of plunger travel of course would be .100" (one-hundred thousands) preload.
Seems like most of the engine builders I have read about seem to like anywhere between .050" to .100"
BTW, on my stock LS3 lifters, I am using a pushrod that gets me .070" (seventy thousands) lifter preload. And the valvetrain is very quiet with my aftermarket cam and the .070" lifter preload.
I ran the Caddy lifters back in 2009(?). I called at least 7 or 8 different shops on preload setting, and got 7 or 8 different opinions. They ranged from "it's all up to the engine builder to .025" from the bottom of the lifter, to .025" from zero lash, to.....I can't remember all the different recommendations, and still don't know for sure what spec they want for plunger position. I will say that they were an earlier batch, and that they also measured approx .001" smaller on the lifter body diameter than regular LS7 lifters. I wish you luck......
EDIT: I also want to add that even though LS7 lifters are OK, there isn't a lot of safety margin built in to them. I've never run Morels, or Johnsons. I'm currently running LS7 lifters, with dual springs, and the springs are spec'd at 165lbs seat/425lbs open. I have one lifter in their that bleeds down just a bit, and when cold starting for the first time on any given day, there's a lifter tick for 1-2 minutes(!) until it's totally pumped up. So I'm on the ragged edge.......
lol I hate that, I never understood why it’s so hard to find the correct info. I’m sure they’re exactly the same as LS7 lifters as far as preload, around .070-.100 is fine.
it’s odd that almost all the threads I’ve read about those Caddy lifters are from like 2007-2009.
Originally Posted by Turbo6TA
Well, the OEM LS lifters have a total internal plunger travel of .200" (two-hundred thousands) .. I would assume that the 'Caddy' lifters also would have the same internal plunger travel.
So, that gives you lots of leeway in selecting a preload .. The middle of plunger travel of course would be .100" (one-hundred thousands) preload.
Seems like most of the engine builders I have read about seem to like anywhere between .050" to .100"
BTW, on my stock LS3 lifters, I am using a pushrod that gets me .070" (seventy thousands) lifter preload. And the valvetrain is very quiet with my aftermarket cam and the .070" lifter preload.
Yep I agree. What cam are you using? If I end up using the caddy lifters or ls7 lifters I’m gonna shoot for .070-.080 preload.
Got ya. I’m prob going with the BTR stage 2 but I was strongly considering something from cam motion. I’ve heard a lot of good things about their cams plus they seem to be quieter cams as far as valvetrain noise.
On a boosted engine, the intake charge is being forced into the cylinders, so, on a boosted engine, the intake duration normally don't need to be as much as in an NA engine ... and of course, with slightly less intake duration, the idle will be smoother.
I kept the lift to .585" just to be easier on the valvetrain, and I only spin the engine to 6,400 rpm.
If I was using a centrifugal supercharger, I would opt for maybe about a 114° LSA, but a PD supercharger like my Heartbeat SC works better with an LSA of around 118°
Yep good info. Only issue I have with this method while the motor is in the car is how the hell do you turn the crank? One time on my old C5 I removed all the plugs and found an offset box wrench that worked and allowed me to turn the crank but it was still pretty rough to do. What’s the best way to do it?
Get a metal paper clip and bend it into a 'U' shape ... Touch the two points as shown in the photo below. You can 'tap' the starter to anywhere you want the crankshaft to be.
You will get no fuel pressure or ignition spark, so you don't have to worry about the engine starting (and no need to remove the spark plugs or the plug wires).
Get a metal paper clip and bend it into a 'U' shape ... Touch the two points as shown in the photo below. You can 'tap' the starter to anywhere you want the crankshaft to be.
You will get no fuel pressure or ignition spark, so you don't have to worry about the engine starting (and no need to remove the spark plugs or the plug wires).
Easy Peasy ....
ahh I see… so maybe just have someone in the car tapping the starter while I watch the position of the rockers?
Nope ... nobody needs to 'tap' the starter button.
Just 'tap' that U shaped wire between those two contact points in the photo above until you get the crankshaft where you want it.
Oh sorry I see what you’re saying now. Thanks for the advice I didn’t know you could do that. Hopefully I won’t need to even worry about it but if I suspect a preload issue I’ll give it a try.
Yep good info. Only issue I have with this method while the motor is in the car is how the hell do you turn the crank? One time on my old C5 I removed all the plugs and found an offset box wrench that worked and allowed me to turn the crank but it was still pretty rough to do. What’s the best way to do it?
What I did was remove all the spark plugs and turned the bolt on the alternator pulley with a hex socket (M8 or M10) on a ratchet wrench. The belt sometimes slips, but you just apply some pressure on the belt on the alternator pulley with your free hand while turning the wrench.
What I did was remove all the spark plugs and turned the bolt on the alternator pulley with a hex socket (M8 or M10) on a ratchet wrench. The belt sometimes slips, but you just apply some pressure on the belt on the alternator pulley with your free hand while turning the wrench.
That might work if your C6 has a manual transmission, but the cars with the automatic transmission don't have an alternator pulley bolt ... the alternator pulley has a disengagement clutch inside of it which is covered by a smooth plastic cap (no access to a bolt).
I am retracting my recommendation of Morel lifters.
I swapped out my stock LS7 lifters in March 2022 for a set of Morel 7717's because of a possible roller bearing on the stock lifters going out. The Morels I put in did eliminate the noise confirming my suspicion.
Almost exactly 1 year later, I suspect one (or more) of the Morel lifter bearings is starting to fail. I have an even louder squeal/squeaking coming from inside the engine and sounds exactly like a failing lifter.
Researching online, there is quite a lot of rumor, speculation, talk, etc. as to whether Morel has been importing lifters from China or out sourcing lifter production. I don't know if this is true or not and it is actually unclear.
But going forward, I would not consider using anything less than the Chevy Performance Racing lifter.
I am putting Johnson 2110R's in my car to replace the failing Morels.
While were on the subject ill retract my recommendation on the Caddy lifters as well, though no failures they are currently louder than any ls7 lifter ive ever used... I think ill be revisiting it soon now that pushrods arent impossible to get.
08-10-2022, 11:01 AM
