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Keyless entry on a 92 issues.

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Old 06-23-2024, 10:01 PM
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DKlettke
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Default Keyless entry on a 92 issues.

I'm trying to add a keyless entry system (the Avital 2101L) into my car, but running into some issues I don't understand. I'm slowly adding it together bit by bit to make sure everything is working correctly but I'm stumped.

Here's the situation: I've got a relay using the unlock wire from the module for #86 and ground for #85. If I run a 12v through #30 my multimeter shows 12v on #87 when I use the module to unlock the door (something like 11 amp I think) . This is working correctly, but when I use the orange 12v hot line for #30 and the black unlock line for #87 I blow a fuse. The relay is rated for 40A is this too much or is that the upper limit it can handle? Also I am correct to say that the voltage going through 85->86 isn't anyway connected to 30->87?

BTW taking readings from the switch connections this is what I got:
Lock Unlock
Black 0 12
Grey 12 -12
Blue 12 0
Pink(ish) -12 12

Blue locks, black unlocks right? Grey and Pink must be for the passenger side.

Old 06-24-2024, 12:58 AM
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DKlettke
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Originally Posted by IHBD
2101 color:...........................Car color...............................

Grn/blk (#30 Lock)............... Black that goes towards the DRIVER door switch
Wht/Blk (#87a Lock).............Black that goes towards the PASSENGER door switch
Blu/Blk (#30 UNlock)............Lt Blue that goes towards the DRIVER door switch
Brn/Blk (#87a UNlock)..........Lt Blue that goes towards the PASSENGER door switch.
Pur/Black (87 Fused Power)..Orn wire on either door.
This is exactly what I needed to see. I didn't realize the module itself was a big relay for it or what #30 and #87 meant at that moment. The instructions said Green/black Lock #30 common "can directly interface with most electric power door lock systems drawing 30amps or less" I thought 30amps vs 87amps not relay posts. I was thinking grn/blck locks and blu/blk unlocks with a +12v run.
I'll have to go back and actually properly connect the wires, just had them on jaw clamps on the lock switch itself. BTW does the wires have to be severed or can you T them?
Old 06-26-2024, 02:13 AM
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DKlettke
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Hmmm what happened to the responses? I wasn't done looking through it all.

Anyways I got the doors to lock and unlock with the fob, but now I'm dealing with the alarm going off. Looking at the FSM, looks like it should also be sending a signal to the CCM on C4(grey)/C5(tan) lines. Anyone have any ideas?
Old 06-26-2024, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by DKlettke
Hmmm what happened to the responses? I wasn't done looking through it all.

Anyways I got the doors to lock and unlock with the fob, but now I'm dealing with the alarm going off. Looking at the FSM, looks like it should also be sending a signal to the CCM on C4(grey)/C5(tan) lines. Anyone have any ideas?
That poster @IHBD doesn't leave much up here!!! If you don't grab it quick it's gone. He might likely PM you for some 'Private Consulting' !
Old 06-26-2024, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by DKlettke
Looking at the FSM, looks like it should also be sending a signal to the CCM on C4(grey)/C5(tan) lines.
You can easialy verify that the CCM is receiving the signals on these lines: With a door open, the SECURITY light should flash. Door still open, lock the doors with the fob, SECURITY should go solid-on. UNlock with the fob, SECURITY light should again flash. If = YES, the CCM is receiving the signals correctly.

To fix the alarm 'problem': Connect the 2101 grn/blk (it may be grn/wht) Factory Alarm Disarm to the lt green wire going into either door. This will dis-arm the alarm with UNlock from the fob.

WVZR wouldn't have anyone to continuously pester if I stopped deleting my posts. I do it for him now. Was his post in this thread helpful to answering your question or solving your alarm issue?

Last edited by IHBD; 06-26-2024 at 12:53 PM.
Old 06-26-2024, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by IHBD
Was his post in this thread helpful to answering your question or solving your alarm issue?
Not directed to me BUT I'd say it was because you returned to the thread when you received the 'notification' that using @ with 'User ID' accomplishes.
Old 06-26-2024, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
Not directed to me BUT I'd say it was because you returned to the thread when you received the 'notification' that using @ with 'User ID' accomplishes.
Don't flatter yourself, Dave. I "returned to the thread" because its been a few days and I noticed it had moved up in the index again. Having responded earlier to the OP (where it appears my input was appreciated), and no one else had, I took a look again.

You had nothing to do with me "returning to the thread."
I have my notifications turned off. I never receive notifications. Same with private messages notifications.

WVZR is on my Ignore list. I only open the posts if they immediately follow mine because they're usually f'ing with me. Otherwise, I don't even look at them because there's usually nothing there. Like the posts in this thread.

You f'd up the notification anyway. Unless the "@" results in the link like this @WVZR-1 , it doesn't send the notification. @WVZR-1 doesn't.
Old 06-27-2024, 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by IHBD
You can easialy verify that the CCM is receiving the signals on these lines: With a door open, the SECURITY light should flash. Door still open, lock the doors with the fob, SECURITY should go solid-on. UNlock with the fob, SECURITY light should again flash. If = YES, the CCM is receiving the signals correctly.

To fix the alarm 'problem': Connect the 2101 grn/blk (it may be grn/wht) Factory Alarm Disarm to the lt green wire going into either door. This will dis-arm the alarm with UNlock from the fob.

WVZR wouldn't have anyone to continuously pester if I stopped deleting my posts. I do it for him now. Was his post in this thread helpful to answering your question or solving your alarm issue?
I was reading a thread from back in 2001 that said to lt green wire to the factory alarm disable so I spent the last hour or so working on that. Before I started cutting into wires I checked the voltage on the door lock (wht/blk) it's showing 12volts, the lt green wire for the factory disable is showing a mere 1/2 volt. Is that enough to signal the ccm to stop the alarm?

Also the security light is showing correct. CCM is receiving the correct info. So everything's good there

Last edited by DKlettke; 06-27-2024 at 12:36 AM.
Old 06-27-2024, 02:44 AM
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If you connect the 2101 lt grn/blk wire to the lt green wire going into either door, the factory alarm will disarm when the fob unlocks the doors. Or the fob releases the hatch.

The 2101 red/wht wire is the hatch release. Connect it to the small ga brown wire going to either door.
Old 06-27-2024, 03:57 AM
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Originally Posted by IHBD
If you connect the 2101 lt grn/blk wire to the lt green wire going into either door, the factory alarm will disarm when the fob unlocks the doors. Or the fob releases the hatch.

The 2101 red/wht wire is the hatch release. Connect it to the small ga brown wire going to either door.
It works! No more blaring horns. BTW at least for mine, there are two green wires, one is the for key and the other is for the mirror, just as a heads up for anyone else in the future working on this.
I'll deal with the lights/horn latter, just glad to close everything up.

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